Explain the Kreg Pocket Hole system to me, Please

[Shawn Honeychurch]

OK;

I have never used a pocket hole system, but it looks very handy, for making strong and clean looking bonds. I understand (from watching some videos of it), how to make your initial holes using the jig, say on the banding for a tabletop, but have no idea how you are supposed to make the matching holes and align them on the tabletop itself.

What am I missing?

Also is the Kreg system generally considered to be the best?

Thanks
Shawn

[Todd Bin]

Here is the great part. You don't have to make matching holes. The screws are self tapping. So, you use the guide to drill the holes in the first piece. The depth is set based on the thickness of your wood and then you choose the correct length screw. Put the two pices together and use your drill to drive the screw.

It is as simple as that.

[Chris Padilla]

One thing I would caution you on is clamping down firmly on the two pieces BEFORE driving that self-tapping screw. The mating piece can slip on you or get nudged ever so slightly.

I'd say Kreg is the #1 pocket-hole firm. Not sure if they "invented" it or not but their system is top-notch.

[Greg Hines, MD]

Fortunately, Kreg sells these nifty little clamps that you can use to hold the pieces together while you drive the screws. Properly adjusted, your workpieces aren't going anywhere, but creep can occur if you just hold them freehand.

The other thing about their jigs is that you have a lot of latitude with regard to how much jig you get. $20 will get their basic jig, to as much as about $150 for their master kit, which I think is worth every cent, but you have to make your own decision on that.

Doc

[Shawn Honeychurch]

Thanks for all the info folks, it sounds even better than I thought.

I think I will go and get a basic kit this coming weekend, and do a little more learning.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Shawn,

My BIL gave me a PSI knockoff of the Kreg system. I used it recently to make face frames for 2 shop cabinets. The pocket hole system works as easily as advertised and as well as advertised IMHO.

[allan cripe]

I am one of those that enjoyed the fringe of woodworking....saw the kreg jig propaganda video, and immediately became a skilled woodworker (not really)! I have used my kreg jig to build captain's beds, end tables, and a hall tree bench. It is what it is, for my skill level "still learning" it has amped up my ability to actually build things my family uses. I love it. I can say that I have definately tested the boundaries of pocket screw joinery!!!

al

[Craig Mitchell]

I found the Kreg Pocket Hole System to work as advertised. I recommend getting the whole Master Kit (it comes with screws too) It's a great way to get started.

If you search on Youtube, there are good videos and they have some great demos on the Kreg site.

You will most certainly want to buy a couple Kreg Right Angle Clamps. These are special clamps for the Kreg System that actual fit into the pocker hole itself to prevent joint creep as you affix the two pieces together.

It's _almost_ perfect. There will be times when you still have a slight amount of joint creep. Having extra Right Angle Clamps can help with that. I have three of them.

Regadless, It's a great system and money well spent in my opinion.

[Peter Quinn]

There is a bit of a learning curve. I recommend test pieces, and possibly making some low pressure low value shop project for a first run. You can make a pretty simple face frame jig to help align parts quickly if quantity is in your future. The pocket hole jig makes a surprisingly strong connection and is very versatile. Kreg's web site and videos are both loaded with well produced info to help you explore the tools possibilities. Don't be tempted by cheap knock off screws, they are the grease pole to pocket hole hell. Use quality fasteners.

The primary problem I encounter with pocket hole screws is figuring out how to clamp the pieces firmly enough to over come the torque that the self tapping screw exerts upon entry which works to push work pieces out of alignment. There are clamps and jigs, but additionally the best tip I've seen is to run the screws in dry, back them out, then apply glue where appropriate and drive the screws in again. PVA glue is a very effective lubricant until it starts to grab, which is usually just after I have realized that my parts are misaligned.

For success you must use the correct length of screw for the thickness of your stock, and set both the jig and bit for proper drilling depth. This is explained well in the Kreg manual, though I managed to screw it up a few times (no pun intended). Also, use fine thread screws for hard woods, course thread for plywood and soft woods or poplar. I have had very poor results using pocket hole screws with MDF. I hate MDF, and it seems to feel likewise about me.

Good luck. MPQ

[Rick Moyer]

Don't be tempted by cheap knock off screws, they are the grease pole to pocket hole hell.




Got a chuckle out of that. I had never heard that expression before.

[Todd Bin]

Go ahead and buy plenty of the 1 1/4" coarse thread screws. This is the size you need to join 3/4" stock. The coarse thread screws will work with hardwood, softwood and plywood.

One other piece of advice. Don't use a cordless drill to drill the holes. It will dull the bit quickly and also drain you battery quickly. Buy a good corded drill with a high RPM (2000 to 2500).

If you closely inspect furniture at Pottery Barn or Crate and Barrell you will find that most of it is assembled with pocket hole joinery.

Have fun.

[J. Z. Guest]

Also Shawn, you might want to put your geographic location in your profile. Someone local will probably be willing to demo it for you. I know I would if you're near me.

[Walt Caza]

A quick clarification,
Sorry to contradict Todd, but fine screws are recommended for hardwood.
The coarse are suggested for softwood, MDF and plywood.
They also offer a newer Hi-Lo thread for general purpose and what they
refer to as medium hardwood, such as poplar.

Kreg also offers the new blue kote screws for outdoor applications.
As well as plastic and real wood plugs to cap the pocket holes.

The only dodgey aspect of pocket hole joinery is ensuring the screw does
not 'jack' the joint apart, which has been well documented all over.
In fact, someone can probably provide an excellent link which explains it.
(the best I ever read was posted by Glenn Bradley)
take it easy,
Walt
:)

[Prashun Patel]

One underadvertised benefit of pockethole joinery is as clamps during glueups.

They allow you to assemble multiple pieces at the same time without using unwieldy or long clamps. Further, once glued and screwed, you can pick the piece up immediately to clean the joint or to move the piece out of the way.

My only advice is don't buy the cheap kit. Buy the master. You'll grow to really appreciate the face clamp and the dust collection.

[Jim Becker]

My only advice is don't buy the cheap kit. Buy the master. You'll grow to really appreciate the face clamp and the dust collection.

Exactly what I was going to say...

[Shawn Honeychurch]

One other piece of advice. Don't use a cordless drill to drill the holes. It will dull the bit quickly and also drain you battery quickly. Buy a good corded drill with a high RPM (2000 to 2500).
Have fun.

OK, I don't get this at all. Why would cordless or corded make a difference to how fast the bit will dull????

Shawn

[Bartee Lamar]

Kreg is great system, buy the master, and plenty of screws.

You will need a cored 3/8 drill to get the right drill speed.

Here is link to a drill Press table (http://picasaweb.google.com/bartee/DrillPressTable) that used Kreg throught out.

Face frames are great with pocket holes.

Like everyone else has said make sure you clamp joints before screwing.

I have used mine on every shop project since I purchased it 3 years ago.

[Chris Padilla]

I've used cordless drills with my Kreg PH kit for many years and never had any issues with "rapidly dulling" or broken stepped-drill bits. I've seen it mentioned several times by various outfits and folks that a corded drill for high RPMs is required but I'm not convinced.

[Scott Loven]

Kreg recommends a higher rpm that you can achieve with a corded drill, but not a uncorded drill. The problem is with friction and heat. I think it is mainly a problem with "Production runs" causing the drill bit to over heat and lose its ability to hold an edge. A few holes now and then should not be a problem, a corded drill is faster though!

[Bob Lavery]

OK, I don't get this at all. Why would cordless or corded make a difference to how fast the bit will dull????
Shawn
Shawn it is more correctly expressed as 'low rpm' vs 'higher rpm' drill. Corded drills like the 1/2" Magnums are low rpm drills made primarily for drilling in Metal. Corded drills with >2000 rpm are mostly used for drilling in wood. The Kreg website recommends using a drill at least 2000 rpm. Tool and Techniques (http://kregtool.com/information_center/faqs.php?FAQ_CAT_ID=1#4)

Cordless drills speed: DeWalt claims to have the highest speed cordless with the XRP line which has a three speed transmission. But it maxes out at 1800 RPM while the Makita will top out at 1500 RPM.

Greg Burnet found this deal on a Bosch 5.5 Amp corded 2500 rpm Drill that is ideal for pocket hole drilling.
On Amazon, with Free Shipping, Sale price $23.51 Amazon.com: Bosch 1005VSRK 5.5 Amp 3/8-Inch Drill: Home Improvement (http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1005VSRK-5.5-Amp-3-8-Inch-Drill/dp/product/B00002246N/?tag=bretsreviews4-20&linkCode=asn&creativeASIN=B00002246N)

Note: This drill is for drilling Not Driving Screws

[Spencer Hochstetler]

For high RPM cordless drilling, I use a quick-connect bit in my Makita impact driver. Around 2500 RPM (variable speed) and only occasionally does the impact clutch activate and when it does, I've found no adverse effects. I use it with countersink bits all the time and I put the driver bit in my driver/drill to avoid having to switch bits all the time.

*pause*

I just looked at the Kreg bit in the Master system. It has a round shank, not a 1/4" quick-coupling style. Never mind...

*edit*

I just found their quick-change kit with a 1/4" quick coupler. If you have a cordless impact driver, you're in high-speed business. If you've never used an impact driver to drive long screws, you don't know what you're missing. You have to re-learn a little about driving screws, but wow, what a difference...

[Bob Lavery]

Corded drills like the Magnums are low rpm drills made primarily for drilling in Metal. Sorry I got ahead of myself. The 1/2" Magnums are the low rpm heavy duty drills but the Magnum 3'8" drills will spin at 2800 rpm. Amazon.com: Milwaukee 0233-20 Magnum 5.5 Amp 3/8-Inch Drill with Keyless Chuck: Home Improvement (http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-0233-20-Magnum-8-Inch-Keyless/dp/B0000223HD/ref=cm_cr_pr_pb_t)

....Bob

[Bruce Wrenn]

There are two kinds of pocket hole jig owners in the world- those that have a Kregg, and those who wish they did! Buy the Master kit first. For replacement bits, check out the "mini" for $19.99 at Lowes. You get jig, bit, stop collar, and Allen wrench. I have a couple of the A-2's ( the original aluminum ones), two K-2000's, a K-3, and several of the "mini's". I bought the mini's to get the bit.

[Frederick Wilt]

This may be just what you are looking for:

http://www.kregtool.com/products/phm/product.php?PRODUCT_ID=14

;)

[Alan Huey]

Clamp pieces together help against any shifting while driving the screws. Very easy to master and very much worth the effort. Practice on some scraps and you will shortly learn how easy it is.

[Tim Anderson]

When I first thought about buying a Kreg, I thought it might be like giving a rachet set to a caveman. Well this caveman caught on pretty quick. I'd step up to the better model and possibly pick up another clamp.

[John Revilla]

Pocket Hole joinery is great. Fast, strong and enjoyable to do. A little bit addicting once you get the hang of it. I have a Festool Domino with all the whistles but sometimes, I reach for my Kreg Master first. In my opinion, a corded drill is a must for drilling pocket holes. Godspeed.

[Chris Padilla]

Greg Burnet found this deal on a Bosch 5.5 Amp corded 2500 rpm Drill that is ideal for pocket hole drilling.
On Amazon, with Free Shipping, Sale price $23.51 Amazon.com: Bosch 1005VSRK 5.5 Amp 3/8-Inch Drill: Home Improvement (http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1005VSRK-5.5-Amp-3-8-Inch-Drill/dp/product/B00002246N/?tag=bretsreviews4-20&linkCode=asn&creativeASIN=B00002246N)

Note: This drill is for drilling Not Driving Screws

It says $42.99 today. :)

[Bob Lavery]

I posted the $23.51 price and bought two at that Sale price.
That's Amazon They don't publish sale End dates


It says $42.99 today. :)

Did anyone here get it at the $23.51 price?

[Mack Cameron]

OK;

I have never used a pocket hole system, but it looks very handy, for making strong and clean looking bonds. I understand (from watching some videos of it), how to make your initial holes using the jig, say on the banding for a tabletop, but have no idea how you are supposed to make the matching holes and align them on the tabletop itself.

What am I missing?

Also is the Kreg system generally considered to be the best?

Thanks
ShawnHi Shawn; a little trick I use with the Kreg is to twist (screw) the screws through the first piece prior to attaching to the 2nd piece. Then as some others have stated, be sure to clamp the two pieces together when joining them permanently.

[Craig Mitchell]

Hi Shawn; a little trick I use with the Kreg is to twist (screw) the screws through the first piece prior to attaching to the 2nd piece. Then as some others have stated, be sure to clamp the two pieces together when joining them permanently.

Does this help prevent joint creep?

[Mack Cameron]

Does this help prevent joint creep?Hi Craig; I find it does since the screw is only trying to get into the new wood. It doesn't negate the clamping though.

[Bob Sanders]

I've got the Master Kit, and love it.

In this video (http://www.kregtool.com/psj/index.html), Kreg doesn't use a corded drill at all... so I wonder how important it is. Maybe they're changing their tune since most people don't have them any more? I don't know. I'll just keep using my corded craftsman for now.