Beginner saw blade question

[David Shleifer]

I have a 12 inch sliding RIGID miter saw and would like to replace the stock blade. I am trying to figure out what blade to get. I don't use it that often, but I will be using to cut moldings. I do plan on cutting 2 x 4 with it from time to time. If I cut 4 x 4 I'm going to use the stock blade. Any advice as to what to buy? I would prefer to spend less (as everyone would). I'm thinking about buying a diablo 96 tooth blade, but I'm not sure. I need advice as to both how many teeth I need and what blade to get.

[Terry Teadtke]

One item I don’t scrimp on is saw blades. The better the blade, the better the cut, longer blade life, and so on. I usually expect to spend $50-$100 or slightly more for a good quality blade but find spending the extra money pays off in the long run. You're going to get some excellent recommendations here and you may want to spend some time at Amazon.com in the saw blade section reading “customer reviews”.



Terry


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[Tom Veatch]

I have a 12 inch sliding RIGID miter saw and would like to replace the stock blade. I am trying to figure out what blade to get. ...

There is an article on the Rockler website, Saw Blades 101 (http://www.rockler.com/articles/display_article.cfm?story_id=72&cookietest=1), that goes into some detail on the differences between various blade geometries and their applications. Granted, it's a sales tool for Rockler, but it has some good basic information you might find useful in selecting a blade for your specific needs wherever you buy your blades.

(No affiliation with Rockler other than as an occasional customer.)

[scott spencer]

Here's an excellent closeout deal on a high quality (http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB4&Number=3693673&Forum=f4&Words=&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Main=3664883&Search=true&where=bodysub&Name=33376&daterange=1&newerval=1&newertype=m&olderval=&oldertype=&bodyprev=#Post3693673) German 12" blade made by Leitz for Delta. 12"
Delta 12" 35-654 80 tooth, ATB ,1" bore, neg 6 degree hook,.125 kerf, $25

Here's another...Holbren offers some great deals on the Oshlun line (http://www.holbren.com/manufacturers.php?manufacturerid=12&catid=673) (formerly Avenger). Surprising quality for the price. Use "SMC10" discount code for 10% off. Looks like a positive hook angle though.

96 teeth is on the high side...it'll give a great fine cut but will cut a bit slower in thick dense material. The Diablo will also be a thin kerf. A 12" diameter is a large span and is more prone to flex with a TK. The Leitz blade has a negative hook which is desirable for a sliding miter saw, and it's a full 1/8" kerf AFAIK.

[Jeremy Monge]

Here's an excellent closeout deal on a high quality (http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB4&Number=3693673&Forum=f4&Words=&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Main=3664883&Search=true&where=bodysub&Name=33376&daterange=1&newerval=1&newertype=m&olderval=&oldertype=&bodyprev=#Post3693673) German 12" blade made by Leitz for Delta. 12"
Delta 12" 35-654 80 tooth, ATB ,1" bore, neg 6 degree hook,.125 kerf, $25...

This is what a lot of folks fail to realize is essential on a chop saw blade. The negative rake is needed due to the nature of the cut. Think about it, you are cutting across the grain in a plunging motion. If you have a more aggressive tooth blade, (ie positive hook/rake) what happens to the wood fibers on the trailing end of the blade? Rather than being shaved/scraped out leaving a nice crisp edge they get pushed out resulting in a cut that looks like you broke the piece over your knee!:D Well maybe not that bad, but definitely a significant difference.

[Peter Quinn]

I'm using the Freud LU91 series thin kerf blade on a 10 SCMS. It makes a glass smooth cut on trim when sharp, its probably not a blade I'd use for thicker stuff or framing. I get a little deflection in the 10" size if I'm pushing to fast, but if I slow down a bit an let the saw make the cut its spot on. Not sure I'd want a thin kerf blade in the 12" size, but they do make one.

Its nice to have a blade with far less teeth and bigger gullets for cutting framing lumber. Fir and yellow pine sure gum up a high tooth cound blade quick.

Negative hook angle is a must which ever blade you choose. Get a blade made for a slider.