Yard Sale Find...

[Tony Cox]

The wife and I were driving around this morning and we found some town rummages. We hardly ever stop at yard sales unless something catches our eye. Well, this caught my eye and I stopped to take a look. I asked the lady if she would take $75 and she said yes. I think I got it as someone else came up behind me for it. He didn't stay very long after I said I would take it. It is an older Craftsman and the table is a little rough. Still very usable, so I hope the rest of the saw turns out to be a good buy. I will get better pictures when I get it unloaded. I used my cell phone for this picture. Didn't come out very good.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/n9uye1/SFQXYPfYPmI/AAAAAAAAAcQ/FQEWazQVVtw/img119.jpg?imgmax=640

[Pete Simmons]

Check out

radialarmsawrecall.com

or search on something like that.

You should get a whole new table plus some new guard parts for $0.00

[Ben Cadotte]

Congrats. If you follow the links through sears.com. You should be able to download a free manual for the saw. After following the links you end up at manage my home. The manual will guide you through where all the adjustments are for it to tune it up. I have a newer one and its spot on at the moment. Took about 2 hours for me to dial it in (using a dial indicator :D).

[Mike Keers]

...it was a good find at a fair price. A friend gave me his free (looks identical) complete with manual. It took me several hours to set it up properly, it was far out of adjustment in every way, but now...sweet, especially for the price. :)

I use it almost exclusively as a dedicated tenon cutter with a dado stack on it, but my old Delta chop saw blew up recently and I'm currently using it as a cut-off saw with a decent cross-cut blade until I replace the miter saw.

Keep an eye on the little thumb-nut deals that push on the table to lock the fence in place from the back side. On mine the top is in two pieces, with the fence pinched or clamped between the back narrow table and the fixed front table. Those things are kind of sleazy, and tend to bend down if you tighten them securely, and they also loosen a bit over time, YMMV.
mike

[Mike Keers]

Pete, thanx for that tip, I googled your suggestion and got this:
http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com/ It concerns the blade guard alright.

A direct link to the Emerson Electric recall site. One minute of filling out a web form and the new blade guard is headed my way, or so they say. To get the $100 you need to send them the entire power head however, it's an exchange program I guess. Seems in essence you're disabling your saw and selling it to them for the $100, or the part that matters anyway.

I didn't see anything about the new table tho. But I was so thrilled to get something for nothing, maybe I didn't look around enough. :p

[Jim O'Dell]

Yes, if you go the 100.00 route, you give up your saw. The guard is different. I got it for my old saw, but it died. I finally put the table on the RAS my Dad gave me, but the guard doesn't work right. I'm trying to design a modification that will make it work. It looks like dust collection might be a little better with the new guard. Jim.

[Bill Dunn jr]

I ordered the replacement guard from that site. It looks real nice and I liked the way it operated after I got it on, but man what a pain to change blades. I removed it and put the old one back on. It does come with a new front and rear table and fence.

[Mike Keers]

...You mean even tho I didn't see any mention of it, I might-should get the new table and fence too? That would be worth it even if the guard isn't something I end up using.

Mine is pretty basic and seems to be missing something, perhaps a sliding plastic shield of some sort, it's just the top metal hood part, and it really doesn't work very well for dust collection unless you're cutting very thin stock and pivot the guard way back, exposing a disturbing amount of blade on the front.

And note for Tony, you don't say how much experience you've had with a RAS, but I thought I knew a lot about power tools of all types having used them all of my adult life and professionally at that, but my first (perhaps overly cocky) attempts with the RAS got me into some scary situations real quick where I was lucky to come out counting to ten, or worse.

I stayed away from them for 30 years until I was given this one. I was a bit more cautious, but still had a chunk of wood explode because I just wasn't thinking it all thru and a big piece hit me right in the head and another piece jammed between the guard and blade--it was a real wreck but fortunately, no permanent harm done (except to the piece of work). I tell you, my respect and caution has taken a tenfold leap for that thing.:eek:

[Clara Koss]

looks great!!!!! good luck on it!!!!!

[Don Abele]

Tony, congrats - that's an awesome find. I picked one up about a year ago via a Craig's List ad for the same price. It's a much older version of the Craftsman. Unfortunately, the recall indicates no suitable guard replacement for mine and that I should just send it in for the $100. I guess that would be an easy way to make $25, but I'll keep mine, even without the modified/better guard assembly.

One of the biggest things that I think people do wrong with a RAS is in the blade. These saws have to have a blade with a negative hook to them. The first time I used mine with the blade it came with, I was a little worried about it living up to all the rumors I'd heard about RAS. Once I switched to a negative hook blade, it became a whole new experience.

Like others, I use mine mainly with a dado set for half laps but do occasionally use it for cross cutting anything my 12" CMS won't handle. I don't cross cut anything over about three feet on the table saw.

Be well,

Doc

[Bill Dunn jr]

Yeah Mike,

I found out somehow that they included the tables and fence. By the way, do not throw out any of your fasteners for the old table as you will have to use some of them with the new one. I also got a new manual for mine recently, it was not free but well worth the nine or ten dollars it cost.

[Mike Keers]

Thanx, I'll let everyone know how this shakes out. As mentioned above in a previous post by me, I did get the original manual with mine. After writing another post above about the guard, I went out and looked at the manual and my guard, and apparently all I'm missing is the whole splitter & anti-kick-back device. No loss there as far as I'm concerned, I never had much luck with Sear's version of that stuff on the tablesaw, long ago gone.

To Don Abele, yes I think that's an important point about the hook angle of the blade, and once I put a negative hook blade made for miter and RAS's on mine I noticed a big difference and a lot less drama. It was that 'grabbing' and trying to pull the saw out of your hands that was a bit white knuckled, especially with thick stock (that I would have cut on the miter saw had it still been working). I was just chomping thru some 8/4 rough oak and cherry the past few days, and there was total control.

[Tony Cox]

I have also ordered the recall parts. I will keep everyone updated on what happens.

My dad and I unloaded the saw and I was able to plug it in and make sure it turned on. I tried to cut a small piece just to see how it done and it really had a hard time. I figured the blade was junk. As I was trying to see what the issue was, I noticed the blade was on backwards. :eek: I hope this isn't why they decided to sell it. Having the blade on backwards makes for a very poor cut.;) Just in case you wondered.

I tried to find the manual on the Sears website. They say it isn't available. I will have to keep looking.

More later...
Tony

[Bill Dunn jr]

Hi Tony,

You have to call Sears parts department to get the manual. I have had my saw for 25+ years but when I moved in August of 2006 I somehow lost the manual. I just received the new one a couple of months ago. I went through the same thing with the website.

Your saw should be convertible to 220 if you have it available. I converted mine when I got my shop up and running and I like the difference in the way it starts and runs.

[Dennis Lopeman]

About that recall - IT IS REAL

I had gotten the saw for free (insert bigger gloat!!) from a friend who just didn't want it in his garage anymore... The table that was on there was just plain trash - so I was doing some research to find any "plans" for a new cool and inproved table when I found out about the recall.

I actually went to the site, but it didn't look very "official" so I call the number (after verifying that my serial/model numbers worked). After talking with the lady for a few minutes and realizing that I didn't have to pay anything (even S&H) they got my address.

The table new parts and handle and stuff arrived like 5 days later.

I cleaned the whole saw up, put the shiny new parts on - looks like a new saw - I think it even purrs!! Just follow the directions to the T for installation - even the allignment - you will be happy!

One thing I did, which you might wanna consider - I put a thin "false" top on top of the table they sent... I wanted to preserve THAT top, so a thin sheet of other material attached with counter-sunk screws ensures that my top will stay in good condition. All I would have to replace would be the fence (which I just used a piece of plywood) and this false top...

[Jeffrey Makiel]

I have what appears to be the same exact saw. It was purchased around 1989.

This was the first model that sported a cast aluminum arm and carridge. The bearings in the head carridge were also 'lightened up'. After a couple of years of customer complaints, Sears reverted back to the prior design which had more steel parts and a more tubular arm style.

Mine works OK for crosscutting rough stock or crosscutting, half lapping or dado-ing narrow stock. I've actually had the carridge head come partially off the tracks within the arm while cutting. I almost wet my pants.

My saw doesn't hold its setting real well. It really doesn't matter because there is significant play in the carridge anyway. If I dado or crosscut a board wider than 8", I can begin to see inaccuracy in the cut.

The other thing to look out for is dust getting in the start capacitor's centrifugal switch that prevents the capacitor from working upon motor start up. Instead, the motor would just hum. It's an open motor design which seems to accumulate the dust pretty easily so keep it clean by vacuuming or blowing it out once in a while.

Sears also offered an accessory guard just for dado blades. However, I found that the original guard, and the retrofit recall guard, both being capable of handling a 3/4" dado blade with an 8" dia without issue.

-Jeff :)

[John Keeton]

This was my first "power saw." I vividly remember having the saw on, making a cutoff, and moving the stock across to make another cutoff. Granted, a moment of inexperience and stupidity.

The next thing I remember is the saw fully extended, with a cut line across the stock approximately 1/8" from my left hand. Apparently, the blade contacted a small chunk of wood that dropped into the table kerf. I turned it off, never touched it again, and sold it a few weeks later. Changing the blade to a negative hook probably would greatly reduce the hazard, as would being more attentive to the inherent hazards of a RAS.

But, I just don't think I could ever get past the flashback of that event.

As I recall the saw, accuracy was minimal. But, in those days, my needs were substantially less.

[Tony Cox]

I contacted Emerson about my recall order and I got the following response.

Hello Mr. Cox,
In regards to your order, yes it did go through, it was shipped 6/18/08 you
should see it in about 2 weeks.
You will receive a new table top and guard. There will not be a tracking
number.... but if you have any questions you may call me at 1-800-511-2628.

Thank you,
Katherine
Customer Service

[Dennis Lopeman]

I contacted Emerson about my recall order and I got the following response.

Hello Mr. Cox,
In regards to your order, yes it did go through, it was shipped 6/18/08 you
should see it in about 2 weeks.
You will receive a new table top and guard. There will not be a tracking
number.... but if you have any questions you may call me at 1-800-511-2628.

Thank you,
Katherine
Customer Service



You'll probably see it in less than 2 weeks!

Anyway - what ppl say about almost cutting <insert appendage here> off is not far from the truth. A couple times I have cut stuff on this saw (which does a very nice job, mind you) and the unit practically pulled itself through the wood - and very quickly... I would prefer a little more control than that!!

SO DO be very careful around this thing. And tune it up EXACTLY as they say in the instructions that you will receive.

I haven't used it a ton, so I might not have had the chance to notice it changing its true-ness. I only keep it at 90 degrees for cutting lengths off. If I want angles I'll probably use my miter (which I got for $25, Dewalt 708!!! another shameless gloat!)

I'm going to look into whatever a "negative hook" blade is... to make it "safer"... that new gaurd system, if used correctly, can also help reduce the injury potential...

[Dennis Lopeman]

Hmmmmm - about the "pulling through the wood quickly" thing...

maybe there's a possible way to slow that kind of thing down...... engineer it the same way kick-back gaurds on TS's works or something like that... Or a rubber brake...

I think I'll put my engineering cap on again someday on this.

If I find/invent something, I'll post it here... (after I patent it, of course!) :)

[Tony Cox]

10 years ago or so I worked at a factory that packaged the pre-packaged barns or yard sheds. My job was to cut the rafters using a RAS. I don't remember having any close calls, but then again, my dad done a good job of burning into my brain that I should never get comfortable using a power tool. It is at that point when it will reach up and bite you. Everytime I go to make a cut with a saw, I check and double check what the outcome could be. I know it takes a little longer, but so far I have been blessed to not have any saw related injuries. I hope it stays that way.;)

I am going to get a new blade and it will be a negative hook blade. I already have my eye on a couple. Maybe I will pick one up this weekend.

Have a good weekend,
Tony

[Bill Dunn jr]

Maybe I was doing something wrong, but I had a heck of a time getting a blade on after installing the new guard. Please let me know how you guys make out, maybe I'll put it back on.

[Dennis Lopeman]

Maybe I was doing something wrong, but I had a heck of a time getting a blade on after installing the new guard. Please let me know how you guys make out, maybe I'll put it back on.

Doesn't the gaurd just come off? I mean, with a few turns of a screw or two, of course... I haven't changed a blade yet so I'm not sure how hard it would be...

[Tony Cox]

I am getting ready to find out how it all works. I got home tonight and there was a large package on my front porch. Maybe I will get a chance to open it tonight.

Tony