Router for Router Table

[Alan Turner]

We are considering changing our default router table router. We are currently running a Triton 2.25 hp model and recently burned one up. Literally. Our use may be too heavy for this unit.
I think that the issues that are of importance to us are:
1. Above the table bit changing without removal of the router. A self releasing collet is also important, although most probably have this feature at this point in time.
2. No need to use a separate lifting mechanism.
3. Easy fine bit height adjustment, either from above the table or below.
4. We don't need a 3 hp for what we run in terms of bits. For raised panels, heavy cuts, etc., we run a shaper with a powerfeeder. The router table is most often used for delicate moldings.

I tried to search here as I am sure this has been addressed often, but for some reason could not do so successfully. I am sure this is my lack of searching skills.

Thanks for any assistance.

[John Keeton]

Alan

Other than the fact that you fried the Triton, did it perform as expected? I have a hobby shop and have been watching all of the threads on this router.

[Stephen Edwards]

I'm in the same fix that you are! I'm trying to decide which is the best router for your stated purpose. Yesterday, I went to one of the borgs and looked over their selection. After picking up and actually holding in my hands all of the routers that they stock, I'm leaning toward the Bosch. However, they don't stock the Milwaukee in the same power range. I want to hold and examine of those, too. Both have had excellent reviews here and on Amazon. Decisions, decisions................

[Steve Flavin001]

the power range, Porter Cable 890, but verify lifting arrangement carefully.

[Mike Thomas]

My two cents for what it's worth; you don't say if cost is an important factor, but if it isn't then strictly for router table operation I don't think you can beat the PC 7518 with a lift. Plenty of power, variable speed, and has proven its durability.

[Neal Clayton]

I'm in the same fix that you are! I'm trying to decide which is the best router for your stated purpose. Yesterday, I went to one of the borgs and looked over their selection. After picking up and actually holding in my hands all of the routers that they stock, I'm leaning toward the Bosch. However, they don't stock the Milwaukee in the same power range. I want to hold and examine of those, too. Both have had excellent reviews here and on Amazon. Decisions, decisions................


i've got the milwaukee on the end of my woodmaster's router attachment. it's ok power wise, but there's quite a bit of plastic on it. not sure if i'd choose it again.

[Bond Turner]

I highly recommend the MIlwaukee router. Though it is over the 3.0 HP range and you may not "Need" it, it hums along through anything that you throw at it and is smoothe as silk. I have had one mounted under my table for 3.5 years or so without a hitch. I liked it so much I bought the Milwaukee palm grip router for my free hand work. Also a great router. Prior to this I had two Tritons and they both had problem enough that I had to send them out for service. That was one of the problems was that there are no service centers for these routers locally, so I had to send them to NY or NJ, I can't remenber. After the second one went, I said forget it and went with the Milwaukee. I trya to buy any power tools from Milwaukee now if I can. Also, made in the USA and a 5 year warranty with dozens of local sertvice centers in my area. Good luck!

[Thomas Williams]

I use a Hitachi M12V in my router table with no real problems. However, if I were buying a router for a table again it would be the Milwaukee 5625. The other option would be the Porter Cable 7518. Both are work horses and will spin your smaller bits with less strain than a 2 1/4 hp router. If you don't want to go with the higher HP, the Milwaukee 5616 would be my recommendation.
Do you know why your Triton burned up? Not only will the larger router spin larger bits more efficiently, they will stand up to being run for a long time.

[Neal Clayton]

and to clarify my comment on the milwaukee, if you're putting it in a lift i don't think it would matter, i see lots of folks trying to avoid aftermarket lifts and instead using the fine height adjustment on the router itself. in that respect i think the milwaukee is lacking (i don't think the fine height adjustment mechanism will last with accuracy over time), but then again i don't know if there is a router with a rugged fine height adjustment that would last inverted like that for years on end...

[Brian Smith3]

Hi Alan,

Personally I think if you are worried about durability you should consider the PC 7539. I have used the Freud 2000 and the Hitachi M12V, and finally the PC 7539 is the one that really stood out for being robust. You can get a "fine" adjustment screw for $25 or if you are creative you can mill down a bolt with a wing nut, drill a hole in the plate and adjust from the top using the plunge. I don't think you will find a better production router for durability. Just my $0.02.

[Wayne Cannon]

Here's another vote for the PC 7518 (with a lift). Despite its age, I don't think there's a better router for a dedicated router-table application -- it's a proven performer with a very wide opening in the base and extends well above the table surface, which are my two biggest complaints about all of the other routers I've considered.

I've recently added a table with a 3 HP Triton -- after widening the opening in its base -- but don't have a lot of experience with it yet. It has a dust-collection advantage over the 7518 and doesn't require a separate lift -- though the JessEm lift is definitely more convenient. I got it for a large aluminum table top (Sommerfeld Tools) which doesn't support a router-plate style of mounting; otherwise, I would have used another 7518.

[Jim Becker]

The PC7518 or the equivalent from Milwaukee would be my recommendation.

[John Thompson]

I can't speak for the PC 7518 but I can for the Milwaukee 3 1/2 HP. I have run one under my router talbe for 6 years and shoved close to 150,000 linear feet of molding through it. I checked the brushes about 3 weeks ago and even though still in good shaped, I dropped by the Milwaulee Service Center here in Atlanta and picked up a pair for $6.

And I will have to dis-agree with Neal about having a lot of plastic on it. The only thing that is plastic is the motor housing case and the adjuster knob made of high impact plastic. I will also dis-agree about the adjuster knob and shaft being non durable. I have adjusted thousand of times and I can't even detect a scratch on the large Acme threads, much less significant wear.

The Milwaukee is a Hoss and those comments are the first time I have ever heard anyone that has one question that. I suppose we all see things from a different perspective. Would I replace it with another if it ever decides to die which I may never see it do?

You bet.. for that matter I sold a Bosch combo 2 1/4 HP here in classified to get a 2 1/4 HP Combo kit. I don't regret that move at all either, but that's another story.

Good luck with what you decide on...

Sarge..

[glenn bradley]

If you burned up the 2.25 I would say a 3+ HP is in order. I run the heck out of a Mil 5625 but you'll need a lift to meet your requirements. Unless something new has come out I am not aware of a production level router that has built in lift features.

Routers like the Triton (a very nice little router) have lift-like features but are more for hobbyists like me IMHO. The Mil was overkill for me but, I have never regretted it. I intended to get a lift of above the table bit changes but, the release on the motor is so smooth and quick that I have never spent the money. Of course you would be on the hook for a $300 lift if you don't like flipping one lever to drop the motor. The PC 7518 get a lot of praise in this role as well.

[Cary Swoveland]

I just replaced Triton's 3.25hp router with the Bench Dog Prolift/PC 7518 combo. I chose to do this even though I rarely do heavy cuts on my router table.

The Triton was OK, but I much prefer the replacement. The Triton was good for above-the-table bit changes, but raising it was not very smooth. At times it was hard to raise it high enough to get the collet lock to kick in. I never figured out whether it was dust gumming things up or something else.

Changing bit height is now a lot more convenient. One 360 with the crank changes the height by 1/8", yet it's easy to set a very precise height. The only time I need to access the router below the table is to change the speed.

The Prolift is heavy and beefy, exuding quality. I think it's the only lift made of steel. Among other things, that allows the use of magnetic featherboards for some operations.

Just a couple more points about the Triton. Firstly, if you remove one of the knobs that one holds when using it freehand (the knob not used for changing the height), it will fit into a relatively small table opening. Secondly, while it has a good dust collection system, I never used it. Rather, I just sucked the dust from a shop-made box covering the router, which is what I think most people do.

Cary

[John Thompson]

Ya da man, Glenn. I don't have a lift for my router and don't intend to purchase one as it take no more than 10 seconds to change the setting without even lifting it out of the table.

Now.. if someone needs to change bits without lifting... a different story. But... to open the doors on my cabinet... lift it out and change bits or collect takes under 1 minute. I could see the need to beat that if I were commercial where every second counts... but otherwise a minor issue IMO.

Regards...

Sarge..