insulated garage doors... how to finish it?

[Eric Mims]

I have 2 metal sectional garage doors (4 sections) and am in the process of insulating my garage and 'soundproofing' it.

I've got my R30 in the ceiling so far (need to get a gable vent I guess?),
and today I put some R13 kraft backed on my garage doors.. believe it or not, the 23" batts actually stay in place with no tape or help. But I know they will rip up in no time.

Any clever ideas for a material to attach over the insulation. I'm thinking of something that will keep the insulation from puffing out, as well as protect it from jabs from wood.. looking for a cheap material to do the job and not add too much weight to the doors. any ideas?

[Don Abele]

Eric, several houses ago the prior owner had done the same thing. He held the bats in place with 1/4" luan and self-tapping screws.

Be well,

Doc

[Steven DeMars]

I would use the corrugated plastic board like they use for political signs.
Extra insulation, white color & no maintenance . . .

[Bob Powers]

John,

I have the Oneida 1.5 in my shop, purchased in 1995 as I recall. It has performed flawlessly. The original version had an internal filter that was a pain to remove and clean, but they make an external filter assembly that I bought three or four years ago. I don't remember costs. Oneida is very responsive to questions about their products. I* would suggest you call them at (315) 476-5151 or email them at info@oneida-air.com for information.

[Christopher Ryan]

John,

I have the Oneida 1.5 in my shop, purchased in 1995 as I recall. It has performed flawlessly. The original version had an internal filter that was a pain to remove and clean, but they make an external filter assembly that I bought three or four years ago. I don't remember costs. Oneida is very responsive to questions about their products. I* would suggest you call them at (315) 476-5151 or email them at info@oneida-air.com for information.


????? OK, what?

[Don Abele]

????? OK, what?

Me thinks Bob posted this reply to the wrong question. I remember reading another thread about this unit.

Be well,

Doc

[Eric Mims]

I still haven't decided what to use yet (my main 200A breaker died on my house and the it's ancient and must be totally replaced...so that's put a stop to everything else until it gets fixed)..

I'm thinking of that 1/8 luan or masonite though.. if I could find some of that sign board I'd use it.. but I can almost guarantee it would cost more than the other choices.

[Danny Thompson]

John,

I have the Oneida 1.5 in my shop, purchased in 1995 as I recall. It has performed flawlessly. The original version had an internal filter that was a pain to remove and clean, but they make an external filter assembly that I bought three or four years ago. I don't remember costs. Oneida is very responsive to questions about their products. I* would suggest you call them at (315) 476-5151 or email them at info@oneida-air.com for information.

I would go with the Lie-Nielsen.

[Bob Powers]

Me thinks you're right. My intent was to reply to a question about a used Oneida DC system. Guess I OD'ed on stupid pills.

Bob

[Don Abele]

Me thinks you're right. My intent was to reply to a question about a used Oneida DC system. Guess I OD'ed on stupid pills.

Bob

Bob, we ALL have days like that. It's being able to laugh at yourself when you that makes it all alright. :)

Be well,

Doc

[Eric Mims]

So, use a Lie-Nielson dust collector to insulate my garage doors? That's why I love this forum, I would have never have thought to do that!! :D

[Mark Grotenhuis]

According to fire code you can only cover the back of the garage door with flame resistant material such as aluminum. Just a thought. Leaving the insulation exposed or putting hardboard on the back just doesn't sound safe.