Compressor Gloat and a Question

[Greg Hines, MD]

I finally went out and got a compressor and some pneumatic nailers this weekend. The compressor is a 15gal Campbell-Hausfeld from TSC, and the nailers are a Senco pack from HD.

I got it up and running this afternoon. A couple of questions for the Creek:

1. I know that I need a condensation trap, but am not sure where to put it.

2: After the day, how do you empty it of air so you can drain out any water in the tank?

The way I have it plumbed now is with a quick connect socket at the air output. Should this instead be just a nipple, with quick connects on both ends of the hose? I have never seen that arrangement before. That would also mean that the hose, if it were to come loose from the compressor, would let the air out in a hurry.

The check valve, when opened, let the pressure down to about 50 PSI. Clearly that will take care of some of it, but is there an easier way to let the rest out besides using an blow-gun to let it out?

Thanks to everyone who posted to the compressor threads over the past couple of weeks. This is an oil lubricated compressor, and large enough, I think, for pretty much any tool that I might end up using. Looking at their list of recommended tools, the only tool that may not work (and that I might eventually want) is a die grinder. Capacity is 3.7 SCFM at 90PSI.

Doc

[David Freed]

1. "The way I have it plumbed now is with a quick connect socket at the air output."
A good place would be to unscrew the quick connect socket and install the condensation trap between the tank and quick connect.

2. There should be a threaded hole in the bottom of the tank with a pipe plug in it. If so, take out the plug and put your drain valve there. You will probably need a bushing because the tank will likely be larger than the drain valve. Be sure to drain the tank first!

"The check valve, when opened, let the pressure down to about 50 PSI. Clearly that will take care of some of it, but is there an easier way to let the rest out besides using an blow-gun to let it out?"

Open the drain valve after you get it installed.

"Should this instead be just a nipple, with quick connects on both ends of the hose?"

You always want the female diconnect on the pressure side, so you don't lose your air when you unhook your tool from the hose, or hose from the compressor.

Hope this helps.

[Curt Harms]

There are 2 schools of thought on draining the air out of compressor tanks. One school says drain the air every day after use to save stain on the tank,, the other school says there's less stress on the tank leaving it full than emptying and filling it repeatedly. I chose the latter school of thought. I haven't let the air out of my compressor tank in at least 5 years, probably more. I do have a moisture drain in the bottom. I just removed the (leak prone) tank drain, put in a street el and 8" nipple then a ball valve on the nipple. My thinking is that the nipple will have to fill with water before there's any water in the tank. If something is going to corrode from having water in it, the nipple and valve are a lot cheaper to replace than the tank. I open the ball valve very briefly which lets any water out of the tank after any significant use. Works for me.

HTH

Curt

[David Freed]

I never drain the air out of my tank either, unless I am doing some kind of new plumbing on the tank. That just wears the compressor out quicker. It runs about 1 1/2 to 2 minutes from kick in (90 psi) to kickout (135 psi). On the rare occasion when it had to pump up from 0 psi, it took 4 or 5 minutes.

I have a spring loaded drain valve with attached pull rope that makes draining my 60 gallon tank very easy and convenient. I have a shallow drain pan under the valve. If the compressor is running a lot, I will give the rope a pull for a few seconds when I walk by. I got it at the store where I get my truck parts.

[Jim Becker]

My compressor is charged 7/24/365. An auto drain takes care of keeping moisture out of it. Draining moisture is much more important than draining air.

[Greg Hines, MD]

Thanks for the opinions. One thing that does not show up in their literature is whether you need to keep it charged or not. I am also going to replace the drain cap eventually, but it seems to be staying dry inside for now, as none comes out when you do bleed the cap. I think that the next thing I am going to do is plumb in a wye connection, but for now, having one port is working fine.

Thanks all.

Doc

[Tom Veatch]

...One thing that does not show up in their literature is whether you need to keep it charged or not. ...

Two reasons to keep the tank charged.

a) Economic: Why throw away stored energy which then has to be regenerated. Of course with current energy costs at an all time low :rolleyes: that may not be significant.

b) Material: Cumulative fatigue damage to metals comes from cyclic stresses, and the deeper the cycles the greater the damage. In other words, there is less fatigue damage to the tank from keeping it charged (low cyclic stress) than there is from repeated deep cycles from unpressurized to pressurized. Of course, the maximum stress at rated pressure is well below the yield stress (or should be) so the damage per cycle is quite small but still greater with the deep cycles than with shallow cycles. So, why damage the tank more than necessary?

[Josh Mountain]

My compressor is charged 7/24/365. An auto drain takes care of keeping moisture out of it. Draining moisture is much more important than draining air.

Convinced! Where do I get an auto drain valve for bottom of tank? Have these at the BORGs?

[Dennis Lopeman]

I'm interested in this also.

I have to say that I'm surprised at the answers here...

Why?

Well - I had to get the some part of the "Borg" type compress (Campbell Hausfeld sp?) and something went wrong on it after a while. It was still under warrenty and got whatever was wrong fixed...

And they told me that the problem was caused by the fact that there was continuous pressure on it and that it should be drained after use...

So that's what I've been told and have been doing. It was a pain when I just wanted to do a couple things...

SOOOOO... it seems you guys have had luck without having to do that. I think I will re-evaluate this concept now... I'll stayed tuned!

[Dennis Lopeman]

hey - a quick Uncle Google search gave this idea:

http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/workshop/compressor/drain/ball_valve.htm

well - he said that it makes a mess and blows dust and dirty water all over the place...

I have an idea for that - attache a sponge or something right at the opening - some how... maybe a wire cage or the like... it will absorb the water coming out so it won't get balsted all over the floor...

I put a ball joint on mine a long time ago, too... but didn't even think of putting the "extension" tubes on to make it easier to get to... Great idea

It's on my list

Oh yeah - try to use stainless parts, eh!!!? Stainless steel, brass, copper?,

[Curt Harms]

I'm interested in this also.

I have to say that I'm surprised at the answers here...

Why?

Well - I had to get the some part of the "Borg" type compress (Campbell Hausfeld sp?) and something went wrong on it after a while. It was still under warrenty and got whatever was wrong fixed...

And they told me that the problem was caused by the fact that there was continuous pressure on it and that it should be drained after use...

So that's what I've been told and have been doing. It was a pain when I just wanted to do a couple things...

SOOOOO... it seems you guys have had luck without having to do that. I think I will re-evaluate this concept now... I'll stayed tuned!

I had something similar happen-I got my oilless C-H at Wally World. It was a return. I had the combined pressure switch/unloader valve go bad. I got a replacement from C-H but couldn't get the thing to stop leaking and it was just kinda cheap so I got an inline unloader valve and separate pressure switch from Grainger. Both devices were about $25, The cheapie combo mechanism from C-H was more. Going strong after about a decade of light use.

Curt

[Dennis Lopeman]

I had something similar happen-I got my oilless C-H at Wally World. It was a return. I had the combined pressure switch/unloader valve go bad. I got a replacement from C-H but couldn't get the thing to stop leaking and it was just kinda cheap so I got an inline unloader valve and separate pressure switch from Grainger. Both devices were about $25, The cheapie combo mechanism from C-H was more. Going strong after about a decade of light use.

Curt


Cool - Since I haven't the slightest idea what those are, do you mind taking a sec to find them on grainger's site and post the links?? I know I would appreciate that... and I always love mod'ing my tools to be better!!

Thanks in advance!

edit: I went to grainger and now see what your talking about - how about a pic of your setup instead?

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/productIndex.shtml?L2=Unloader&operator=prodIndexRefinementSearch&originalValue=inline+unloader+valve+&L1=Pump+Valves%2C

[Dennis Lopeman]

Ooooooo - I just thought of another idea!!!

Still doing the idea above with the extension pipes and handle valve thing... but just add another handle valve!! One at the beginning of the line...

Concept - keep that valve open all the time. The water will collect down inside the pipes... When you want to drain out the water, just close it and then open the other one, the water should just drip out...

right? if it doesn't drip out (because of the negative pressure might hold it in (remembering when I was a kid and could invert a glass of water in a glass with a card under it!)), just SLIGHTLY open the other valve to help push the water out...

cool? I think I'll do that. Then only problem might be if your environment is so humid that you collect a LOT of water... maybe make the extension pipes longer to hold more water....

[Greg Hines, MD]

hey - a quick Uncle Google search gave this idea:

http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/workshop/compressor/drain/ball_valve.htm

well - he said that it makes a mess and blows dust and dirty water all over the place...

I have an idea for that - attache a sponge or something right at the opening - some how... maybe a wire cage or the like... it will absorb the water coming out so it won't get balsted all over the floor...

I put a ball joint on mine a long time ago, too... but didn't even think of putting the "extension" tubes on to make it easier to get to... Great idea

It's on my list

Oh yeah - try to use stainless parts, eh!!!? Stainless steel, brass, copper?,


I think that that is a good idea, though I doubt that the extra length of the nipple that he used adds much to the whole contraption, except to make it easier to kick or hit with your foot. If I do something like this, I would make the whole thing shorter, so that it does not extend past the basic outline of the compressor tank, and likely would route it down the tank, under the foot or wheels, so that it jetted out one end or the other.

Doc

[Dennis Lopeman]

right - good idea - don't kick it

BTW - I got some cheap (walmart) steel toe boots for just in my shop...

I have a bigger tank than he does that stands upright. It's mobile, but I will probably make it stationary... and maybe even on a platform to make it easier to drain...

Anyway - I wanted that piping to be longer to hold more water. His smaller unit might not make a lot of water unless he's outside a lot with it... but he can make it got out the back of the unit where the wheels are and still be safe of stubbing his toes!