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Randall Hansen
06-24-2008, 12:36 PM
I got a long piece of 13" wide 3/4" plyboo from a friend, cut into 1.5" strips, and glued it into something resembling an end grain cutting board. It's a little rough, the strips aren't exactly the same width: I used my Festool saw, since I don't have a table saw yet. The board's about 13" x 24".

So now I have the perfect reason to buy a plane. I figure I'd spend at least that much money in sandpaper, working away at that bamboo :) I'm not sure what type of plane is best. I don't want to spend an arm or a leg, and don't feel like I know enough to go hunting around garage sales looking for a good old one.

I don't know much about planes, but this seems like a good place to start. Any advice?

Jim Koepke
06-24-2008, 1:02 PM
If this is all end grain, you have one of the hardest jobs to give a plane.

Narrow end grain on the end of a board is hard enough and takes care to not cause the edges to split.

A large area of end grain going every which way is a challenge.

All that said, it might be better to make your decision based on what you want to do in the future.

My shop does not have any Bevel Up, Low Angle smoothers. This sounds like a situation that one of those may be the best answer, but I can not speak from experience on this.

My approach would most likely start with one of my low angle block planes. The size would depend on if this is parallel strips or if it is a checker board layout. It would be held at an angle to the direction of planning. Care would be taken to keep it from running off the edge. The edge would likely be "blocked in" before starting. "Blocked in" is just a fancy way to say chamfered all around. It helps to prevent tear out.

I might also try a small smoothing plane with as sharp a blade as could be honed. This would also be held skewed to the direction of attack.

The high points would be worked first, and the blades set to take the thinest cuts possible.

A good sharp chisel may also come into play.

Hopefully others will have good ideas on this.

Good luck,

jim

Don C Peterson
06-24-2008, 1:05 PM
Far be it from me to discourage you from sliding down that slope, but I have never tried to hand plane Bamboo. It seems like Bamboo wouldn't respond well to planing since it is so fiberous, but then again it might work fine.

As for which plane is the "best" I assume you are asking about type/size rather than brand. The answer to that question depends on what you want to do with it. But since you are wanting to replace sanding with a plane, I'd say a #4 or #4 1/2 smoother is your best bet.

An intriguing option is to go with one of the LN or LV low angle smoothers (the old Stanley versions tend to cost more than buying new). These planes are versitile because it is relatively easy to change the effective cutting angle of the iron. Many people buy several irons and sharpen them with different angles and just change the blades out as desired. With a standard bench plane, you either need to mess with back bevels or buy different frogs to get different cutting angles.

That's a quick overview, I'm sure others will have more input...

Robert Rozaieski
06-24-2008, 1:56 PM
Bamboo certainly planes very well along the grain (that is how bamboo fishing rods are made), however, end grain might be tough. Aren't bamboo cutting boards usually long grain style boards? I don't think I've ever seen an end grain bamboo cutting board. Hardwood yes, but not bamboo. At any rate, I would think a plane with a low bedding angle and a very sharp blade would be best. It will likely be tough to plane so you will want to keep the blade extremely sharp at all times.

Joel Goodman
06-24-2008, 3:21 PM
If this is bamboo plywood are you concerned about the type of glue used in the factory -- is it foodsafe?

Johnny Kleso
06-24-2008, 4:40 PM
You might want to try some 50 grit sand paper..

Like others said not the best wood to learn on, you can try buying a old No.5 Stanley off eBay and buy a replacement blade from www.stanleytools.com (http://www.stanleytools.com) but you also need shapening supplies with your new or used plane..

Google "sacry sharp" as its a good method to start with....

@ Stanley you want Support> Parts and Service
This is direct link to plane blades
The double blade (blade and chip breaker) seems like the best deal
http://www.stanleytoolparts.com/beplcu.html

Randall Hansen
06-24-2008, 4:49 PM
If this is bamboo plywood are you concerned about the type of glue used in the factory -- is it foodsafe?

That's a good question. I know the Titebond III I'm using is food-safe, but I don't know about the factory glue. I'll see what I can find out.

For the rest, Dad always said, "Use the right tool for the job." I think I'll attack this first with some rough paper and see what happens, rather than get ambitious with a plane.

Mark Stutz
06-24-2008, 8:59 PM
Randall,
I would really encourage you to get a plane and discover the joys of handplaning. I think it will take your work to a new level. There is a learning curve, though, and this is not the place to start! I fear it would forever discourage you from picking up another plane! You've made the right choice. Heck, even the spinning crowd refers to the "50 grit gouge"!:D

Mark

Randall Hansen
06-24-2008, 9:24 PM
Randall,
I would really encourage you to get a plane and discover the joys of handplaning. I think it will take your work to a new level. There is a learning curve, though, and this is not the place to start! I fear it would forever discourage you from picking up another plane! You've made the right choice. Heck, even the spinning crowd refers to the "50 grit gouge"!:D


Oh yeah, it's on my list. I buy new tools as I need them for things, as I find that current tools limit what I can do. Maybe I'll need a plane for the crib, that'll be all solid wood ... :D