Leather for Lining Vise Jaws

[Rob Luter]

To all,

I’d been having a bit of a time locating some leather suitable for lining the vise jaws on my recently completed bench. The hobby stores only had small scraps for craft work. It seemed anything large enough to cover the twin screw jaw (8” x 36”) was from an upholstery surplus shop, was really thin, and was some strange color that was sure to bleed into my projects. Another option was to buy a whole hide on line ($$:eek:$$)

On a whim I called a local Western Tack and Equestrian Supply business to see if they could suggest where I might find something suitable. As it turned out they do some harness making and saddle repair on site. I was able to pick up some full thickness (1/4”) tanned, natural cowhide that made perfect covers for the vise jaws. It’s amazing how good it looks and how well it works. I’ve got plenty left over for mallet faces, clamp jaw pads, and who knows what else too.

I just wanted to share this with the group in case anyone else struck out at Hobby Lobby like I did. You may have a similar source near you.

- Rob

[Johnny Kleso]

I buy my leather from this eBay seller Dangerous Threads Maintained by: bobkitchener
I hope its ok to bost his store link..

http://stores.ebay.com/Dangerous-Threads_W0QQssPageNameZstrkQ3amefsQ3amesstQQtZkm

[Dave Anderson NH]

Another way accomplish the same task is to line the jaws with a cork/rubber compound such as Corprene. Sheets of this material ae available for McMaster-Carr, MSC Direct, and other industrial supply houses. The exact blend such as nitrile/cork, or neoprene/cork doesn't really matter. What matters is that you probably want something either .125" or .187" thick. You can also take the leftover sheet and make yourself a nice bulletin board for handing notices with thumbtacks in the shop.

[Jim Koepke]

When on vacation in Oregon, there was a leather shop in one town.
Inside there was a man at a bench working on something. He greeted me and when asked about scraps for making strops, came up with a bag full of useful pieces that he was happy to get rid of and I was happy to buy.

So, check with the artisans in your area. Networking will pay off.

jim

[David DeCristoforo]

Being an "old leather guy" I would suggest a heavy "vegetable tanned" leather. If you hit this site:
http://www.brettunsvillage.com/leather/sides.htm
and scroll down to:
"Straight Veg Tanned Sole Bends"

This is what I would use. It's very heavy, stiff leather without any oils in it and would be perfect for vice jaw linings. One piece should be enough to do both jaws.

[Frank Drew]

I first used smooth finish leather but when I switched to rough-out I was much happier; it's quite a bit "grippier", with no loss of protection for the work.

I got the scraps from a friend who made chaps; it's not like you need very big pieces.

[Rob Luter]

Being an "old leather guy" I would suggest a heavy "vegetable tanned" leather. If you hit this site:
http://www.brettunsvillage.com/leather/sides.htm
and scroll down to:
"Straight Veg Tanned Sole Bends"

This is what I would use. It's very heavy, stiff leather without any oils in it and would be perfect for vice jaw linings. One piece should be enough to do both jaws.

That's essentially what I bought. It measures a full 1/4" thick and is pretty stiff. There are no oils or dyes.

It's nice to know what the stuff is really called!