Stanley 95 question

[John Erhardt]

So I've been debating whether or not I should pick up a Stanley 95 (edge trimming block plane, Jeff) mostly because Chris Schwarz has confirmed a lot of my suspicions:

http://tinyurl.com/6mvt8c

However, I just cannot bring myself to purchase 2 of these things, largely because I buy most of my lumber S2S and can pick a reference face then.

But this tool confuses me. First off, I'm right-handed. I know Stanley didn't make a left-handed version of the tool (according to Blood & Gore (http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan11.htm#num95)), but the tool that Stanley did produce looks more like a left-handed tool. When I look at the LV and LN versions, it seems to me that the left-handed models would be far more comfortable to use with my right hand, unless I'm pulling the tool toward me and not pushing it. The palm rest seems to be on the opposite side of the tool than what I would expect.

Can anyone speak to this? Has anyone purchased both versions, only to find they use one way more than the other? Anyone buy just one and wish they bought the other? Is the tool easier to pull than push? It looks like that might give more controlled/consistent registration against the workpiece, since the fence is not that large.

Basically, it looks like a mighty useful tool, though I cannot justify buying both, since all I want to do is sever wood fibers cleanly, which I can do now.

Thanks in advance,

J

[Jim Koepke]

So I've been debating whether or not I should pick up a Stanley 95 (edge trimming block plane, Jeff) mostly because Chris Schwarz has confirmed a lot of my suspicions:

http://tinyurl.com/6mvt8c

However, I just cannot bring myself to purchase 2 of these things, largely because I buy most of my lumber S2S and can pick a reference face then.

I bought a Stanley 95 while on a road trip one time. I do not use it much. A square edge can be achieved with a joiner, jack, smoother or a block plane on the end grain. If you find yourself with some extra cash and a hankering for something different, then this may fit the bill. It does have other attributes. One can attach angled runners to cut accurate angled edges.


But this tool confuses me. First off, I'm right-handed. I know Stanley didn't make a left-handed version of the tool (according to Blood & Gore (http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan11.htm#num95)), but the tool that Stanley did produce looks more like a left-handed tool. When I look at the LV and LN versions, it seems to me that the left-handed models would be far more comfortable to use with my right hand, unless I'm pulling the tool toward me and not pushing it. The palm rest seems to be on the opposite side of the tool than what I would expect.

This is similar to the 98 & 99 Side Rabbet Planes, the right hand and left hand designation does not seem sensible. It may be that the naming comes from what side of the rabbet they trim. My pair of these actually find more use in my shop than the 95.


Can anyone speak to this? Has anyone purchased both versions, only to find they use one way more than the other? Anyone buy just one and wish they bought the other? Is the tool easier to pull than push? It looks like that might give more controlled/consistent registration against the workpiece, since the fence is not that large.

Basically, it looks like a mighty useful tool, though I cannot justify buying both, since all I want to do is sever wood fibers cleanly, which I can do now.

Thanks in advance,

J

If you have a good low angle block plane and few bench planes, learning to use them will save you some money.

jim

[Joel Goodman]

I had a LN version briefly that I was given -- I believe it was the RH version. It seemed easier to pull but I didn't find that I needed it. I think it's probably handy for a few tasks if you have lots of planes. LN exchanged it for a 60 1/2.

[Derek Cohen]

I have the LN bronze right and left pair. The reason for both is that they address different grain directions. You will ideally want both. In fact, my original purchase was the bronze LV (it was better machined and designed than the LN). It was inconvenient to have just the one side, however, so I returned it for the LNs. I am, nevertheless, very happy with the LNs. They are not "much-used" but they are definitely "regularly-used". Incidentally, I wasgiven the LV Anniversay stainless steel version as a gift. It is simply stunning in looks and execution.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Pedro Reyes]

John,

I have the LN (RH) my guess as to why you may be confused is in the manner you visualize working it. To avoid confusion we will call the two faces of the plane: 1.- sole (the one with the iron) and 2.- fence the one 90 to the 'sole'.

The plane is supposed to eject the shaving from an edge that is vertical not horizontal. Picture a table, standing as used, the top is horizontal, edges are vertical, now trim an edge and picture how you would hold the plane. The fence rides on the tabletop; the sole (with the business end) rides on the edge of the table.

On the other hand, if you pictured using this plane on a board set up for jointing (faces vertical, edges horizontal and shavings expelled up), then yes, the LH would be better for a RH person, you would hold the fence on the face away from your body and push.

Hope this helps.

/p

[John Erhardt]

John,

I have the LN (RH) my guess as to why you may be confused is in the manner you visualize working it. To avoid confusion we will call the two faces of the plane: 1.- sole (the one with the iron) and 2.- fence the one 90 to the 'sole'.

The plane is supposed to eject the shaving from an edge that is vertical not horizontal. Picture a table, standing as used, the top is horizontal, edges are vertical, now trim an edge and picture how you would hold the plane. The fence rides on the tabletop; the sole (with the business end) rides on the edge of the table.

On the other hand, if you pictured using this plane on a board set up for jointing (faces vertical, edges horizontal and shavings expelled up), then yes, the LH would be better for a RH person, you would hold the fence on the face away from your body and push.

Hope this helps.

/p

Aha. This does it. No more confusion. I was picturing the plane's use all wrong, and I had never heard of these planes being used this way--even the LN and LV catalog pictures show them being used on top of the board as it's sitting on its edge, or along the top edge of a length of molding.

As for whether I'm still interested in picking one up... well now I don't know what to think.

Thanks for your replies, everyone.

J

[Jim Koepke]

Aha. This does it. No more confusion. I was picturing the plane's use all wrong, and I had never heard of these planes being used this way--even the LN and LV catalog pictures show them being used on top of the board as it's sitting on its edge, or along the top edge of a length of molding.

As for whether I'm still interested in picking one up... well now I don't know what to think.

Thanks for your replies, everyone.

J

John,

Because of this thread, I spent a little time with my No. 95 on a small piece of wood. It was run along the top of the wood clamped in a vice. The blade was horizontal and the fence vertical. The front of the plane was held with the fence against the wood. The right hand was placed on the back of the plane with a little pressure against the wood. This felt very natural.

One big discovery though, if the blade is skewed even the slightest, the edge cut will not be square to the side the fence runs on.

This makes me feel that learning to square with a bench or block plane may be the better path to take before buying a specialty plane like this.

This plane can be very useful plane for some set ups. One example:
Some people like to shave a little off the joining side of the tails on a dovetail joint to conceal the joinery on the inside. This plane could be useful for such a job.

jim

[John Erhardt]

John,

Because of this thread, I spent a little time with my No. 95 on a small piece of wood. It was run along the top of the wood clamped in a vice. The blade was horizontal and the fence vertical. The front of the plane was held with the fence against the wood. The right hand was placed on the back of the plane with a little pressure against the wood. This felt very natural.

One big discovery though, if the blade is skewed even the slightest, the edge cut will not be square to the side the fence runs on.

This makes me feel that learning to square with a bench or block plane may be the better path to take before buying a specialty plane like this.

This plane can be very useful plane for some set ups. One example:
Some people like to shave a little off the joining side of the tails on a dovetail joint to conceal the joinery on the inside. This plane could be useful for such a job.

jim

Jim:

Actually, this helps out a great deal, so thanks for checking it out. I hadn't considered that about the skewed blade, but it makes total sense. I can only guess that LV's set screws are designed in part to compensate for this (I didn't ask, but I'm guessing you were using a true Stanley 95, and not an LV or LN version).

I currently square with bench planes/block planes/shooting board, all of which can be multitaskers (I shoot with a #5 or #6).

It's funny--I do all the cooking in my house, and I cannot stand cooking implements or utensils that only do one thing. In the shop, though, there's definitely something appealing about a tool that may only do one thing, but it does that one thing well.

J

[Jim Koepke]

I didn't ask, but I'm guessing you were using a true Stanley 95, and not an LV or LN version

Correct, I am happy with the old tools. I only consider the LN or LV if the old tool is something I really want and the new version will cost a lot less.

There is value in the new tools having a few bells and whistles not found on the oldies. There is also the pleasure of having something work right out of the box.

On the other hand, there is a lot of pleasure using a tool that was made a century ago, or more. There is also the pleasure derived from fettling an old tool back to life.

Finally, there is the dream of someday my heirs deriving pleasure from using tools one of their ancestors saved from the rust heap.

jim