Case for straight edge

[Chuck Saunders]

Hopefully when my Starrett straight edge arrives again today from Amazon, this one will not be damaged. If that is the case, I want to keep it that way. I thought I would make a case for it out of two boards, one routed out for the straight edge and the other hinged and latched as a lid.

With regards to corrosion, Is there a would choice that is preferred or that should be avoided? What other steps would help to avoid rust?

[Spencer Hochstetler]

I would keep it coated with Boeshield T9.

[Jeff Duncan]

Don't know about preferred wood, but I would keep it in the special paper that it comes wrapped in. That should help against corrosion along with a good coating as previously mentioned.
JeffD

[Chuck Saunders]

Thanks for the suggestions. I plan on oil and the paper. I don't want to select a wood that might have bad reactions to steel. i am thinking that white oak might be a problem (all oaks may be a problem due to the tannins ). Red oak might also be a problem due to the porosity, as it could get oily on the outside. I am leaning towards mahogany or walnut or hard maple.

[Jamie Buxton]

It probably isn't just plain steel. Rust would compromise the accuracy, so tools like that are often stainless steel, or at least nickel-plated.

[Greg Sznajdruk]

Bought on of these aluminum straight edges, corrosion not a big issue. Keep it in the shipping tube it came in.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=50074&cat=1,240,45313 (http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=50074&cat=1,240,45313)


Greg

[Chuck Saunders]

I couldn't say Jamie, Starrett just says #385 Steel Straight Edge

[Randal Stevenson]

Whatever you build, you could use some of those silicone gel packs that come in everything, or an old machinists trick, camphor blocks (have to get from a pharmacist).

[Spencer Hochstetler]

you could use some of those silicone gel packs that come in everythingKeep in mind that the silica gel will be hydrated within days (and thereafter, useless) if the box isn't tightly sealed.

[Chuck Saunders]

Well, the replacement straight edge arrived and appears in good condition. I will say that Amazon did a porrer job of packing this one than they did the first. I really do wonder about the packers they have.

[Doug Shepard]

I've been thinking of making a couple cases for steel straightedges too, but I've been thinking more sort of scabbard affairs with a cap of some sort rather than hinged boxes. I was thinking of dishing out 2 halves, lining the channel with leather, then gluing the halves together to form the case. What I'm wondering about is this: I was thinking that a light coat of fine oil on the straight edge would transfer to the leather over time and eventually be rather permanently saturated. So just putting it in the case would coat the SE. But might this be something that eventually just becomes a slimy mess or does this sound feasible if I dont overdo the oil?

[Jacob Reverb]

I would use that vapor barrier paper they use to pack guns in. I'm not sure how long it gives off its corrosion-blocking vapors, but you might want to check with Brownells. If they don't sell it, I'm sure they know who does.

[Rod Sheridan]

I have a steel straightedge that is 30 years old.

I store it in a level case with anti-rust paper, and keep it clean and oiled. No problems so far.........Rod.

[Jeff Duncan]

Just curious as to how they packed it that it got damaged the first time? I just bought one a couple months ago from a different online retailer, (cheaper price), and it was packed very well. The straightedge itself should be secured to a piece of solid wood and wrapped in cardboard by Starrett, which will keep it safe from most "normal" handling in transit. And then it was wrapped in another layer of cardboard by the retailer.
I like the idea of using a level case, simple and cheap, I may have to do that for mine.
JeffD

[Ken Garlock]

Hi Chuck. When I bought my 36" Starrett straight edge from Garrett Wade, it was damaged when I received it - it looked like it had been dropped on one corner. Garrett Wade was quite good about exchanging it for a new one.

I built an oak case for my straight edge. It is just two oak boards with a piano hinge on the back and a two little latches on the front. The SE lays in a router-made recess. The interior is covered with flocked contact paper. I glued in a couple short ribbons to act as "lifter outers" to get the SE up and out of the recess. The finish is good old Waterlox.

My shop is air conditioned, so moisture is not an issue for me. If you feel you have a moisture problem, get some of the anti tarnish paper from Lie Nielsen in which they wrap their planes.

[glenn bradley]

I keep mine in a fitted tube in my home office. I store my shellac in there too.

[Chuck Saunders]

I will say that Amazon was very quick to get a replacement sent out. I was just surprised that the Starrett box (cardboard wrapped around the corrosion paper wrapped around the straight edge) was placed in a big box of air pillows. Very similar to the way that the Bessy clamps are shipped. I find it odd because they are not skimping on packing, just not packing properly. I don't have a problem with Amazon but it saddens me to see such waste.

I agree that the best care is to make sure that it is kept clean and oiled. I like the idea of the lifting ribbons.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

My starrett depth gauge came in a pine french fitted case.

I don't think they did more than stain the inside.

[Ron Knapp]

Mine came with the same type of Ferro-Pak paper that Lie-Nielsen used to wrap their planes. I keep mine in the house which is climate controlled rather then the workshop. I have had the Starrett for at least threee years and have had no problems with rust.