Ran over the router cord..

[Mark Vaughn]

I was cutting a circle out with the router and came back around and ran the cord straight over.. Anybody know who fixes things like this? It is hardwired to the router unfortunately unlike my Dewalt. Could i just splice the wires back together myself and wrap it with electrical tape? or is this unsafe. Thanks so much

[Randal Stevenson]

You can strip back the wires, and solder them back to the new, just make sure you slide on some heat shrink tubing first. (much better then electrical tape). That spot will not be as flexible as before, but should work fine.


Or, put an end on the cord there. Then use a short extension cord.

[Rob Russell]

... just make sure you slide on some heat shrink tubing first ...

Just make sure you use electrical heat shrink tubing (HST). There is HST which isn't rated as insulation for electrical connections.

[Jerome Hanby]

Just to be a little safer, if you make your splices on each wire where they wont overlap the splices on the others you have less likely wood of causing a short if your insulation "fails".

It would also be a good opportunity to put a really short cord on the router and use an extension cord like someone else suggested. Makes storage easier!

[Lee Schierer]

I found the lowest cost replacement for power cords on hand tools is to go to the store and buy a heavy duty extension cord. For what ever reason you can buy the extension cords cheaper than lengths of wire and plugs alone. Cut off the receptacle end and wire the rest of the cord with the plug into the hand tool. This gives you a new cord with a molded plug. This can be somewhat harder if the manufacutrer molded the strain relief by the tool into the cord.

[Wade Lippman]

I cut my miter saw cord once; felt like a moron, but these things happen.

Spliced them together wrapped with electrical tape, good as new. I soldered them, but that isn't really necessary if you don't know how. The suggestion to make them at different points was a good one.

[Anthony Whitesell]

I would use 4 pieces of shrink tubing. One for each conductor and a fourth to cover the first three (just don't forget that the last one has to be slid on the cord half first, DAMHIKT).

Or just install a new plug end at the cut.

P.S. I've cut the extension cord end off three times with the hedge trimmer.

[Larry Fox]

I do exactly what Lee does. I have also found that computer power-cords work well also and I seem to have quite a few of them for whatever reason so theya re convenient as well.

[Mark Vaughn]

so do they sell plug ends at Home depot? or I can just buy an extention cord and cut the head off and use that?? does the extention cord have to be a certain kind or just the heaviest duty one i can find?? thanks

[Jerome Hanby]

so do they sell plug ends at Home depot? or I can just buy an extention cord and cut the head off and use that?? does the extention cord have to be a certain kind or just the heaviest duty one i can find?? thanks

I'd think any extension cord that would have been suitable to use with the router would be fine to slice up as a replacement cord.

[Russ Filtz]

I pretty much always cut off the cords to my power tools and make them into "pigtails". Much easier to store that way, no winding cords each time. Unless this is a stationary machine, you typically run an extension out to it anyway. Buy a high quality plug at the Borg and re-wire!

[Tony Cox]

I do exactly what Lee does. I have also found that computer power-cords work well also and I seem to have quite a few of them for whatever reason so theya re convenient as well.


Exactly what I do. I have boxes of computer cords. All different gauges. I just keep my stock up by keeping some from here at work. I have so many cords that I couldn't use them in a lifetime.

Tony

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

HA HA HA HA
I have done that with circular saws belt sanders but I'm still working my way up to cutting through a router cord.

I see it as an opportunity to make my cord longer by splicing a length of some high grade three wire multi-strand in the cut. Solder it and tape it and forget about it. If any one asks you about it tell 'em you were sick of the short cord and wanted it longer.

[Lee Koepke]

Exactly what I do. I have boxes of computer cords. All different gauges. I just keep my stock up by keeping some from here at work. I have so many cords that I couldn't use them in a lifetime.

Tony
wow. never thought about that. i have a inherent aversion to tossing perfectly good cords ... now i have a use for them.

i have a circ saw that i cut thru manymanymany years ago, and its time to replace the job-site splice i did then ...

[Brian Smith3]

I agree with Russ. Cut it short and don't bother with the solder and heat shrink.

As a kid when I used to work construction I "pig tailed" all my tools and then used neon extension cords. Now in the shop I use an extension reel connected to the ceiling with my tools.

On a job site you will get made fun of by using neon extensions, but you will always know which cord is yours in a room full of extension cords, and you will be able to see it in a room that's not ideally lighted. Anyway, I use (Hubbell) Bryant or Arrow Hart 5266 plugs because I prefer round ones. Leviton also makes some yellow ones, but those are typically rectangular. I pay about $3ea in a box of 10 Bryants (more for Arrow Hart).

[Tony Cox]

wow. never thought about that. i have a inherent aversion to tossing perfectly good cords ... now i have a use for them.

i have a circ saw that i cut thru manymanymany years ago, and its time to replace the job-site splice i did then ...

They are perfectly good replacement cords. You just have to watch the size. Some of the super cheap computer stuff uses really small gauge cords.

See if you can find someone in the technology field. I guarantee you they have boxes of these things. Have them grab you a handful so you can have some on hand.

I also like the "cut it short" approach. I have done that with some of my tools. It is nice when it comes to storage.

Tony

[Don Abele]

Mark, have you contacted the manufacturer? I cut my Craftsman circular saw cord (with built-in/attached strain relief). It cost $10 (shipped) to replace.

On the other hand, I also collect cords (I have a HUGE Rubbermaid container full of them). My favorite ones - vacuum cleaner cords. My kids run it over monthly. I recently got a hook up with a military barracks that was replacing all of the vacuums. I cut the cords off about 20 so I'm set for a little while :D

Be well,

Doc

[Bruce Benjamin]

A few years back I was in desperate need for a specific router bit for a job I was doing. The customer was in a hurry and I didn't have the bit. It wasn't available in my town and I didn't want to wait for one to be shipped to me. I drove 2 1/2 hours round trip to get the bit I needed and paid a premium for it. Ok, at least I have what I need now...

I used the bit for the short routing job and it worked out great. I'm usually pretty careful about letting my router come to a stop before picking it up off of the work piece. Well, this time after finishing the cut I lifted the router away while it was still spinning. It was off but the bit hadn't stopped. BANG! SPARK! $#!^...Not only did I cut the power cord to the router but I destroyed the brand new bit I spent so much on. :mad: At least I finished the job. It not only burned a few chunks out of the bit but it also welded the bearing. The cord was only attached by the insulation.

I fixed it by soldering the wires back together and coated them with Liquid Electrical Tape. I then covered that with a piece of heat shrink tubing. And as another poster has already stated, I too forgot to put the heat shrink over the wire the first time.:o So I got to do it all twice!

The cord works fine, it's very well protected and it's plenty strong enough. I like a longer cord but I suppose the pig tail method will work well for some people too.

Regarding the use of extension cords as replacement cords, I think it's a great way to save some money. I had to add a cord to my 220v jointer and the cheapest place I found to buy the cord was Harbor Freight. I have several of their cords and they work fine. I use 12/3 cords and they're dirt cheap when they're on sale and they are still cheaper then the cords at the Borg when they're not on sale. For the 220v jointer cord I did have to add a 220v plug but it was cheaper to buy the 25' HF cord and cut the ends off than it would've been to buy the bulk wire from the spools at the Borg. Much cheaper.

Bruce

[Gordon Harner]

I realize that many of us are not working where OSHA has jurisdiction. However if you are splicing cords is not permitted. A nicked cord can be taped and connectors replaced. But splices are verboten.

[Bruce Benjamin]

I realize that many of us are not working where OSHA has jurisdiction. However if you are splicing cords is not permitted. A nicked cord can be taped and connectors replaced. But splices are verboten.


OSHA can have my spliced power cord when they can pry it from my cold, dead, electrocuted fingers!;):rolleyes::D

Bruce

[Richard Spain]

I tend to go overboard with electrical but here is the method I prefer for cable splicing. Cut the black, white, and green wires in a stepped pattern with about tow inches from one to the next. The spacing from the first to the last will be four inches. If the black wire is the longest on this side of the cord then the black wire on the other side will be the shortest to match the same pattern in reverse. Slide the heat shrink on all three wires and the cable. Next take a non-insulated butt splice and crimp the wires securely and when all are done add a touch of solder to the small whole in the butt splice. When the solder is cool to the touch dab a bit of liquid electrical tape on the wires at the end of each splice and slide the heat shrink over the wires. Shrink them down and do the same for the cable heat shrink.
Buy using butt splices, solder, and liquid tape the splice strong and water tight.

[Jay Scott]

I tend to go overboard with electrical but here is the method I prefer for cable splicing. Cut the black, white, and green wires in a stepped pattern with about tow inches from one to the next. The spacing from the first to the last will be four inches. If the black wire is the longest on this side of the cord then the black wire on the other side will be the shortest to match the same pattern in reverse.

Just a bit of trivia, staggering your splices is called a Westinghouse Splice. This technique pre-dates the internet, so you won't find it much with google, but it's a common term among old telephone guys.

PS- First Post!

[Bruce Wrenn]

Lowes stocks replacement power cords. Just a molded plug on one end, and striped leads on the other. I keep a couple on hand, just in case.

[Randal Stevenson]

Just make sure you use electrical heat shrink tubing (HST). There is HST which isn't rated as insulation for electrical connections.


I've never seen any that wasn't, thanks for the correction. What is it used for?


I do know that there are some better area's to buy a better grade of heat shrink. I prefer a ham radio supply store for mine. But autoparts and radio shack do carry it as well.