Sticking Faceplate System

[Ron McKinley]

I have this system from Craft Supplies but constantly have trouble with the faceplates seizing to the hub: http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/store/Lathe_Accessories___Screw_Centers___Faceplates___F aceplate_System___faceplate_system?Args=

Anyone know of a good anti-seizure product similar to Locktite but works in the reverse? Thanks....Ron

[Judy Kingery]

Hi Ron,

For some reason it won't let me pull up your link so I can't see what you have, but I did have one experience with an aluminum faceplate (Craft Supplies) really seizing to the drive which is steel. Anyway, solved that problem by getting a steel faceplate, no problems ever since then at all. Had to do with different heat tolerances someone told me - I was simply glad to have the problem resolved.

So I'm not sure that helps you at all, but I've been pleased with my steel/steel faceplate/drive ever since, no seizure. Hope you get the problem resolved.

PS - Craft Supplies, by the way was absolutely outstanding. Nope, I don't work for them or anything, they had great customer service, refund or credit on that aluminum one, really great. Suited me up with what works now just fine.

Jude

[Bobby Perry]

Have you tried one of these yet??
http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/store/Lathe_Accessories___Spindle_Accessories___No_Lock_ Spindle_Washer___spindle_washer?Args=

[Lee DeRaud]

That hub widget has wrench flats machined onto it, right? One thing that may help is to hold the hub with a wrench and spin off the plate while it's still screwed to the workpiece, rather than removing the assembled faceplate from the workpiece and then trying to take it apart.

[curtis rosche]

try wd-40, or something similar, and also what i have seen work well is taking a rubber or nylon washer and stacking them on the spindle so that the face plate hits the washers right before it bottoms out on the spindle

[curtis rosche]

the no lock spindle washer that the same people that you got the plate from sell.

[Dale Miner]

I think what you are asking for is a product referred to as an anti-sieze compound. Several brands are on the market.

Basically, they are a petroleum vehicle containing small metallic or other particles. This stuff is nasty to work with though, as the vehicle will sling off, and the particles will seemingly get on everthing.

Some of the particles are also poisonous.

Have you tried using a bit of paste wax?

Later,
Dale M

[Ron McKinley]

I've got the spindle washer but the problem is getting the faceplate off the hub, not the headstock spindle.

I just thought about plumber's putty. Think that would work? Thanks....Ron

[Paul Engle]

Sounds llike the register for the hole on the plate is either too small/ out of round or the tenon on the hub is too big or out of round. if you have access to a set of Micrometers to measure it or a locale machinist to spin on the lathe to see if out of true. One way to check at home is High Spot blue compound ( small tube 3-5 $) on the hub side all the way around even coat , assemble the plate to the hub using index marks on both pieces so they align in the same spot each time and where the high spot rubs and looks really thin is where it is hiting the hardest . take some 400 grt w/d and polish the area on the plate hole, clean off the blue , reapply and test again. I think auto parts store may have Dykem Blue or similar Hi Spot blue. I have used it to hi spot / scrap in steam turbine cases etc so that the flanges match up for a 100% seal.

[Doug Miller]

Ron, I think you misunderstood something that was said. Use one of your spindle washers on the hub before you add the faceplate. that out to take care of your problem. Also, you do not want to use plumber's putty. If the threads are seizing now, you can bet that they will seize even more if you use the putty. There is an anti-seize product available at most auto parts stores. Use as little as possible since it will sling. Looks like a nice system.

[Ron McKinley]

There's only 2 threads on the hub that joins to the faceplate so a spindle washer is too thick. Thanks anyway......Ron

[Gene O. Carpenter]

Try cutting such a spacer from a clean plastic milk carton.. Cheaper than $1.88 + $7.63 shpng!
AND if it doesn't work just throw it away...

[Mike Ramsey]

From looking at that face plate kit you really don't have room to
put any size spacer hardly at all, I know almost every auto parts store
sells anti sieze compound that you might try.

[Christopher K. Hartley]

Ron, I use this system almost exclusively as my faceplate system and I love it! I use a red paper type washer between the faceplate and adapter it is about 1/16" or a bit less thick and I use channel lock pliers to break it free. There have been a couple of times where I have had to use a couple of brass pins dropped through the holes in the face plate and down into some holes in a flat surface to hold the assembly and then I use the channel locks. If you are interested I can send you some of the pins and a pic of how I do it. It is a very simple process and doesn't lessen the value of the system for me. All my vacuum chucks, donut chucks and other lathe mounted tools use the system. If you would like I can send pics. Just PM me if you want pics and/or pins, I have plenty of extra pins. I believe this is the faceplat assy. you are referring to. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=61684&d=1175646756

[Ron McKinley]

That's it. E-mail on the way. Thanks.......Ron

[Kennneth Sain]

I am fascinated by your response, "there are only two threads....". What make of lathe has so few threads?:confused:

[Ron McKinley]

It's not the lathe that only has two threads but the hub that screws into the faceplate......Ron

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Ron....Make yourself a wrench. Take a block of wood say a piece of 2x2. Lay the faceplate over it....using the holes in the face plate as a template, mark two of the holes..preferably 180 degrees from each other..onto the 2x2. Now take some screws that will fit through the holes in the faceplate.....screw the screws into the 2x2 where you made the marks. Now cut or grind the head off the screws. The body of the screws should align with the holes in the faceplate. With the hub still on the lathe, put a wrench on the hub..or lock your spindle shaft and insert the newly made "pins" through the hole in the faceplate and wrench it off.


I hope this is understandable.

[Christopher K. Hartley]

Ron, I chose to post here as a benefit to all who may face this problem.


First pic are the components I spoke of, note the paper washer and pins. The washer is I believe an automotive washer found in any auto parts store or, as some have suggested, one can be homemade of various materials. Nylon would also be good.
In pic two, the pins are inserted through opposite faceplate holes into holes in a flat surface. I use the terrible table on my drill press that is as old or older than I am. By doing this It locks the assembly and the channel lock pliers can then break loose the adapter very easily.
This pic is just a closer view of the pin.
Hope this helps you. t works great for me.:)

[Hilel Salomon]

Hi,

Know exactly what you mean, as I have the same problem w/my systems.. Mine are the slightly older set which Highland Hardware carried. Sometimes, they are on so tight that it almost doesn't seem worth the effort... but this is what I've found to work. If you unscrew the faceplate from the blank or bowl and then screw it onto a flat scrap of plywood, put the plywood onto a good bench vise, you can then use a heavy wrench-I use the plumber's type and unscrew the plate from the hub. I wouldn't use putty or WD40 on them. This method is cumbersome but it works.
I now generally use the system on larger donut chucks and they are easy enough to put into vises or even get free without the vise.
Luck, Hilel.

[Ron McKinley]

O.K. That will work. Are those pins a standard item I could get at an auto parts store? Thanks.........Ron

[Gene O. Carpenter]

You can use any bolt that will slip thru the holes! They just act as a "spanner wrench" when this method is used..

[Hilel Salomon]

Ron,

As usual, Chris has a better solution than mine. I'm glad you posted the question as I will now use his solution.

[Scott Conners]

You might also try some PTFE (teflon) tape, it's not really reuseable but it's not expensive and a few wraps (use at least a couple) might really help. It's designed for exactly this.Try to get a wrap to lap over any vertical surfaces that mate when the plate seats too.

I'd personally never put PTFE paste on my lathe, it tends to get everywhere even if you think you've cleaned the joints really well.

[Ron McKinley]

I checked all the plates and each one has a spot on the threads, near the end of the thread, that didn't get plated (with whatever) and each is the same size. Looks like something held them there while they were dunked into the plating solution. I know nothing about metal but it looks like raw steel instead of the silver finish that is everywhere else. Wonder if this could be causing the seizing?

Thanks for all your help. Great response by a great group of people........Ron

[robert baccus]

do it the right way----buy a can of antisiezing compound at a auto supply store. the machinest do.!----------ol forester

[robert baccus]

do it the right way. buy a can of antisiezing dope at your local auto store.-----ol forester