TS Jig Suggestions

[Dennis Putnam]

I have a sloped ceiling that I want to level. I figure I could cut a bunch of 2X6X8's at the appropriate angle to attached to the sloped joists then when I put up the drywall, it will be level.

To do that I figure I need some kind of jig for my TS to achieve the proper angle cut. I am not sure how to go about that for 8' long boards and would like some suggestions. Thanks.

[William OConnell]

It sounds more like a circular saw and a chalk line would be my prefered method for that application.

[Greg Hines, MD]

I have a sloped ceiling that I want to level. I figure I could cut a bunch of 2X6X8's at the appropriate angle to attached to the sloped joists then when I put up the drywall, it will be level.

To do that I figure I need some kind of jig for my TS to achieve the proper angle cut. I am not sure how to go about that for 8' long boards and would like some suggestions. Thanks.

It would help to know how far off level we are talking about. If it is a slope of less than 3/4" over 8 feet, I would probably use a jointer to correct that. If it is a difference of 6" over the same span, I would probably use a long straight edge and a circular saw or perhaps a router to make that cut.

Doc

[Dennis Putnam]

Thanks for the replies. I haven't measured exactly yet but I estimate about 4-5" over 8'. I though of a circular saw but I have a large number to cut and my circular saw skills are not very good. Perhaps I need some kind of a jig to help me get my circular saw cuts consistent?

[Samuel Brooks]

I have a sloped ceiling that I want to level. I figure I could cut a bunch of 2X6X8's at the appropriate angle to attached to the sloped joists then when I put up the drywall, it will be level.

To do that I figure I need some kind of jig for my TS to achieve the proper angle cut. I am not sure how to go about that for 8' long boards and would like some suggestions. Thanks.

Put the tape meaure away and step back from the tool box. :D Don't measure anything. Use a long level and a bevel gage (http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=5301).

Use the level to establish "Level" :D. Also find something to support the level then use the bevel gage to set the angle. Tranfer the Angle to your piece of wood to cut. Then use your Skill Saw to cut to the line. Just clamp a piece of wood on the line and put your saw up against the piece of wood and cut. After that is done determin your length and cut that off, I am assuming a 90 degreen on the other end. You will most likly find that each cut will be slightly different and this why they will all work out correctly.

Just curious buy why not leave the slope. A sloped ceiling always makes the room look larger :p. Bigger is better.

[Greg Hines, MD]

Thanks for the replies. I haven't measured exactly yet but I estimate about 4-5" over 8'. I though of a circular saw but I have a large number to cut and my circular saw skills are not very good. Perhaps I need some kind of a jig to help me get my circular saw cuts consistent?

Definitely. The way I would do it is make a jig that is slightly longer than your workpiece, and is built up on either end, so that it can support a rail and fence for your saw. Put the workpiece into it, skewed to take off the amount that you need, and run a fence next to the shoe of the saw. That will guide your cut, and the fence itself (if it is fairly tight to the workpiece) will help to prevent any tear out by the saw blade.

If every one of your workpieces is the same, you can streamline it even better by putting stops in place to hold your workpiece in the same place, so that each is cut symmetrically.

As an aside, the other way to get a level ceiling would be to use a dropped ceiling. Then you could always get under it easily for running wiring or ductwork.

Doc

[Dennis Putnam]

Thanks again for the suggestion. I guess my main concern then is how to attach the straight edge on one end (also I am hoping to get 2 out of each board). Obviously, there is little there to clamp to without getting in the way of the saw. In my experience, putting the clamp too far back means it will move as the saw gets to the end. Particularly with the saw guide a couple of inches away from the blade. That is why my thoughts went to a TS with some kind of jig. Then there is the problem of no support for the saw guide at one end or the other.

The reason I don't want to leave it sloped is because it will have cabinets (stock not custom, I'm not that good) on both sides. Aside from looking off balance I don't see a good way to make the end units look right from the side.

[Samuel Brooks]

Instead of using clamps, just screw the guide to the bevel line, no movement to worry about. As far as support the other side of the saw, just lay any other piece of wood the same thickness next to it. Since this will all be covered up anyways a few screw holes should not hurt anything.

I know my biggest wood working hangup is to over think EVERYTHING. I have to sometimes just plow ahead and get the job done.

Good Luck.

[Dennis Lopeman]

Why do any cutting at all?? How about just nail the new "joists" right to the old joists - start on the lowest end - use one nail so you can pivot it, if needed to make it level - the have a bunch of 2x4 "drop downs" on the other side... hmmm - hard to describe that... in essence you would be making a bunch of 90 degree triangles spanning the whole room.

you don't care what they look like - they won't be seen... and a nail gun will be very handy for that over-the-head work...


OHyeah - and I would do a drop down - like Greg said... some many good reasons to do that!


Hmmm - just thought of something else... Mock up your whole idea using string and tacks... It might help paint your picture a little clearer.

[Samuel Brooks]

Why do any cutting at all?? How about just nail the new "joists" right to the old joists - start on the lowest end - use one nail so you can pivot it, if needed to make it level - the have a bunch of 2x4 "drop downs" on the other side... hmmm - hard to describe that... in essence you would be making a bunch of 90 degree triangles spanning the whole room.

you don't care what they look like - they won't be seen... and a nail gun will be very handy for that over-the-head work...


OHyeah - and I would do a drop down - like Greg said... some many good reasons to do that!

Hmmm - just thought of something else... Mock up your whole idea using string and tacks... It might help paint your picture a little clearer.


My point of over thinking things that I just posted, has been proven. This is one GREAT solution and should be very Fast to accomplish. Basically building a truss right next to the one that is there and connecting it at the lowest existing point which is used as the piviot. Sounds like a winner to me. You can then just use a joist hanger for the other end and you are good to go.

[Dennis Putnam]

Why do any cutting at all?? How about just nail the new "joists" right to the old joists - start on the lowest end - use one nail so you can pivot it, if needed to make it level - the have a bunch of 2x4 "drop downs" on the other side... hmmm - hard to describe that... in essence you would be making a bunch of 90 degree triangles spanning the whole room.

DOH! How dumb do I feel? Why didn't I think of that? Thanks.

If nothing else this clearly proves the worth of this list.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Time to look for that special tool to do the job.
A Slider perchance~?

[Dennis Lopeman]

DOH! How dumb do I feel? Why didn't I think of that? Thanks.

If nothing else this clearly proves the worth of this list.


Don't feel dumb - its why you ask to get other ideas and perspectives! Glad I could help

Oh - and this would mark my first "solution" on this site!! :) BooYaaaa!! I hope folks will like my idea about the water drain valve for compressors, too!!

[Vince Shriver]

Don't feel dumb - its why you ask to get other ideas and perspectives! Glad I could help

Oh - and this would mark my first "solution" on this site!! :) BooYaaaa!! I hope folks will like my idea about the water drain valve for compressors, too!!

Nothing like a little "know how" from a professional. Like, for instance, how do people who build airports know exactly where the planes will be landing before they even start - just amazing!
Seriously, I think your idea re drain valve is excellent.

[Dennis Lopeman]

Cool - thanks! Maybe I can make that solution #2

Feels good to add some value!

[Ben Grunow]

You could rip your lumber and cross fur the ceiling perpendicular to the joists if you just have to use your TS. Set a string level and make each strip larger and larger as needed. More work, less wood. Keep thickness to 1" min and hold 16" o.c..

[Dennis Lopeman]

If the slant is not too drastic, say 6 inch different, may he could just use a bunch of 2x8's and nail those into the existing joists...

He hasn't posted back in a couple days, i think, so maybe he's already doing something on it!! :)