Bumping up the power in my garage.

[Ryan Sparreboom]

Next weekend I have a buddy who is a commercial electrician coming over to help me upgrade the electrical in my garage / shop.
Right now there is a single 15Amp 110v circuit powering everything in there. Needless to say, when I have the lights on, the music playing, the Shopvac and the tablesaw running, I tend to blow the breaker every time.

So I want to add about 6 110v double outlets, spread out around the walls and ceiling. So far all of my tools run on 110v, and I have no real plan of upgrading them soon. I can't see ever getting any 220v tools except maybe a tablesaw, for the type of work I do. So should I bother to add a 220v line or not bother for the added expense?
Also, for 6 110v outlets, how many amps should that be? 3 15amp lines? 2 30 amp lines? More?
If I'm running several 15 amp tools at the same time, I don't want to blow breakers. I have lots of room on my panel to add more breakers, or should I just add a sub-panel right in the garage and have everything run off the breakers in there? How hard is that to do?
I also plan on adding radient heaters in there that run off gas, do they require a power supply as well?
Thanks.

[Von Bickley]

Ryan,
If you have a buddy that is an electrician, go ahead and install a sub-panel in your shop. I would run a #6 copper cable and put in a sub-panel. I would probably surface mount the sub-panel and run emt conduit and have all the electrical equipment accessable.
If you have a sub-panel in the shop and want to add 220 outlets in the future, everything would be there.:)

[Dewey Torres]

Also, put all of your 110v circuits on 20 amp breakers. Consider one circuit for each side of the shop and one separate for the lights... this way, they won't dim when you turn your tools on. With the 20 amp circuits, you will have the extra power where you need it of you ever need to move your tools around.

I would at least put one 220V in if you don't plan on moving anytime soon. It seems only a matter of time before woodworkers seem to spot a 220v tool or dust collector they can't live without.

Dewey

[David Freed]

Also, put all of your 110v circuits on 20 amp breakers. Consider one circuit for each side of the shop and one separate for the lights... this way, they won't dim when you turn your tools on. With the 20 amp circuits, you will have the extra power where you need it of you ever need to move your tools around.

I would at least put one 220V in if you don't plan on moving anytime soon. It seems only a matter of time before woodworkers seem to spot a 220v tool or dust collector they can't live without.

Dewey

I found one of those tools once, when I had my shop in my basement. I wired it with its own circuit and breaker in my 200 amp breaker box, but with a 7 1/2 hp motor, it would dim the lights in the whole house when I turned it on.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Ryan,

Your electrician buddy should be able to give you some practical advice based on his experience.

When I built my shop, I put in 200 amp service, I have 5 120vac 20 amp circuits. I have 2 120 vac circuits feeding outlets down the east wall and 2 circuits feeding outlets down the west wall. Every other outlet is on the other circuit. I have the 5th 120 vac circuit feeding outlets in the ceiling. I have 2 120vac circuits feeding my lighting. I also have 8 240 vac circuits.

[Dewey Torres]

but with a 7 1/2 hp motor, it would dim the lights in the whole house when I turned it on.

I was thinking (based on his post) that Ryan doesn't have such a tool...

Man, 7 1/2 hp!?! :eek:

Ok Ryan, my advice will work for MOST instances :)

Dewey

[Ryan Sparreboom]

O.K. So I should definitely go with the sub panel and run the circuits off there?
Now, I'm sure my buddy Kurt could answer this, but if the circuits are 20 Amp, and I want to run say a DC and Tablesaw at the same time and both draw 15 Amps, will I not run out of juice? Should I have 30 Amp circuits?
With a sub-panel I can add 220 later if I want?

[Tom Veatch]

... Should I have 30 Amp circuits?
With a sub-panel I can add 220 later if I want?

30 amp circuits? I'd advise against it unless you want to run 10ga wire and replace all the plugs on your tools with 30 amp plugs because the outlets willl have to be rated for 30 amps (NEMA 5/6-30). If you have two tools that will run concurrently and draw greater than 20 amps total, they should be on separate circuits.

With the subpanel, you can add circuits, 110 or 220, at a later date as long as the panel has available breaker slots.

Ken gave you the best advice you are going to get here. Talk to your electrician buddy, express your concerns, detail out any plans you might have, and let him/her use his/her experience and expertise to give you what you want and need now and for future plans - and will meet code requirements.

[Rob Russell]

O.K. So I should definitely go with the sub panel and run the circuits off there?
Now, I'm sure my buddy Kurt could answer this, but if the circuits are 20 Amp, and I want to run say a DC and Tablesaw at the same time and both draw 15 Amps, will I not run out of juice? Should I have 30 Amp circuits?
With a sub-panel I can add 220 later if I want?

Upgrading a subpanel from 120v to 240v means running new cable - you need an extra hot conductor for the 240v. If you're running a new cable from your service panelboard to feed this upgraded subpanel - I'd just make it a 240v subpanel.


I would run a #6 copper cable and put in a sub-panel. I would probably surface mount the sub-panel and run emt conduit and have all the electrical equipment accessable.


I wouldn't run #6 copper - #2 aluminum is cheaper and gives you a higher ampacity rating.

Unless the cable is "subject to damage", you could run #2 aluminum SER and use that to feed up to a 75 amp subpanel where #6 copper NM-cable would only allow up to a 60 amp subpanel. I haven't checked, but I'd guess that the price difference between #2 aluminum THHN/THWN and #6 copper THHN/THWN is similar to the cable, i.e. that copper is more expensive.

Bottom line - cable or conduit, I'd look at aluminum. If you have to run conduit, you would still need #6 copper for a 60 amp subpanel. You could pull #4 aluminum for a 60 amp subpanel. The #4 might push you up 1 size in conduit, but I doubt that would eat up the cost savings of using aluminum conductors.

[Von Bickley]

I wouldn't run #6 copper - #2 aluminum is cheaper and gives you a higher ampacity rating.



I only run aluminum when I have to. He didn't say how far he would have to run.
I hate aluminum......;)

[Josh Mountain]

A #2 aluminum SER should allow for 100 amp sub depending on interpretation/version of NEC by your local jurisdiction. Of course as stated needs to not be subject to damage / protected etc. This is for a short run taking voltage drop into consideration etc. Subpanel is the way to go.

I wouldn't take the advice of putting a separate circuit on each side of shop. That would probably result in less runs but you limit your shop flexibility. I just re-did my garage electricals and put a bank of 4 circuits in several locations (including ceiling receptacles). A couple hundred bucks in copper investment to not have to to it again.

As stated 20a is the way to go for the circuits. Nothing you get on 120v will exceed that. For multiple high draw devices, you will have the flex to use the different circuit receptacles. (I color coded my receptacles so I can keep the circuits straight). If you are concerned with future growth, the 20A dedicated 220/240 will take care of most any item 5hp and below (running one machine at a time). You could run a 30a 240 if you think a welder or 7 hp device might be an option (again new plugs on that one tool required).

If you don't see getting any 240v machines any time soon, don't hang out at SMC (they will corrupt you :) ) you could always put in the four wire 20 amp circuit that allows for 2 simultaneous 120v or one 240. As always check with someone who understands your local code as this may or may not be good with inspectors.

[Billy Dodd]

Ryan, to answer your question about the lights going dim. When you put in a subpanel everything will depend on the amps you have brought to it. If you have 200 amp service to your home you can split that up and send 100 amp out to your shop. As others have stated I would use #2 aluminum which is what your buddy will probably do. Once you have your 100amp in the shop or however many amps you allow into the shop from either a breaker off your main panel or breaker box in your house. You split that up with breakers in your subpanel. Say 2 30 amp breakers and 2 20 amp. 60 + 40 = 100amps which is allowed. What you want to try and do is place your outlets where you won't go over the amount of amps on a breaker. A note here: if you go with a 30 amp breaker you'll need a bigger wire for the outlets that's hooked to it so you don't melt the wire and burn the shop down. Someone may correct me but i think for 30 amps you need #10 wire. Anyway You can add up the amps you use with tablesaw and anything else you might use at the same time and see how many amps that is and as long as you don't go over the breaker size and what's coming in the lights won't flicker. It's easier to do it right the first time then to have to redo it again later so get at least 100amps out there if you can. The only way I could get 200 amps to my shop like Ken would be to put in a dedicated service. The reason most people put outlets on a wall to a breaker like all on the north wall to 1 breaker and all on east wall to another is if you are working on 1 side and have say a fan on the other or someone else doing something on the other you won't loose any power and it's alot easier to chase down problems if all the outlets go dead on 1 wall you know what breaker it is.

Hope this clears up a few things for you. Just my $.02 worth.

[Josh Mountain]

Just to clarify, adding up devices current draw on a particular circuit and sizing appropriate breaker won't work so well for 120v stuff. You'll want that to be all 20a (or as it was said above you will have to replug your hand tools. As I said before not a bad option to run a 30A 240v (in addition to another 240v and your 120) if you/he is pulling conductors for conduit anyways. As billy states the 30a will require 10awg conductors and hefty NEMA plugs/recept). The beauty of the subpanel is you can always add that if the need arises.

If you can have him get you a 100A sub and run at least two 120v circuits and one 240v (all 20A) that would be a pretty good weekend project. Duplicate the set if three outlets anywhere you might want to put gear. Of course if you're thinking the 240 will be for future table saw, think about the dust collector you would want to get next. That's two 240v items running simultaneously. . . You can see where you can end up in a hurry. That's why most push for max outlets and circuits. You'll end up using 'em!

[Tom Drummond]

Having just done this myself (100 amp panel in a detached garage), I am very happy that I kept the old 110v line separate. I put half of the fluorescent light fixtures (every other one) on the old circuit that breaks at my house and the other half on a circuit from the new panel. This enables me to work on electricity and still have lights.

[Ryan Sparreboom]

Well thanks again for all the help here guys. I wired up my basement myself when I refinished that, so I have some basic knowledge, but everything was just run on 15A circuits so it was easy.

So this will be done next Saturday (the 21st) so I still have a bit of time to plan.
Currently (no pun) the main panel for the house (200A) is in the basement. The attached garage is already wired for lights and 3 outlets which I plug everything into right now. This circuit will stay and still just be for lights, the garage opener, the radio and such small things. No problem there.

Then I will run wire from that panel in the basement to the subpanel in the garage. If I go 100A does that take away from what's in the house already so I will be down to 100 there too? Or will it still be 200A in the house plus 100A in the garage?
What gauge wire do I need for that run? 6, 8? It's about a 35 foot distance.

As far as using aluminum wire goes. I've never heard of that being done around here, and don't see it sold in the elec. dept. of the box stores I regularly go to. Maybe it doesn't meet code here? Not sure but I will stick with copper.
Because the walls are already drywalled, the wires will run in front, along the foundation wall, which is about 12" off the floor. The wire will likely be armored wire, instead of screwing around with running conduit.
So why do I heed 20A circuits? and not just 15A like in the house? Non of the tools draw over 15A and if I'll have to run any simultaneous tools on seperate circuits anyway...? So I plan on 14/2 armoured wire.

I talked to my buddy, and he suggested that each receptacle (2 plugs, one top, one bottom) could run on 2 circuits. So that 1 15A run will power the top plug on say 3 outlets. Another 15A run will power the bottom plugs on those same 3 outlets. That would allow me to plug in my table saw and my shop vac into the same outlet but they'll be on seperate circuits. I would color code the plugs so I know which ones run on the same circuit.
Thoughts on that?
If I do 15A circuits. I could add 4 runs (60A total) and then what do I need to have room for a 220 line later, another 20A line? So I need 80A sub-panel? Or hould I just go 100A sub-panel and have the room to add later if needed?

Anything I'm missing or forgetting? Are there guidelines as to where I can put the sub-panel (inside wall, outside wall, height off the floor etc??)

Thanks.

[Art Mulder]

Boy you're getting inundated with advice!
(I'm not an electrician, just a DIYer who reads a lot, and has been around a while.)


O.K. So I should definitely go with the sub panel and run the circuits off there?

A sub panel means that if you want to add any future circuits, then you can just work from the panel already in your garage, instead of having to "home run" wires all the way to the main panel. Makes things easier. Also for wiring now, it means you only need to run ONE wire from the main panel to the shop, instead of several wires.

Now, one thing about advice on these forums that you need to watch out for... It is very easy to end up with a huge "upsell" if you try to listen to ALL the advice. There are lots of guys out there with very nice shops, with lots of very nice features... but you CAN get by with much less. (and in this case, "much less" also means "much lest cost to you!)

If you are running a one-person hobby shop, then at MOST you are going to usually have three possible things running at once: The tool you are using, the Dust Collector, and the lights/radio. You could, therefore, quite likely manage to run your shop happily with just THREE circuits in total. The realities of your installation may call for more, but just remember that when you see advice for umpteen circuits and 200 amp shops.



Now, I'm sure my buddy Kurt could answer this, but if the circuits are 20 Amp, and I want to run say a DC and Tablesaw at the same time and both draw 15 Amps, will I not run out of juice?

Your DC and your TS should not be on the same circuit. Full stop.



I talked to my buddy, and he suggested that each receptacle (2 plugs, one top, one bottom) could run on 2 circuits. So that 1 15A run will power the top plug on say 3 outlets. Another 15A run will power the bottom plugs on those same 3 outlets. That would allow me to plug in my table saw and my shop vac into the same outlet but they'll be on seperate circuits. I would color code the plugs so I know which ones run on the same circuit.
Thoughts on that?

Bingo. This is a great idea, and one I wish I'd done myself.

A for the other questions (size of sub panel, location, etc)... you've already got a buddy who is a licensed electrician for Edmonton... Listen to his advice. He'll know how many amps you'll need in your sub panel and tell you what your future growth is. I do suggest you make it possible to add 220 in future, if not now. And DC that is 2HP or more is probably 220. Any future TS that is 2HP or more is probably 220. Large jointers and planers also can demand 220, but those are less common.


Then I will run wire from that panel in the basement to the subpanel in the garage. If I go 100A does that take away from what's in the house already so I will be down to 100 there too? Or will it still be 200A in the house plus 100A in the garage?

If the house is 200amp then 200amp is the maximum that you can run at any one time, and that includes any subpanel that is fed off of the main panel. So no, it is NOT 100 + 200. But neither is it really 200 minus 100 for the rest of the house.

If you go look at your main panel and add up all the amp settings on the breakers it probably adds up to more than the 200amp listed on the main breaker. Like I said, the 200 is the maximum.

Based on my earlier comments about a 1 man shop and how many tools you need, I think that most of us, with the 'normal' range of tools, can get by just fine with a 40 amp sub panel to the shop. But I know there are rules for how large a panel would need to be, based on number of circuits and so on, and that's another question for your friend.

best wishes,
Art Mulder

[Josh Mountain]

Ryan, Art makes good points about having things "too" upgraded costing you bucks you may never benefit from. Here's my continued advice (from a guy that's wired several shops/ old houses all permitted and to code but not a licensed electrician -- but elect engineer):

The cost of putting in the two circuits (from subpanel) for tools at 20A vice 15 is very small compared to possible benefits. Receptacles will cost an extra dollar or so and you'll run 12awg vice 14. Especially if you don't put 240v in right now, you could definitely run a 110/120v compressor or dc at slightly more than 15A. It also allows you to have smaller devices ( battery chargers, fans) plugged in while using 15A router, etc. Keep in mind a breaker will allow more than it's rating for specified amounts of time for things like startup, etc. But if you want to plug a space heater into your hand tool circit because the air compressor is kicking on your second circuit you'd have a problem. Again a pretty good benefit for not a lot out of pocket.

If you're gonna put in 100A sub, you'll need a very large wire. While aluminum isn't used in home wire too often in North America, it is used for feeders and service entries commonly because of the big difference in price. Remember we were talking about #2 conductors (times four) for the alum SER this is about $1.75 per foots (for all 4 conductors). No box stores don't sell this nor have I ever seen them sell #2 copper except in black sheathing. You will need a white, black, green, and red for same structure sub. Your electrician will be able to get whatever is req for the sub. Since you're in planning stages, you've got to ask yourself if you need 100a at the sub. Yes nice to have especially if you started going with multiple 240v pieces, but many shopscan get by with 60A. Does this mean only 3 20A circuits? As Art points out you could run for example 100a worth of breakers or so as long as simultaneous draw was less than the capacity breaker in the main (in this case 60A). If memory serves you can run #6 wire instead of #2 and that saves lots of bucks. Could do a load calc at both panels, but for a STD house with STD stuff, you'll be fine.

[Rob Russell]

If you're gonna put in 100A sub, you'll need a very large wire. While aluminum isn't used in home wire too often in North America, it is used for feeders and service entries commonly because of the big difference in price. Remember we were talking about #2 conductors (times four) for the alum SER this is about $1.75 per foots (for all 4 conductors). No box stores don't sell this nor have I ever seen them sell #2 copper except in black sheathing. You will need a white, black, green, and red for same structure sub. Your electrician will be able to get whatever is req for the sub. Since you're in planning stages, you've got to ask yourself if you need 100a at the sub. Yes nice to have especially if you started going with multiple 240v pieces, but many shopscan get by with 60A. Does this mean only 3 20A circuits? As Art points out you could run for example 100a worth of breakers or so as long as simultaneous draw was less than the capacity breaker in the main (in this case 60A). If memory serves you can run #6 wire instead of #2 and that saves lots of bucks. Could do a load calc at both panels, but for a STD house with STD stuff, you'll be fine.

Josh,

2-2-2-4 aluminum SER cable is pretty much a stock item at all of the "big box" stores in my area, which would be Home Depot and Lowes.

I was in HD today. As I posted earlier,m even if you only want a 60 amp subpanel - it's cheaper to run the 2-2-2-4 SER than it is to run 6-3NM copper. The SER was $1.92/foot and the 6-3 copper NM cable was $2.62/foot.

Rob

[Josh Mountain]

Sounds good. My home depot & lowes didn't. Ordered mailorder. Rob has a good point that copper is considerably more expensive. If you're going to use a service entry cable (like SER) need to provide it "protection from physical damage" as it runs from basement to garage.

This option again provides more versatility and expandability. Good luck!

[Rob Russell]

Sounds good. My home depot & lowes didn't. Ordered mailorder. Rob has a good point that copper is considerably more expensive. If you're going to use a service entry cable (like SER) need to provide it "protection from physical damage" as it runs from basement to garage.

This option again provides more versatility and expandability. Good luck!

"Protection from physical damage" for SER is no different than wht would be required for NM-cable. If the specific installation requires conduit and individual conductors, I think you'd find that upsized aluminum conductors would still be significantly cheaper than individual copper conductors.

[Randall Davis]

Unless the cable is "subject to damage", you could run #2 aluminum SER and use that to feed up to a 75 amp subpanel where #6 copper NM-cable would only allow up to a 60 amp subpanel. I haven't checked, but I'd guess that the price difference between #2 aluminum THHN/THWN and #6 copper THHN/THWN is similar to the cable, i.e. that copper is more expensive.


#2 aluminum SER is rated for 100 amps.

[Josh Mountain]

"Protection from physical damage" for SER is no different than wht would be required for NM-cable. If the specific installation requires conduit and individual conductors, I think you'd find that upsized aluminum conductors would still be significantly cheaper than individual copper conductors.

Yes! Point being if we were comparing a bundled cable (SER or NM-b) to a conduit run. I think we're on the same page.

[Rob Russell]

Unless the cable is "subject to damage", you could run #2 aluminum SER and use that to feed up to a 75 amp subpanel where #6 copper NM-cable would only allow up to a 60 amp subpanel. I haven't checked, but I'd guess that the price difference between #2 aluminum THHN/THWN and #6 copper THHN/THWN is similar to the cable, i.e. that copper is more expensive.


#2 aluminum SER is rated for 100 amps.

Randall,

I see that the first part of your post was a "quote" of my earlier post, so your point is that SER is rated for 100 amps.

Why do you say that #2 aluminum is rated for 100 amps?

[Ben Cadotte]

First off if you have 200 amp service to your house. That is the max you can pull from the electric supply before you trip your main breaker. So if you install a 100amp panel in the garage it does not mean your normal panel is now down to 100 also. You still have 200amps available.

One question no one asked is how many open spaces do you have in your house panel? If you are down to say 6 or less. It would be better to add a sub panel where you think it is best. It could be right next to the main house panel. But if you are wanting to add more circuits to the garage, and may want to add more later on. Then putting it in the garage is best.

As for size of the sub panel. The prices are so close for 60 to 100 amp panels it just deppends on if you want to spend another $5 to $10. I went with a 100 amp sub as I wanted the larger number of circuits the 100amp panel allowed.

I also went with aluminium ser cable to power the sub panel. I actually went oversized than what is required and still spent less than copper.

I would suggest going with 20amp circuits, even with using duplex circuits in the same box. You will still be putting multiple outlets on the same wiring (just the tops on one circuit, and bottoms on another). So even though you will only have 1 tool in the top one and one in the bottom one. You may have something else plugged into either one some where else (like radio, fan, tv, battery chargers, ???). So for just a little bit more in wire (breakers same price) you will have a little overage protection.

What I actually did was run one 20amp and one 15amp circuit down the center, then seperate ones down the outside walls. So in total 3 different 20amp, and 3 different 15amp circuits. I used propper 20amp outlets for that circuit so you know buy just looking at the outlet which is 15 and which is 20 (20 amp have the extra - in them).

[Josh Mountain]

Rob and Randall . . . . There is a good discussion of sub wire sizing at http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?referrerid=5960&t=78796

My electrical plans were approved, permit issued and passed inspection with 2/2/2/4 SER. Some areas apparently are not the case.

Ryan, if your electrician is of your area, he ought to have an idea of AHJ interpretation of NEC2005 or whatever reference they use. As a side note, aluminum is very safe when installed correctly (proper torque and deox). Many homes wired in the 50s to receptacles with alum were a safety hazard. As you're hearing from many creekers, alum is good to go for a panelrun.

[Brandon Hoye]

Ryan,
One thing that hasn't been mentioned that your friend will probably mention is the fact that running a 240v subpanel gives you twice the ampacity of just 120v. meaning you won't need nearly as many amps as you may think.

Here's an example:
say you decided to run 120v, 40 amps to a small subpanel. This would be one hot wire (usually black), one neutral (also known as a grounded conductor, usually white), and one ground (also known as equipment ground, usually green or bare). This would allow you to run up to 40 amps worth of equipment at the same time. Most Hobbyists would never exceed this.

Say you decide to add 1 more wire (usually red) connected to the other leg (generally called phase) in your main panel to your subanel. This is only the cost of one more wire and another 40A circuit breaker, but now you have 40A 240v capability. This also means that you have added another 40 amps of 120v capacity. assuming the circuits were split up correctly in the panel, you really now have a total of 80A capacity at 120v. If you go over that, you've taken woodworking way past a hobby level.

Even better, if you buy tools that have 120/240 capability, you can maximize your 40A even better. Here's how:

my tablesaw draws 13 amps at 120V, but only 6.5 amps per leg when wired for 240v. This means less voltage drop (I found startups much smoother and slightly more power this way) and I've still got 33.5 amps per leg available, for a total 67 amps.

With that, assuming I had them plugged into the right circuits, I could still also run my planer, router, 2 shop vacs, all my lights and a stereo all at the same time. Do you think you'll ever do that?

[Ryan Sparreboom]

Well I got this upgrade to my shop done this weekend. And I am a happy man! Here's what we did.
100 Amp subpanel in the garage (rated for 100 amp)
Ran 60 Amps to it. 60 amp double pole breaker from the main panel in the house, 6 gauge wire from the main panel to subpanel.
For now, ran 20 amps x2 to 3 receptacles along the north and west wall. Each of those three receptacles are split so the top and bottom outlet run off seperate 20 amp runs. Used 12/3 wire (BX) to achieve this.
Ran a seperate 15 amp run along the east wall with 2 receptacles on it. (Used 14/2 BX)
The receptacles are enclosed metal types, mounted to studs on the outside of the wall. This means that both ends of each run are accessible to add more to that run.
There is also a ton more room in the sub-panel to add more runs. Including 240v lines if I want. (We only used 3 of 8 breaker spots in the panel)

This should be more than enough for now to run several pieces of equipment at the same time. With room to upgrade to anything I will ever need in the future. (I will never get a welder or anything requiring that much juice) The lights, garage door opener, and 2 outlets still run off the original 15 run that was put in when the garage was built, which is fine. I may add more lights to the end of one of the new runs, or make a new run for more lights if I want.

How does this sound?

[Rob Russell]

Ryan,

120v receptacles in a garage must be GFCI-protected. You can't do that with 12/3 and "split-wire" the receptacles, unless you used the casing of the BX as your EGC.

You need separate neutral conductors for the top and bottom halves of the receptacles if you want to split wire it and maintain the GFCI-protection.

The GFCI requirement is straight out of the code [per 210.8.(A)(2)], for US residents. This is one of the first things that house inspectors look for, so you might as well deal with this now.

I know that you're in Canada, so it's the CEC that would apply, but I have to believe that the GFCI-requirement is similar.

Did you GFCI-protect the receptacles or is that just a normal "multi-wire" circuit?

Enjoy the new power!

Rob

[Ryan Sparreboom]

There is nothing in code here that says the garage outlets have to be GFCI protected. If there was, the outlets that were already in place when the house was built would not have passed inspection, my electrician would have known about it too.