Help! I hate My PM 2800 Drill Press. Suggestions?

[Max Acbuilder]

I have struggled with a Powermatic 2800 drill press for 1 year. I thought if I bought a "high price" new design drill press life would be easy. It ain't so. I have been chasing an elusive vibration +/- .009 at any speed. I pulled speed pulleys off and polished the spindle shaft so speed changes would be smooth. No change in wobble. So now I want to get on with it and sell trade or dump it and get something that is accurate and smooth running. I do pens and a lot of turning projects so I need accuracy. I want one to last years not months. Any suggestions??

[Mike Heidrick]

I just saw amazon had a price of over a grand for that DP - WOW:eek:

I am not a machinest but those boys have some tight tolerances. Would a machine designed for metal work be better suited? Maybe a smaller Mill? Maybe look for an industrial Delta or Jet drill press.

I have the Steel City drill press myself. I really like it and it will last years for me but it is not as fancy as the 2800 (manual belt change) but does have the 6" stroke. I would find one of those and test it out and see if it would work for you? It would be 1/2 to 1/3 the price of a new metal drill press for you. If you are local to me (central IL) come over and check it out. In Chicago they can be seen on display at Berlands house of tools. I have also heard of Rocklers selling Steel City.

[Mike Cutler]

Max

Where are you measuring the runout at?
If you are measuring the runout on the shank of the bit, remove the chuck and reseat it to see if it helps. It may also be that the jaws of the chuck are not moving at the same rate and the drill is wobbling inside the chuck. In which case change the chuck out for a quality Jacobs chuck and taper.

If the wobble is being measure on the taper shaft. Remove the taper and chuck. Clean all surface and reseat the taper. Do not lubricate it.

If you still have the wobble the next place to move is to the shaft. There are two sets of bearings, lower and upper. One set may not be pressed in properly and the bearings will have to be removed and reseated. Hopefully the shaft itself is not out of round, or you'll need to replace it.

If the entire drill press is causing the vibration. I'd look at replacing the belt with a link belt.

If you've already done all this. You're right, it's probably time to move on.

It sucks to have to go through this on a new drill press.

[glenn bradley]

Mike has some good suggestions but, for the price, it ought to be right without that much effort from you. Many people have had issues with this very expensive DP. A couple here and a few at another forum I participate in finally took them back. See this thread: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=66619

If you are still in warranty I would be sure to register a claim before it runs out. You have waited quite a while to "demand justice" but I would push them to make it right anyway. You could almost buy 2 DP's for the cost of a 2800. Anyone who sells this DP knows there are issues and should react accordingly.

[Pete Bradley]

You mention vibration and a runout measurement in the same sentence. Which is affecting your use of the machine? If it's vibration, I'd start by replacing the belt with a new solid machine belt to see if that helps. You've probably tried this already but different belt tensions can make a big difference.

Mike Cutler had some good suggestions for finding the source of runout. Make sure whatever you chucked in is truly round to the precision of your measurements or you'll be measuring the runout of the rod instead of the machine.

Pete

[Dave Lehnert]

A drill press that new and cost that much would be going in for repair or a refund. Why would you even consider selling it at a loss?

[Peter Quinn]

Maybe being a non pen maker my perspective is different, but .009" run out is a problem for you in wood working? Seriously? That is just a bit more than 1/128", or two sheets of paper. I know $1000 seems like a lot for a DP, but you have not purchased an industrial metal working machine with metal working tolerances, you have a very nice DP with some handy features for wood workers. True metal working equipment is bigger, heavier and typically far more expensive.

I'd work to minimize that vibration as that might be annoying, and follow the suggestions above to maximize the machines performance. I think if you start shopping for a milling machine or a true industrial DP you may either become enchanted with them, or happier with your current DP. I doubt any random consumer floor model DP from any maker is going to perform much better than your current machine out of the crate.

I should note that while I accept significant run out in my drill press I once spent several painful days eliminating the .008" run out in my shaper spindle using shims, hope and a rubber hose.

MPQ

[Dan Lee]

For what its worth my PM2800 has about 4 thou run out. I really like mine.

[Cary Falk]

That drill press has a 5year warranty. Have you called Powermatic?

[Max Acbuilder]

I know it doesn't sound like a lot but if you are drilling 3 to 4 inch bore in a pen blank of some exotic wood it becomes huge. Every time I clear the hole out and re-enter the drill will enlarge the hole or worse make the entry out of round. A 7mm hole entrance becomes 8.25mm. I think I might try a four jaw chuck and a new morris taper. Any other suggestions?

[Mike Cutler]

I know it doesn't sound like a lot but if you are drilling 3 to 4 inch bore in a pen blank of some exotic wood it becomes huge. Every time I clear the hole out and re-enter the drill will enlarge the hole or worse make the entry out of round. A 7mm hole entrance becomes 8.25mm. I think I might try a four jaw chuck and a new morris taper. Any other suggestions?

A new, quality, drive belt and make sure that the mounting of the motor is solid, and that the mounting plate isn't being distorted by a defect, or lack of machining in the mounting surface(s) for the motor.

.009 is a fair amount of runout. In most woodworking application we wouldn't even notice this amount. In metal work, and as you have pointed out, pen making. It's enough to cause a problem.

I like the idea of swapping to a four jaw Jacobs chuck.

Cary has a really good point. If PM can repair/replace under warranty. That's probably the best route to go.

Good luck Max

[Phil Thien]

Max, what procedure are you using for measuring the runout?

Also, when you tighten your bits in your chuck, I assume you snug them by hand, then use the key in each position around the chuck to tighten it very evenly, right?

[Keith Outten]

It seems to me that most new drill presses ship with very cheap chucks these days. the chucks aren't just cheap they are useless and need to be replaced as soon as you uncrate the press. I suggest that you try a new drill chuck first, it is most likely the culprit.

I went through several drill presses in my shop looking for the perfect machine...within my budget. I found the Grizzly Mill/Drill to be perfect for me, it is a Mill so it is a bit more beefy than a drill press and is designed for lateral loading as well as vertical drilling. Primarily a metal working machine it has better tolerances than most woodworking presses and I felt it was an excellent value. I also like having the XY table rather than a fixed table for almost every job, it makes fine tuning a snap.

Purchase or borrow a high quality chuck from a friend and see if the problem still exists. You should also remove the chuck then reinstall the adapter and test for run-out, I'll bet it will be near zero without the chuck.

.

[Bob Slater]

I got rid of runout on my old Taiwanese drill press by mounting a straight steel shaft in the chuck, then using a dial gauge, found out where the runout was and then used a plastic hammer to whack it straight. With a lot of taps, I got the press running with very little runout. My brand new General drill press (not international, made in Can) has a bit of runout. Definately not perfect, but close enough.

[Max Acbuilder]

1. A new chuck with a new morris taper adapter (need one for the lathe anyway)
2.I will file claim with Powermatic. Hope it is not like waiting for the cable guy.
3. Never buy Chinese again. No matter whose on the label!:eek:

[Ben Cadotte]

3. Never buy Chinese again. No matter whose on the label!:eek:

Unfortunately, that is getting harder and harder to do every day!! :(

[Bob Slater]

1. A new chuck with a new morris taper adapter (need one for the lathe anyway)
2.I will file claim with Powermatic. Hope it is not like waiting for the cable guy.
3. Never buy Chinese again. No matter whose on the label!:eek:

I certainly covet North American made tools. I almost purchased a mid 80's rockwell delta drill press. When I put my dial indicator on it, it was as close to perfect as I have seen. Wished I had bought it, even though I got a phenomenal deal on my new Cdn built General. ($400)

[Bill Wyko]

I'm sorry to hear of your troubles. I have one and it's great. I haven't had to make any changes burt you might try a link belt. I've heard good things about them. Is your table mustard or black? The mustard table ones are first gen DPs and I've heard others have had this issue.