Tool Sharpening

[Jim Onofrio]

Ok, I have a feeling I'm going to sound dumb here. I could use some advice on the proper equipment to sharpen chisels, planes, etc. There seems to be an amazing variety of different sharpening systems, Jigs, stones etc. out there. I get dizzy just trying to sort through and understand them. Can anyone recommend a decent sharpening system that will at least get me pointed in the right direction? Thanks y'all!

ohhh, Maybe this should be a different thread, but, is there any recommendations regarding a good material for making Zero clearance table inserts for my table saw? Thanks again!

[Joel Goodman]

Do a search on Neaderthal Haven here on Sawmill Creek and you'll find lots of options. Also look at Derek Cohen's website http://www.inthewoodshop.com and you'll find some more info.

[Jamie Buxton]

I use most any kind of wood for the table saw insert --- whatever happens to be in the scrap bin when the old one is used up. I've used baltic birch plywood, maple lumber, sapele lumber -- you name it. They all work okay. I like to put a splitter pin in the insert. Here's a thread about it: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=19664&highlight=insert

[Gerry Musson]

For years I used the "scary sharp" method with sandpaper on glass. Then I decided to get a system that would allow me to do my sharpening faster and easier. Like you I was somewhat overwhelmed by the number of systems, wet and dry. Finally due to budget constraints and recommendations on this and other forums I bought the Worksharp 3000 dry grinding systems. I wasn't disappointed. It allows me to sharpen my chisles and planes and my carving and turning tools quickly, accurately and with easy repeatability.

I suggest you carefully consider your needs and budget when making a decision on a system suitable to your particular needs but for myself and many others the Worksharp has been the answer.

[Peter Quinn]

For my simple needs not being a hand tool intensive wood worker, I use a wood craft slow speed 8 grinder and japanese water stones ranging from 800 grit to 8000 grit, with stops at 1200, 4000 and 6000. I have a few 200-400 grit coarse stones for fixing problems. I use a couple of simple angle guides for consistency. I also have a few pieces of 3/8" tempered glass to which I attach PSA backed silicone carbide paper for lapping planes flat. This set up works for me.

For ZCI's I use 1/2" plywood or mdf and 1/4" #20 hex cap screws (the little headless black jobbies available at most good hardware stores) for height adjustment. I drill the holes and the inserts create their own thread on the way in. I bought one leecraft phenolic insert to use as a template for making my own. At $20 each, I cannot afford to buy a phenolic insert for each angle or dado setup I want a ZCI for, so its shop made all the way.

I cut the blanks close to size on the BS, then flush trim using the leecraft as a template on the router table. I raise a dado blade into the insert before raising a 10" as you need a kerf on the underside of the insert for the blade to fit into or the insert wont go into its hole. I usually make 5-6 at a time as long as I have the BS and router table set up for it.

[Brian Penning]

1 word -WorkSharp!

[glenn bradley]

I lack the "sharpening gene" and like those who cannot carry a tune no matter how hard they practice, I stink at sharpening no matter how hard I practice. My original solution was the scary sharp system using the Veritas MK-II guide. Bliss and nirvana my friend. Now in my laziness I have gotten the WorkSharp 3000 which is wonderful after a bit of setup. I still use the scary sharp stuff for honing and final work.

[Chris Kennedy]

I use the Veritas Mk. II along with Norton waterstones. All in all, the setup probably costs the same amount as a Worksharp, but I defrayed a fair bit of the cost by asking for the stones as Christmas and birthday presents. Personally, I find it nice to end the day in the shop with a bit of sharpening. Bit of a Zen moment as I run the plane irons over the stones.

[Joe Scharle]

1 word -WorkSharp!
That's the one.

[Mike Thomas]

What about the Tormek system. After years of using water stones and other stuff I found a used Tormek with all the attachments for $250. For me, it is a joy to use and much quicker and easier than by hand. I highly recommend the Tormek system.

[Bob Noles]

Worksharp 3000 here and love it. I have had about every sharpening system and device made move thru my shop at one time or other. I have found absolute satisfaction with the Worksharp and a set of 2 oil stones with strop.

[John Sanford]

Just as an FYI, I recently stumbled across the WorkSharp system (by the same folks who brought us Drill Doctor) and was very impressed, except for one quirk. Maximum width of the blade being sharpened is 2". Not enough for some of the big planes. So, being a nosy consumer, I e-mailed the folks at Pro Tool Mfg about this limitation.

Here is their response:

Hi John,

Thank you for your interest in the Work Sharp 3000. We are currently
working on an attachment that will allow for the sharpening of larger
plane blades. I believe it will be coming out during the fourth quarter
of this year, or the first quarter of next year. The attachment will be
able to sharpen blades up to 3 inches wide.

If you have any more questions, please let me know.

Ben


Once its out, a Work Sharp 3000 will be going on my list of Future Gloats.

[Ron Breton]

I'm curious if anyone has tried other brands of 6" PSA sandpaper on the Worksharp? I like the machine but I find that due to only using a small portion of the paper, it gets used up quickly. I find the sandpaper for the Woksharp very pricey.

Cheers

[Gerry Musson]

I'm curious if anyone has tried other brands of 6" PSA sandpaper on the Worksharp? I like the machine but I find that due to only using a small portion of the paper, it gets used up quickly. I find the sandpaper for the Woksharp very pricey.

Cheers

Ron, I agree that the Worksharp paper is very pricey. I tried some from the local hardware. Other than having to cut the centre hole, no problems. I have since found some on line , 100 pieces for $40. ( www.sandpaper.ca ) Available in grits from 40 to 220. Still looking for the higher grits.

[Ron Breton]

Thanks Gerry. I'm going to order some right now.

[Wilbur Pan]

The answer is: they all work (waterstones, oil stones, sandpaper on glass), as long as you pick one and stick with it long enough to get good experience.

Having said that, I use waterstones to sharpen plane blades, chisels, and other straight edge tools. I don't use a honing jig for this. For turning tools, and to set/change bevel angles on straight edge tools, I use a Tormek.

[Ken Massingale]

Ron, I agree that the Worksharp paper is very pricey. I tried some from the local hardware. Other than having to cut the centre hole, no problems. I have since found some on line , 100 pieces for $40. ( www.sandpaper.ca ) Available in grits from 40 to 220. Still looking for the higher grits.
get Micromesh 6" disks directly from the manufacturer (https://www.micro-surface.com)

[Joe Scharle]

get Micromesh 6" disks directly from the manufacturer (https://www.micro-surface.com)

It's seems to be one of those sites that say "If you don't know what we call it, go somewhere else!"
Little help please?
Joe

[Steve Schoene]

I'm a fan of oil stones, and definately believe that honing can be done without the added time and expense of jigs. I've shown a like for an extensive discussion of how this sharpening can be done. It works whether you use oil stones or water stones. It was written by my former instructor Maurice Fraser a fine Craftsman who taught at the Craft Students League in Manhattan. The first session for beginners was sharpenig, and by the end of a 3 hour evening class even people who had never held a chisel of any kind were able to achieve a shaving sharp chisel.

http://www.antiquetools.com/sharp/

The only thing missing in the link is Maurice's subtle sense of humor.

[Ken Massingale]

It's seems to be one of those sites that say "If you don't know what we call it, go somewhere else!"
Little help please?
Joe
No argument there about their site, Joe.

Try here (https://www.micro-surface.com/default.cfm?page_id=96&start=46&storeid=1&Cat_Display=G).

[ernie henshaw]

Ron, I agree that the Worksharp paper is very pricey. I tried some from the local hardware. Other than having to cut the centre hole, no problems. I have since found some on line , 100 pieces for $40. ( www.sandpaper.ca (http://www.sandpaper.ca) ) Available in grits from 40 to 220. Still looking for the higher grits.
higher grit paper up to 2000 can be purchased at any automotive body shop supply store.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I use the Tormek system. I tried (from long ago) oil stones, (too messy), water stones (better), scary sharp (sandpaper is expensive and slow). I have not used other power methods. Many here like the Wolverine.
IMO if you use gouges and chisels, the Tormek is the way to go. The Wolverine is awesome for gouges, and the WorkSharp is awesome for flat chiisels, but they not so great for sharpening the other. Plus, the Tormek can sharpen virtually anything in your whole house. Not messy. Its quiet, I sharpen tools in the house watching TV. Make the LOML happy after sharpening her kitchen knives.

My .02.