What glue to use?

[john hold]

Hi Members,

I'm new to the forum and would like your opinions please on an outdoor project that will require a lot of glue.
I'm building an arbor with side seats. It will be made from red cedar. There will be two arches ( and 4 post) in line with each other that will connect with some type of lattice work with a set of swinging doors in between. The smaller arch will have a 20 inch radius and the outside arch will have a 44 inch radius. The posts and both arches will be made of 3 laminated 2x's. Real dimensions will be a 5 inch by 4.5. I'll cut the arches from 2x12's. The inner arch layer will be made of 4 pieces and the 2 outer layers will be made of 3 pieces so that I can face glue the 3 layers together with overlapping seems. I'll connect the arches to the post using a 3 inch full tenon that will be a part of the middle layer of each side of the arches. I'll leave a 3 inch gap in each post top to accept the arch tenon.
The piece will be finished with an outdoor paint.
My concern is the glue. I'd like to avoid creep but want ease of use and durability. Your opinions are much appreciated. Thanks.

[Chris Friesen]

I'm new to the forum and would like your opinions please on an outdoor project that will require a lot of glue. .... My concern is the glue. I'd like to avoid creep but want ease of use and durability.

I'd probably go with a decent grade of epoxy. West Ssytem, System Three, Industrial Formulators, etc. Waterproof, rigid, and gap filling.

Titebond III is likely waterproof enough, but could creep over time. Polyurethane could work, but it works best on tight joints.

[Lee Schierer]

I built an outdoor swing over 15 years ago from wester red cedar. It has been outside all summer long in NW PA every year since I made it. The three main frame pieces were glued with Elmers Resorcinol glue. Not one has cracked or showed signs of weakening. It is totally water proof.

[Mike Henderson]

Titebond 3 should work for you. And it's less expensive than epoxy.

But epoxy will work very well, also.

Mike

[john hold]

Thanks guys. I'd like to use the titebond III but I'm concerned about creep. Should I be?

[Tom Veatch]

Thanks guys. I'd like to use the titebond III but I'm concerned about creep. Should I be?

What is the anticipated "creep" result that concerns you? Glue line ridges? Other?

[Chris Padilla]

I'm building a gate out of WRC and have chosen the longest open-time glue I could because my glue-up is going to be a bit painful and I'll need the time. For that, a 30-minute open-time epoxy was my choice otherwise, I would have gone with the TB-III but I fear it will set on me too quickly.

With an outdoor project, I wouldn worry much about PVA creep...there will be other things the great outdoors will do to your project to worry about seeing such fine details like PVA creep. Besides, it appears you plan to paint the project so use the TB-III and forget about creep.

[J. Z. Guest]

I'd use Titebond III and "clamp" with screws to prevent creep.

I'm building an adirondack loveseat this way, and I think it's going to work out great.

Epoxy for a project this big would be very expensive. Also, epoxy works best if it has some room. (no clamping needed)

I wouldn't hesitate to use poly glue either.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Thanks guys. I'd like to use the titebond III but I'm concerned about creep. Should I be?

For outdoor furniture? No. The wood will be moving all over the place from normal humidity swings

[john hold]

Okay then, Titebond III it is. Thanks.