Veneer - Paper backed or not?

[Brandon Shew]

Looking for my first veneer attempt and I am wondering what the pros and cons to paper backed veneers are. I am replacing walnut veneer on a table top that was not paper backed (if that makes any difference).

[Jerome Zaavy]

Hi Brandon,
before asking your self what kind of veneer, you should decide how you are going to glue it.

Jerome

[David DeCristoforo]

Well, the first thing that jumps to mind is that paper backed veneer is most likely going to be way thinner than the veneer on your table top. These veneers are intended to make veneering "easier" since you can buy them in sheets and thereby avoid having to deal with matching and joining. Also, backed veneers can be successfully laid up with contact cement. But, there are some "trade offs", the most obvious being the previously mentioned "tissue thin" veneer layer which makes them (IMMHO) less than ideal for table tops or anything else that will be subjected to "wear and tear". Paper backed veneers are also susceptible to "bubbling" when laid up with contact. I prefer phenolic backed veneer which is much less likely to be problematic in this manner but which still has the "issue" of the veneer being so thin that you can almost burn through it simply by looking at it too long.

[Gary McKown]

I just finished veneering both sides of 8 panels for a pair of nightstands with wood-backed mahogany from joewoodworker (actually made in Indiana). My first experience with this type (previously had done some small pieces with natural veneer and some larger ones with paper-backed variety) and must say was fairly impressed. First, it is much thicker and easier to work with than the paper stuff - a full 1/32". Second, there is no worry about solvent or finish bleedthrough (thin layer of phenolic between the wood layers). Plus, the two plys are crossed so it will be fairly rigid. The only drawback apparently is difficulty with splices but, since it comes in sheets, that shouldn't be an issue for most of us.

I bought a bottle of Heat Lock but ended up using Better Bond cold press glue at Joe's suggestion - I will never fool around with contact cement (or PVA glue) again. The tack time of the glue is 10-12 minutes, so you can move it around a bit before clamping, and it dries very hard. Plus, it comes in colors to more nearly match finished wood - the dark color for mahogany, walnut, etc. I don't have a vacuum press but the results with platen boards, cauls and lots of clamps was smooth, flat, and looks great.

[Mike Henderson]

As David pointed out, backed veneer is really thin. When you use it, you have to apply it and barely sand it - just enough to get it ready for finishing.

The other problem is the edging. It sounds like you're going to re-do the top of an existing table which means you're probably going to take the veneer out to the edge. This is not good with backed veneer because the edge wears more (and the veneer is very thin) and the backing will show on the side.

To do the best job, I'd recommend non-backed veneer - but you need some knowledge of how to lay it and some method of pressing it (a vacuum press would probably be the best).

If there's someone in your area who will work with you - someone who knows veneer and has the tools and equipment - it would be worth while to pay that person to teach you how to veneer your table. After that, you'll be a bit better prepared to take on projects by yourself.

Veneer is one of those things that has a steep learning curve (you have to learn quite a bit to do the first project - and even more to do complex things) and it requires special tools and equipment. But it opens up design possibilities that just cannot be done with solid wood.

Mike

[Cary Swoveland]

I just bought some paper-backed veneer. I hadn't used it before, but was looking for quartersawn ash and couldn't find it in a regular venner. At the same time I bought sheets of paper-backed quartersawn BC fir (really cheap) and bamboo (interesting). All three sheets are gorgeous. I'm using the ash and fir for the bottoms of small boxes. No plans for the bamboo.

I believe paper-backed veneers come in 10, 20 and 30 mil widths. Mine are 20 for the ash and fir, 10 for the bamboo. By comparison, most non-backed veneer is 1/42", about 24 mil.

As David mentioned, paper-backed veneers come in large sheets, avoiding the need to join narrower pieces yourself. I understand they are often used on curved surfaces, as they less likely to split when shaped (due to both the veneer thickness and the paper backing, I presume). I understand some paper-backed veneers are pre-softened. The paper keeps the ends from splitting--I imagine you could cut them safely with shears. They are dead-flat, so there's no need for a softener and no chance of wrinkles when you remove them from the press.

Cary