Sikkens Cetol SRD

[Chris Padilla]

Any users out there?

I want to use this for a cedar gate I'm nearing completion on. I'm not sure if I'll tint the sealer or go translucent.

Anyway, hittin' up the collective for any experience.

This link (http://www.pacificgateworks.com/finishingandmaintenance.htm) gave me the impetus to try this stuff out.

Thanks! :)

[Spencer Hochstetler]

I used Cetol 1 basecoat and 23+ top coats for an exterior mahogany door that took a sun beating for 6 years and the finish was just then starting to show need for re-coating. Not a sand-down and recoat, but scuff-sand and re-apply the 23+ topcoat. I went with natural/translucent - it applied easily and looked wonderful. Call Sikkens and ask them how SRD is market-positioned relative to 1 and 23+; their technical support was very good when I called them for advice a number of years ago. Buy the best you can.

[Frank Snyder]

Chris - I just used the Cedar tinted Sikkens Cetol SRD for these arbors...

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=84675

It smells something awful, but appears to hold up quite well, even with a single coat. It has the viscosity of water, and it soaks right into the Cedar. The tinted variety helped even out some natural color variation.

[Chris Padilla]

Hi Frank,

Sorry I "missed" that thread on your arbor. Amazing job! My gate is coming along pretty good and I ended up using epoxy for the joints (floating tenons). Good to hear about the Sikkens product.

What sort of tint did you go with? Cedar does come naturally in a variety of tones so it would be cool to even it out a bit. I'll need to update my thread in the project forum.

That cedar sure is soft...dents SO easily! I, too, had a hard time finding clear stock but I'm happy with how it turned out. After all, it'll be outside and be subjected to fairly harsh conditions.

Looks like I'll be apply the SRD outside in the driveway...make sure the whole neighborhood enjoys it right along with me! ;) :D

[Mark Singer]

Its a great product and I have used tinted and clear... depends on te look

[Frank Snyder]

Chris - Thanks for the compliment. They were easily the heaviest things I've ever made. I used Sikkens "Cedar" color. They've got a good selection of other colors as well.

The Cedar is extremely soft and I don't think you can prevent surface damage. Instead, just embrace it and call it "character".

I'd wear a respirator when you do apply the Sikkens, even if you're doing it outdoors.

Be sure to post pictures when you're done.

[Chris Padilla]

Cool..."cedar" color sounds pretty good; I pointed my wife to your post and she liked the color it turned out so I think we are set. My lunch hour tomorrow will be a visit to the paint store to pick some up.

I'll revive my thread in the Project forum for the gate.

Roger on the respirator. Did you spray it or paint/foam brush it on?

[Chris Padilla]

Was reading a bit more in your thread, Frank; specifically, I followed the link in Jason's post in that thread:

http://www.aloghomestore.com/finish-sikkens.shtml#srd

It says "back-brushing" is necessary regardless of the application method. Can someone explain to me what this means and why they think it is called out? :)

[Frank Snyder]

"Back brushing" is if you use a roller or sprayer to apply it, you should go back over it with a brush to insure that the product penetrates the grain of the wood. When I paint siding, I'll use a 7" roller to apply the paint, then switch to a brush to smooth it out. This is known as "back-brushing". In your application, I would just use a China bristle brush to apply it.

[Chris Padilla]

Thanks for the tips, Frank. Do I need to "paint it" on kinda nicely or can I just slop this stuff on...then back-brush it nicely?

[Frank Snyder]

Chris - You can slop it on if you want, then just brush out the excess. It goes on a lot like any stain would. What you don't want is for it to pool anywhere, which when left, will tun into a sticky patch (DAMHIKT). Knotty areas will absorb less of the product, so to avoid sticky spots, I just wiped those areas with a paper towel before they dried. The back brushing just insures that the product gets into the grain where it does its job.

[Chris Padilla]

Interesting, California, due to VOCs, is limited in color choices although it is beyond me why that would be but I don't have the cedar color as a choice. I picked up the "Natural Light" color as that looked best on the sample we tried in the store. California only allows the 250 SRD, which is lower VOCs so it shouldn't be as bad as what you used.