anyone ever tried this tool?

[curtis rosche]

has anyone ever tried the easy rougher tool?
woodturnerscatalog.com/store/Turning_Tools___Special_Purpose_Tools___Easy_Rough er___easy_rougher?Args

i was looking at it and watched the video, it seemed to make pretty clean cuts, i was wondering how well that would work on the paralam beam, if it wouldnt tear out as much as other tools? is this tool worth it?

[Ron McKinley]

I've had one for about six weeks and wrote a review on it in our chapter newsletter. Go here and then to page 3: http://inlandwoodturners.org/newsletter/Apr08newsletter.pdf

Ron

[Richard Madison]

Ron,
You all have a dandy newsletter. Lots of pictures and recognition for lots of folks.

Would be inclined to order the carbide inserts and make own tool. Need a fairly stout lathe to do what is shown in their video.

[Doug Miller]

I've had one for a while now. When I got it I had just started an oak burl piece that was beating me to pieces. Tried teh Ci1 and got the burl a bit too thin before I knew what was happening. The inserts work quite well. Richard mentioned making his own tool after buying the inserts. It certainly could be done. The shaft that is made to hold the insert has a curved surface that mates with the cutter. It is very well machined and works so well. Is it worth the money, YES! There are some videos on Youtube if you care to watch them. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iQVBdh8rArE

[Bruce Pennell]

Curtis I've used the Ci1 for about 2 months now. It is a great tool. I have to wear a glove because it peels off wood so quickly it hurts. I use this tool for 75% of my work. It's a great roughing, shaping and end grain tool. Even when working with mesquite I still get 6-8 large bowls before I have to change cutters. I even touch them up with my diamond card. My Thompson gouge is now a refining and finishing tool.
The big surprise with the Ci1 is how much control you have. I have stalled my PM and made the belts scream by getting too aggressive. Yet it is not scary, no tool flying out of your hand, no getting cracked in the chin. You use the tool held flat, I found when roughing if you use a R to L than L to R motion you can hog wood off almost too quickly. I find using the edge is easiest, but you can use a series of plunge cuts also. The learning curve on this tool is so quick. You can order it right from Craig Jacksons (http://www.easywoodtools.com/index.htm)website. Craft Supply I believe was sold out. It is worth watching the Utube videos, that is exactly how the tool works.

[Bruce Pennell]

Here's the links to Stu's Utube review;
Part1 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iQVBdh8rArE)
Part2 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g8v6CRRGCqg)
Part3 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aiHnKNtgvXw)
Part4 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8tF-3atb0KE)

Very nice review. The biggest thing to notice is while roughing you don't get beat up, no tool jumping around, no bouncing.

[curtis rosche]

does it make nice clean cuts? we were thinking of getting one to use on the paralam beams that we have, since the wood tears out so much with other tools

[Jon McCoy]

If you're hogging off, the surface is rough like a parting tool leaves. Go slower, and it's smoother -- nowhere as nice as a skew leaves, but you were gonna sand it anyway.

It's not as useful for a mini lathe, since they're easier to stall and you're unlikely to be spinning really unbalanced blanks. I have to remember to take smaller bites. Or maybe I just need that 2436 sooner.

-jon-

[curtis rosche]

whats a good handle to get for this tool?

[Reed Gray]

This is a civilized version of a tool made popular by the Oregon coast myrtle wood turners. It is called the 'Big Ugly Tool.' You take a piece of tantung steel (about 3/32 by whatever width, and about 2 inches long) and silver solder it to a piece of bar stock, usually square. The ugly version has a piece on either end, and you wear a heavy leather glove on your hands to protect your hand from the cutter. Tantung is very hard, and some what brittle. You never quench it in water, and if you drop it, it will shatter. You can litterally use one cutter for about half a day before it needs to be sharpened. The coastal turners would turn myrtle bowls at 4000 rpm on custom made lathes. I have one version of this tool, but it has a wood handle on it. Held flat, it is excellent for roughing bowls, and spindles, and held at a shear angle, it will leave a surface almost as clean as a skew. In the hands of a master, you can get a finished surface that only needs minimal sanding. As with most scrapers, I would imagine that the Ci 1 will give excellent scraping cuts, and excellent shear cuts, but you need to learn how to use it.
robo hippy

[Ron McKinley]

Make your own handle and use the Oneway Thread Lok system. Then it will fit any half-inch tool. Take a look here for ideas: http://thompsonlathetools.com/handles.asp

[Bruce Pennell]

Reed can you post a picture of your tool? Thanks I'd really like to see it. At our last club meeting we talked about making a few different tools. Most of the guys are using tool steel and inserting them into 1/2 X 1/2 square stock steel, 3/16 straight bit, some go larger I saw one with a 1/2 straight bit. Some are using set screws, some epoxy, and a heat gun or torch to change tips. Thanks for any help or ideas you can give.

[curtis rosche]

i googled tantung, it said that if you use that you shouldnt using it with manmade materials like mfd and stuff that is glued.

[Gregg Feldstone]

The video link on Craft Supplies website actually shows the operator holding the tool by the back of the handle only to demonstrate how "steady" the tool is. Is this guy a complete idiot or what? I mean, one little nudge of the tool would send it flying into his face or body or most likely catch and get caught by the rest and crack his workpiece in half. I think craft supplies should remove this, as it demonstrates stupid, unsafe turning.

[Bruce Pennell]

Gregg the one thing about Craig's tool is if there is a catch it isn't scary. I've stalled my 2hp PM 3520b by being too aggressive with a plunge cut, no tool flying around, no bouncing, just stops the lathe and the belt sounds terrible. The tool is very safe as long as it is on the tool rest. I'm sure someone could find a way to break it if they tried, but I have found it to be very safe and stable, much more than a gouge. The difference is really felt by your body because you are not getting any bounce on an uneven blank, it just doesn't beat you up. That being said I do wear a glove because the wood coming off that quickly really hurts. I do wear a Trend Pro face shield and filter. I've seen many tool demo's I think you have to understand what is being shown and not take it as directions on how to use the tool, or turn. When I watched his Utube videos he was talking about the stability of the tool, not really showing it should be used with one hand. Just thought I'd add my two cents....Bruce

[Reed Gray]

Due to lack of computer skills, I can't post a picture. Some day I will have to get my daughters help on this. The tool you are talking about sounds like an Oland tool. It is also a scraper type tool, and much touted as being almost catch proof. I love scrapers. My tool is 3/4 square stock, with a 7/8 wide by 3 inch long piece of tantung on top of it. The tantung needs support under it because it is brittle. I do have to lower the tool rest to use it. It is great for roughing, and I have seen a master with it turn the most delicate finials with it, that I may be able to do if I really tried. I really don't have an eye for the finials though. I did use it a bunch for turning some of the Mountain Mahogany that I got.
robo hippy

[Steve Knowlton]

i have one of the tantung gouges. i will see if i can take a picture tonite and download tomorrow

[Bruce Pennell]

Thanks Reed and Steve, I'm waiting on a Enco catalog now. Still waiting on my Don Pencil tools also......I hate waiting......Bruce