Buying metal for an infill plane project

[Graham Wilson]

I've decided to try and make myself an infill shoulder and a chariot plane. I have a copy of Jim Kingshott's book out from the library and he describes the use of mild steel 3/16'' - 5/32'' thick in his dovetailed planes (soles & sides). He uses '16G' brass for the sides of some planes. The blades are listed at 5/16'' thick tool steel. I'll also need some 3/16'' brass or miled steel rod. Any thoughts on where I could order a small amount of metal from?

[Zahid Naqvi]

McMaster Carr is one online option, they have a lot of variations for different kinds of metals.

[Doug Shepard]

I've gotten brass, aluminum, and some galv. steel from these guys
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?id=83&step=2

[Graham Wilson]

The biggest problem I'm finding is that I really do not know metal products. Should the sides/soles be 'low-carbon' steel? I assume the material listed as tool steel (A1/O2) does not come hardened. When I look for 5/32'' steel plate I find:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=91209&stc=1&d=1214243006

Is the first item what I'd use to make the sole/sides? Looking at the price of brass, I think I'll stick to 'gun metal' metal planes until I have some confidence in what I'm doing.

[Pedro Reyes]

No need for tool steel, too much work and overkill for anything other than a blade in this case.

Just get 1018 or A36, both should work (onlinemetals has manageable quantities). Cold rolled (which 1018 normally is) has a better finish usually but it is a bit more expensive, A36 (usually hot rolled) is cheaper but carbon contents and impurities are not as controlled as with cold rolled. In your case 1018 should be marginally better (IMHO).

hope this helps.

/p

[Raney Nelson]

I have used both O1 and mild steel ( I used 1018 I believe) for infills, and would never use mild steel again. The primary issue is that it warped somewhat during construction. I later talked about this with a very accomplished infill maker, who said that he had additionally found that mild steel continues to 'move' sor at least a year after forming. Additionally, I think O1 is infinitely easier to dovetail - you can saw waste 'kerfs' which you can then chip out with a dull chisel, or even a screwdriver, very easily - if you use mild steeel, it isn't hard enough to do this...it just bends, and is tougher to deal with.

You certianly can use 1018 or something... it does lap easier than O1, but personally I think the $20 or so you'll save on most planes by going with mild steel is not at all worth it.

I would shoot myself in the head before using A2, D2, or S7. Far too tough to cut, IMO.

I have used Mcmaster Carr and been very happy with them. For brass, if you are doing a small plane, smallparts.com has excellent prices.

FWIW, for most planes I like 3/16" soles with 1/8" sides. I've done a 1/4" sole on a panel plane, but it really was too heavy when I finished.



edit to add: I assume you know that the most important tool you'll own for this is a comfortable hacksaw and good blades. Also, be SURE you buy steel for the sole in as close as possible to final width. Having to 'rip' 1/2" from the width of a 10-18" piece of steel is not fun. Seriously.

Do a small and simple plane for the first one. Don't worry if it doesn't look great - just make it work well. The experience of using it will be more than enough inspiration to make more :)

[Johnny Kleso]

Ebay has a lot of metal seller of left over pieces from jobs

Buy> Business & Industrial> Manufacturing & Metalworking> Metals & Alloys

search for Low Carbon Steel and Brass
Low Carbon steel is ground on all sides and at enco just after the tool steel section...

www.use-enco.com (http://www.use-enco.com) has good prices plus if you join there mailing list on homepage every month they send you a free shipping code for orders over $50..

Can't be free shipping on steel :)

[George Springer]

Here's another supplier when you don't need much.

http://www.smallparts.com/

GSpringer

[Frank Drew]

Not just steel, there are lots of different brasses (and bronzes) to choose from, too.

[Graham Wilson]

Thanks for all the tips/suppliers so far. A local friend suggested the Metal Supermarkets (http://www.metalsupermarkets.com) is pretty easy to deal with. I can pickup my order which saves shipping and border hassles shipping to Canada.

I'm waiting for a quote from them.


Not just steel, there are lots of different brasses (and bronzes) to choose from, too.

Given the prices I've seen for brass/bronze, I think I'll stick with steel for these first ones.

[Johnny Kleso]

PS:
The Brass most times is Naval Brass which is the more expensive type than 360 (Yellow) Brass

I checked eBay and not much brass sheets or low carbon steel..

For a blade you might want 0-1 tool steel and you can check my heat treating page at my website listed in my profile..

[Will Krautkramer]

Check your local scrap yards and machine shops. I see a lot of 7 GA. to 3/8" mild and sheet pieces left over from waterjet cutting parts out of sheets

[Graham Wilson]

Check your local scrap yards and machine shops. I see a lot of 7 GA. to 3/8" mild and sheet pieces left over from waterjet cutting parts out of sheets

If only I had access to a small mill; unfortunately, squaring off-cuts up would be problematic without one.