My First Set of L-N Planes

[Keith Starosta]

I heard that there was a corner of the Creek where no 'lectricity was allowed, so I thought I'd check it out... :D

Through of series of fortunate events, my tool budget got bumped up a bit. To make a long story short, I finally got the chance to pick up the first (of hopefully many) set of bench planes in my tool collection. All three of them are Lie-Nielsen. In the collection is the No. 4 Smooth Plane, the Low Angle Jack Plane, and the Low Angle Block Plane. I've played with each of them for a few minutes, and have fallen in love with each of them. While they came out of the box ready to go, I'm still going to sharpen the iron's of each plane. I can't wait to improve my skills with these beauties!! :D

Now I just have to learn how to take care of them! :rolleyes:

- Keith

[mike holden]

Congratulations!
That is a well thought out beginner kit for handplanes.
Taking care of them: first thought is to get a rag and apply your favorite metal lubricant to it, then every time you go to put a plane away, keep your right hand on the tote (handle) and with the left run the rag across the sole (bottom) and sides.
Even the bronze one - altho mostly for fingerprints, it will also prevent verdigris (the green color that outside bronze statues turn).
Second thought is to get a bit of paraffin wax, if your wife cans food, then get a small chunk from her, otherwise get some at the grocery. Scribble a bit on the sole before use and you will find that the plane moves more smoothly across the wood.
The only concern about lubes on planes is if you use anything with silicone in it - the silicone CAN cause problems, so as long as you avoid silicones, you will be fine.
Enjoy making shavings! (why? because you CAN (grin))
Mike

[Keith Starosta]

Congratulations!
That is a well thought out beginner kit for handplanes.
Taking care of them: first thought is to get a rag and apply your favorite metal lubricant to it, then every time you go to put a plane away, keep your right hand on the tote (handle) and with the left run the rag across the sole (bottom) and sides.
Even the bronze one - altho mostly for fingerprints, it will also prevent verdigris (the green color that outside bronze statues turn).
Second thought is to get a bit of paraffin wax, if your wife cans food, then get a small chunk from her, otherwise get some at the grocery. Scribble a bit on the sole before use and you will find that the plane moves more smoothly across the wood.
The only concern about lubes on planes is if you use anything with silicone in it - the silicone CAN cause problems, so as long as you avoid silicones, you will be fine.
Enjoy making shavings! (why? because you CAN (grin))
Mike


Thanks, Mike!! I'm pretty happy. :D

Question about the wax...you mentioned paraffin wax. Is beeswax OK to use, or is there a problem with that?

- Keith

[Eddie Darby]

While they came out of the box ready to go, I'm still going to sharpen the iron's of each plane. I can't wait to improve my skills with these beauties!! :D
Now I just have to learn how to take care of them! :rolleyes:- Keith

http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?cat=515

And don't forget to read them a bedtime story every night before tucking them in!:D
I would recommend "The Little Plane That Could".


http://www.lie-nielsen.com/instructions.php

[Danny Thompson]

That's like taking a running start down the slippery slope! Nice mix.

[Mark Stutz]

Keith,
Enjoy the ride down this slope!:D It won't be long before you'll be talking about plow planes, shoulder planes, infills...:eek:.

As far as care, a lot depends on shop location, climate, etc, as to the propensity to rust. I have a basement shop that pretty much stays the same year round, so not a lot of rust propensity. I got the LN plane care kit years ago at a WW show, so I use the wax stick in the kit. I'm told that beeswax is a little stickier than paraffin, but many just use an old candle stub. I compulsively wipe down every plane with the Camelia oil befor leaving the shop for the day...never had rust problems. I keep rag saturated with it in a metal tin. At this point I rarely have to add oil to it. The "eraser" works well... I even use it on the cast iron surfaces of my..shhh...TS and BS.

Mark

[gary Zimmel]

Keith

Welcome to this slippery slope...

One word of caution. Your new planes will have the ability to multiply on there own. In a short time you will have more than you know what to do with. Get ready to build a large plane till.

Good score on the start of your new family.

[Raney Nelson]

Your new planes will have the ability to multiply on there own.

...and they have a habit of using your credit card when you're not looking, too.

[Joe Close]

Thanks, Mike!! I'm pretty happy. :D

Question about the wax...you mentioned paraffin wax. Is beeswax OK to use, or is there a problem with that?

- Keith

Nice starting collection. I did a simular thing. I had a stanley #5, cheapo from the borg store years ago. I added LN's to the inventory. I really like the LN's, they are world apart from the stanley.

I've been using Johnson's paste wax, (yellow can). I origionally bought the stuff to coat other metal tool surfaces in the shop, as rust prevention. Then one day I smeared a gob on my LN#7, wipped it down and went to work. I was amazed how slick the base became, like greased lake ice...

[Keith Starosta]

Thanks very much, guys!!

Another quick question...

I went out to the shop a little while ago, and noticed that after only two days in the shop, the jack plane had a couple of small surface rust spots on the sole!! :eek: :eek: I read on the L-N site that Camellia Oil is a vegatable-based oil. I don't currently have any of this oil, but want to protect my new planes straight away. I don't suppose that I can use a rag soaked with plain old veggie oil, could I? If not, what is another like-oil that I can use immediately?

Thanks!!

Keith

[Jim Becker]

{jealousy}Congrats, Keith...that's a very nice start and some excellent tools!{/jealousy}

[Don C Peterson]

I use beeswax all the time on the soles of my planes. Works great. I use Boeshield when I put them up to prevent rust.

I don't know if Boeshield contains silicone or not, but I think that issue is a bit overblown for planes. Even if you have some silicone on your plane sole, it will come off quickly and be removed from your wood by subequent passes of the plane. The end result is no silicone on your wood. This is why I use beeswax to treat the plane soles while I'm working though.

[Steve Clardy]

Well looks like Keith has done blipped off the cliff and headed down hill.;)

I have the camelia oil. Quit using it. Still got rust spots after using it.
It dries like sticky glue. ugh

[mike holden]

Beeswax should work just fine. I use Parrafin because it is readily available in the supermarket/grocery in the canning section. Around here (SE Michigan), beeswax is hard to find - had to go to the state fair to find some. I use the beeswax to make a finish though, not on my planes - one block of parrafin is a lifetime supply (grin)
Mike
Dont obsess about them though, planes are quite sturdy, and short of dropping them, not prone to much harm.

[Keith Starosta]

{jealousy}Congrats, Keith...that's a very nice start and some excellent tools!{/jealousy}

Thanks, Jim!! I used the smoother about 30 minutes ago on the rough edge of a piece of cherry. Five quick passes, and tha edge was glass smooth. :cool: Maybe that big Grizzly jointer doesn't have to be so far up the wish list after all! :D

I just downloaded David Charlesworth's updated shooting board plans. :D

- Keith:D

[Doug Shepard]

Well you've been sucked in now. That LA Jack was my first really good plane. After that they started multiplying like bunnies.

[Mike Cutler]

Keith

Nice choices, you're really going to like those planes.
That little 102 is a real handy pocket tool. I always have my 102, and 103 with me in the shop.

Nice gloat. Thanks for sharing it with us.

[Henk Marais]

[quote=Keith Starosta;879514]I heard that there was a corner of the Creek where no 'lectricity was allowed, so I thought I'd check it out... :D

Actualy we love elecricity. How els will we be able to stand late at night and quietly plane a peace of beutifull wood untill it is as smooth as silk.:D
it is dangerous to use even hand tools in the dark.;)

Nice planes!

[Chris Kennedy]

I would recommend against the camellia oil as well. I have some and I have quit using it as well.

I live in coastal Virginia and there is a large propensity to rust on your tools around here. I highly recommend everything that has been recommended about wiping down your tools. I also recommend plane sacks:

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=3863

(You can also get them at LV, but it may seem a little odd to have LN planes in sacks proudly displaying a Veritas logo, although my LN #4 doesn't appear to be any worse for wear for it.)

Enjoy your planes.

Cheers,

Chris

[Mark Stutz]

Chris,
I'd be interested to know what kind of problem you had with the Camelia oil. Did it just not work for you? or ssomething else? As I mentioned, in my situation, that is all I've ever used.

To the OP, I think you just have to figure out what works best in your particular shop...Camelia oil, paste wax, Boeshield, and probably some other solutions as well.

Mark

[Brian Kent]

[quote=Keith Starosta;879514]I heard that there was a corner of the Creek where no 'lectricity was allowed, so I thought I'd check it out... :D

Actualy we love elecricity. How els will we be able to stand late at night and quietly plane a peace of beutifull wood untill it is as smooth as silk.:D
it is dangerous to use even hand tools in the dark.;)

Nice planes!

Yes, but if the plane is set just right you'll only shave off a thousandth of an inch of skin at a time!;)

[Tristan Raymond]

I also recommend plane sacks:

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=3863



Cheers,

Chris

Last time I checked, the LN sacks were actually the cheapest. Since you're already paying shipping it's also a good time to get a second blade for the LA Jack, and some Camellia oil if you go that route.

[Doug Hobkirk]

Is Minwax "Paste Finishing Wax" the same as "paste wax"? Can I use it on planes and TS tops?

[Hank Knight]

Is Minwax "Paste Finishing Wax" the same as "paste wax"? Can I use it on planes and TS tops?


Yes and yes.

[Chris Kennedy]

Chris,
I'd be interested to know what kind of problem you had with the Camelia oil. Did it just not work for you? or ssomething else? As I mentioned, in my situation, that is all I've ever used.

To the OP, I think you just have to figure out what works best in your particular shop...Camelia oil, paste wax, Boeshield, and probably some other solutions as well.

Mark

Mark,

When I lived in northwest Pennsylvania, the camellia oil worked okay. I sometimes found the plane a little sticky, but it didn't rust. When I moved to Tidewater Virginia, though, it just couldn't handle the humidity, I guess. I've used Boeshield, though I am not wild about coating my tools with it. I have found the sacks to be one of the best protections.

Cheers,

Chris

[Dave Anderson NH]

I'm a confirmed user of the 2 step process for protecting my tools. I start out with a coating of Boeshield and after it dies I buff it up fully. Since I find that Boeshield doesn't slide very well I follow up with a spray coating of Topcote, let it dry, and but it up too. This provides both great protection and a slick surface. Down the road the Topcote wears and then just a slight additonal application brings it back. It's a little time consuming the first time yu do it to a bunch of tools, but the slight touchups are quick and easy.