Rebuilding a door frame

[Burt Alcantara]

The old frame, probably 60 years old, was held together with galvanized nails. Any reason I can't use 9x3 brass torx screws for the new frame?

Burt

[Neal Clayton]

not really.

more important would be spacing the same and shimmed behind the hinges.

[Peter Quinn]

By frame you mean the jamb? If so definitely use screws. I prefer deck screws or something weather resistant and ferrous for strength. I suppose brass would be good to the weather but I wonder about driving 3" brass screws without breakage. I think few would use nails for connecting the jamb legs to the jamb head these days given the quality of screws available.

[Neal Clayton]

well if you're not painting but rather staining, and using a solid routed board rather than an overlay in the middle, you want something that can be hidden easily. those small head finishing screws work fine, although they are easy to break..

pilot holes = recommended if you're gonna use those.

[Burt Alcantara]

The screws I use are Gold Star General Purpose torx head screws. I'm assuming they are brass because that is their color. I've used close to 1000 so far and not one broke. I've striped the head of just one and that was with my 1/2" corded wrist-breaker drill when held at a bad angle.

They are self driving so no pilot hole needed. In fact, if there is too much torque on the drill the screws will end up in China.

They are a bit spendy tho...
Burt

[Lee Schierer]

The screws I use are Gold Star General Purpose torx head screws. I'm assuming they are brass because that is their color. I've used close to 1000 so far and not one broke. I've striped the head of just one and that was with my 1/2" corded wrist-breaker drill when held at a bad angle.

They are self driving so no pilot hole needed. In fact, if there is too much torque on the drill the screws will end up in China.

They are a bit spendy tho...
Burt
All things gold colored are not brass. Most likely the screws are either brass plated, yellow zinc plated or dichromate coated steel screws if you haven't broken any with a power driver and no pilot hole.
http://www.mcfeelys.com/img/flat-head-steel-0604-FMY.jpg

Check and see if they are magnetic. Unless you own a brass magnet they should not stick to the magnet if they are brass.:D

[Burt Alcantara]

Here's the 9x3 version. It's a typical #25 torx head. Considering how thin they are I'm surprised I haven't broken bunches.

Burt

[Peter Quinn]

Pretty sure those are not brass. Good choice for assembling jambs. Three inch is a bit overkill for 3/4" jambs on a passage door but just about right for a 5/4 or 6/4 exterior jamb.

I just drove some #10 X 3" coated torx head screws with the #17 self drilling auger tip into a QSWO sill for a new window jamb today, no problem at all. I like an impact driver for screws that long, less stripping and easier entry. My 1/2" cordless will test your wrist strength if you are driving enough of them but the impact goes in easy.

As far as breaking I think the better assembly screws are annealed for strength vrs typical drywall screws which are hard and brittle. I bought some #8 SPAX screws that can run into hard maple without a pilot hole, without breaking the screw or splitting the wood. They are also rated for concrete!

I think unlike some things done better in the old days todays metal technology affords us a selection and quality unrivaled in the past. Unfortunately there is also a lot of useless junk on the market too

[jud dinsmore]

where are ya'll finding #9 headed screws? i've looked for these all over without any success.


thanks,

jud