table saw opinion - contractor or hybrid?

[Leo Zick]

well, i think i need a table saw. every little thing i do becomes limited by lack of straight cuts. making drawers for my router table is turning into an impossibility!

i know when you see the biggest and best you assume you need it, but other than rips and dados, i dont see myself doing too much more right now.

ive used a dewalt benchtop saw, and with a 27" rip, and overall functionality, it seems too small. cabinet saws are too big, despite some reviews saying they are smaller than contractor saws. i dont have that much room, so im assuming im limited to a 30" cut width.

also, if i buy, lets say, a delta 36-982 or 36-715, can i add a larger fence in the future? What about adding an outfeed table?

what about tilt direction? does that matter? i dont see why they cant tilt both ways.

Also, are hybrid saws around the same size as a contractor saw?

from what ive seen, im guessing these are my requirements:
-decent sized footprint.
-something i can move if necessary
-riving knife or splitter would be nice
-30" fence?
-cost: up to $1200?

Thanks for the help.. going to woodcraft today just made me drool on the sawstop :p

[Jim Becker]

Go hybrid over contractors' style for sure! Better design...and takes up less space than a contractors' style saw. But your budget also puts a 3hp cabinet saw likely in your reach, too, for something like the well liked Grizzly 1023 SL as long as you can provide the 220v circuit to run it.

[Cary Falk]

I agree with Jim for $1200 I wouldn't waste my time with a hybrid. Go Grizzly 1023 or the SC TI coated saw at Woodworker's Supply on sale for $1199 with free ship and freight. Put a splitter on it and you will be fine.

[Paul Ryan]

Like others have said for, $1200 you can get one hell of a nice saw, alot better than a contractors. I owned a contractors style saw for a little over a year and was not impressed. Check out the steel city web site and find a local distrubutor. The SC entry saw sells for around $899 and will be a great saw for you. For $1200 you can get a 2008 design with a riving knife which I highly reccomend. If you went that route you would never need another table saw. My SC saw takes up less room than the jet contractors I had. With 30 in rails it is about 64 in long about 33 in deep and 35 tall to the top of the table. You dont have to have 220. Any saw with less than 2hp will run off of 110 if that is all you have. If you have 2 open slots in a near circuit breaker box adding 220 is real easy too. But a saw with 1 1/2 - 1 3/4 hp will cut anything you need it too. Check out the grizzly web site too, I don't have any experience with there saws but it sounds like there are well liked.

[glenn bradley]

I replaced my contractor with a hybrid. Happy guy.

[Dewey Torres]

Easy recommendations:

1) Ditch the contractor saw idea altogether. Even the (arguably) best the contractor saw (some say Sawstop) costs more than your budget and still won't be a good as a hybrid or Cabinet saw.

2) If you want new, go with the hybrid. You can afford just about any of the hybrids and with some models you will still have a bit of change left for a mobile base or other accessories. (By the way, you will want a mobile base!)

3) If you can live with used, please know that $1200 will buy you a great older cabinet saw ... but here's the thing... they are not like a loaf of bread where they go bad over a short period of time.
Chances are, if you are buying from a true woodworker (take a look at the shop in the back ground of the pics/ in person for clues), you will be about %95 insured that you will get a saw that with some minor tweaks will make you say "Contractor saw... what is that?"

Have fun shopping! Oh... and take your time.

Dewey

[scott spencer]

Contractor saws and hybrids have much in common... a hybrid is essentially an updated contractor saw with the benefit of having the motor mounted inside the cabinet. They have similar blade power, electrical requirements, table size, price, duty ratings, etc. Fence and wing options are about the same between both types.

The original contractor saws were designed ~ 60 years ago with an external motor intended for easy removal to make them more transportable to jobsites. With the invention of the true portable jobsite saw, the contractor saw has primarily been relegated to use as a stationary saw. The benefit of the outboard motor becomes a liability as stationary saw and poses several issues....they take up additional space at the back of the saw, they require openings to the enclosure which make dust collection problematic, they require a longer drive belt which decreases power transfer and increases vibration, and perhaps most importantly they create leverage against the trunnion carriage because of the way they're cantilevered off the back, which in turn poses more difficulty holding the alignment....especially if the motor hits something while being tilted.

Hybrids address most of the issues of the traditional contractor saw design. The motor is tucked inside and out of the way, which offers a smaller footprint, better DC, shorter drive belt, less leverage on the carriage, usually more mass, and no "lifting" hazard. Hybrids offer many of the advantages of a full cabinet saw, but with a lower duty rating, less power, and will run on 110v circuits. Some even offer cabinet mounted trunnions which are easier to align. There are several advantages and literally no downside to this design relative to a contractor saw in most cases.

An industrial grade cabinet saw trumps them all. They do have a smaller footprint with a standard 30" fence than a contractor saw...essentially the same footprint as a hybrid, better DC than a contractor saw, massive underpinnings, powerful motor, etc. The downside is typically a higher price tag and higher electrical power requirements. If you've got 220v and a budget of at least $1k, this is the best route IMO. If $1k is too steep, a good used cabinet saw is a good option. If you don't have 220v, or can't find a good used cabinet saw, a hybrid is the next logical step IMO.

Which tilt direction to get is largely a matter of preference....there are pros and cons (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=13489) to each.

[Tim Thomas]

I have a contractor's style saw (2hp Shop Fox), and I really like it, BUT that is because I move my saw A LOT. I like to do my woodworking outside in the driveway, so I have my saw on a mobile base and roll it in and out of the garage to do my work. About the only "advantage" I can think of for the contractor's saw over a hybrid or cabinet saw is that generally they are lighter and have a wider footprint, which makes them easier and safer to move.

That being said, since you are budgeting up to $1200, I would also recommend that you go with a true cabinet saw. Of course, if you are weird like me and want to move the saw around a lot, you can go with a contractor's saw and use the money you save to buy MORE TOOLS! For example, your $1200 budget could just about get you a Ridgid contractor 's saw, Ridgid planer and a Ridgid 6 inch jointer, all of which offer a good combination of value/performance for the hobbyist woodworker. (I've got the planer and jointer. Love 'em.) If you already have all the tools you need, or don't have room for 3 more big tools, please ignore all of my ramblings and listen to the experienced folks who are pushing you toward a true cabinet saw. I've got a buddy who has a Jet cabinet saw that he just loves, and I think it would be in your price range. Happy hunting! Buying new tools is almost as much fun as using them. :)

[Mike Cutler]

Leo
I have a Jet contractor style tablesaw and a General Hybrid tablesaw. I have them setup back to back and use them as an outfeed table for each other.Of the two,I would keep the hybrid if I had to have only one.

In your case though $1200.00 buys a nice Grizzly cabinet saw new, and a really nice older machine used if you look for awhile.
If $1200.00 is your budget, go straight to a cabinet saw.

[Jacob Reverb]

other than rips and dados, i dont see myself doing too much more right now.

I'd spend $750 on a good contractor's saw (like the Powermatic 64 for example) and spend the remaining $450 on something else.

[Prashun Patel]

I'm in the same boat as you. Haven't pulled the trigger yet.

I'm using a 1hp saw now which cuts 95% of what I need fine. At 1 3/4 or 2hp, the hybrids'll be fine for my needs.

I understand that cabs are better in an absolute sense than hybrids, but a wiser spend for my usage is: hybrid + improved blade guard + upgraded fence/miter/outfeed accessories.

I've been looking hard at the Grizzly 0478 and the Jet Proshop (which despite rumors, is NOT shipping with a riving knife any time soon).

The Grizzly G0661 looks compelling. Despite being a 'contractor' saw, the motor's enclosed, and it's the only contractor or hybrid saw that has a riving knife - an accessory that can't be added aftermarket. To me, it walks and talks like a hybrid.

I've never heard anything BAD about Grizzly products. Even if something ships wonky, they seem (from reading) to be very responsive.

[J. Z. Guest]

I don't think you need a "decent sized footprint." Most of us like good power and good capacity with a small footprint. I think 27" rip capacity is fine, as that is half of a 4' sheet of whatever. Going from 27" to 30" rip capacity isn't much improvement, IMO. The huge capacities offered that go up to 48" is noteworthy and you can upgrade to this later.

Contractor saws have that daggone motor hanging way out the back, which makes the footprint bigger without adding any capacity. It also makes dust collection challenging.

I vote hybrid if you have 120 V only, and cabinet if you have 240.

All table saws will have a riving knife or splitter.

They can all be moved if necessary, but none of them are going to be exactly out of the way when moved unless you have a decent sized shop. (esp. the contractor)

How big's your shop? What's the floor made out of? Those should be big factors in your decision. (for example, a 12'x12' shop with a dirt floor does not match with a contractor saw with mobile base)

Take Dewey's #3 option seriously. It will be more work, but you'll have more saw for the money in the end. I believe he's the one that just scored a mint Delta Unisaw with all the fixin's for your budget.

If your shop is small or if you would like to be able to move your saw around like Tim (and I) you might consider the Ridgid TS2400. It is super easy to move & transport, and it folds up out of the way when you don't need it. I just love mine. "Crosscutting" a 4x8 sheet on it is not doable, but I don't mind doing that with my good old fashioned circ saw & edge guide when the need arises. It has a soft start motor, excellent fence, and integral folding, rolling stand.

[Frank Drew]

what about tilt direction? does that matter? i dont see why they cant tilt both ways.

Leo, it would take a great deal of room inside the cabinet for the trunnion/arbor/motor to be able to swing 45˚ both left and right. Also, a hard stop is the best way to ensure a true 90˚ registration of the sawblade, and most manufacturers choose to make that the limit of the tilt travel.

Which isn't to say that there aren't some saws that tilt both ways, but I've never used or even run across one.

[Frank Guerin]

My old Rockwell keeps me going. I do hope in the future I own a better saw but things are as they are. I don't understand the problem with the motor hanging out the back. I built my out feed table with a space that goes around the motor. I can tilt my motor without a problem and I would think all table saws need some type of table extention so the footprint is not a problem.
Now the acurracy of a tilted contactor saw compared to others is another question.

[Norman Pyles]

It all depends on what you expect out of your saw. I have a Delta contractor saw, and I got it really cheap. I have built dust collection, from Chuck Lenz's design. Added a overhead guard, with dust collection. Built an outfeed table , and added the Biesemeyer fence. I really like it, and it does everything I need. If you can't live with the motor hanging out the back, and building your own under saw dust collection. Then get the hybrid. Either way you will have a good saw.

[Leo Zick]

wow.. some replies! Thank you everyone..
Well, ive been researching to death. Hard, considering there arent many places to look at saws.
I've seen the craftsman hybrid, and a jet and sawstop at my local woodcraft.
The Jet had a 52" fence. way too big.

From everything ive read, a hybrid seems to be the way to go. I dont really want to run 220V anywhere right now. The cost for the extra saw power isnt really worth it to me, im a weekend warrior, at best..

So, of the hybrids, these seem to be front runners:
1. Craftsman 22124. Solid saw, nice fence. crappy support table to the right. Can these be upgrades to cast iron wings?

2. Grizzly G0478. All I read sounds good. would be nice to see one though.

3. Jet JWSS-10CSPF.

4. Jet Proshop.

5. Steel City 35601.

I guess im not much further along.. thats a big list, and i cant seem to find most anywhere to test them out, or at least look at them!

Does anyone know of these choices, how much is upgradable? I know fences are, assuming they fit on the rails, right? What about adding wings or an outfeed table? is this something they are set up to handle?

Thanks again!

[Cary Falk]

Leo,
You probably can't go wrong with any of them. The Craftsman or the SC is probably the best because of the cabinet mounted trunions. The problem with the Craftsman is that it is overpriced because for that money you can get a Grizzly cabinet saw. If you can get in on a great sale on the Craftsman that might be your best bet. Is Sears having a Farthers day sale by chance? I don't really know the cost of any of the others.

[Steven DeMars]

I have a Delta X5 contractor's saw. Nice saw, but as soon as you buy a contractors saw you spend every moment of use trying to figure a way to beat the "lack of dust collection" problem. . . . There is no real practical way to do dust collection. My saw does not have a sealed motor, so the wood box around the saw idea will not work. The frame cover to create a cabinet like environment idea will not work because the saw has to tilt . . .

As soon as I can, a cabinet saw is coming my way . . . It was the first large tool I bought for my shop and the least researched . . . . Had I known about SAWMILL CREEK prior to buying it I would have ended up with a cabinet saw . . .

Trust the suggestions you get here . . . they are usually based on experience, not "brand fever" . . . that is common on the welding sites I subscribe to . . .:)

[Paul Ryan]

Leo,

If you get the craftsman club info every so often check it out. If not find a way to sign up for the craftsman club. The craftsman saw you are looking at was on sale for under $1000 about a month ago. The steel city and the craftsman are basically the same saw, except the craftsman has a few more gadgets(out feed table, fancy miter guage). The craftsman also has the better fence the beis is better than the delux steel city. However if you upgrade the steel city to a industrial fence you will have agruably the best fence around. It says perfectly straigt, is very easy to adjust, and slides very, very smoothly. I know the craftsman, the steel city, the grizzly, and the jet proshop all did very well when compaired. I think any saw would be a good buy. I personally would go for either the craftsman if you can get it for a good price, or the steel city with the better fence. I really cannot coment on the grizzly though. I have a hard time buying something if I can play with it first. I never had a chance to check out a grizzly so I did not buy one.

[Leo Zick]

Leo,

If you get the craftsman club info every so often check it out. If not find a way to sign up for the craftsman club. The craftsman saw you are looking at was on sale for under $1000 about a month ago. The steel city and the craftsman are basically the same saw, except the craftsman has a few more gadgets(out feed table, fancy miter guage). The craftsman also has the better fence the beis is better than the delux steel city. However if you upgrade the steel city to a industrial fence you will have agruably the best fence around. It says perfectly straigt, is very easy to adjust, and slides very, very smoothly. I know the craftsman, the steel city, the grizzly, and the jet proshop all did very well when compaired. I think any saw would be a good buy. I personally would go for either the craftsman if you can get it for a good price, or the steel city with the better fence. I really cannot coment on the grizzly though. I have a hard time buying something if I can play with it first. I never had a chance to check out a grizzly so I did not buy one.


if i can play around with the grizzly and 2 jet saws i would know my answer in a heartbeat. Im assuming the steel city is the same as the craftsman, so no big deal in using it.

no sears sales on the saw, best i saw was 950 a month or so ago. from playing with the ones set up, it still seems too high.


ill just keep hunting for places to see these things. maybe a drive to the closest rockler store..

[Robert Conner]

Since you are limited to 110 service you might consider a used Unisaw. The old classic Unis will run on 110 service . The 1 HP versions are very capable for anything but Commercial work where more HP is desired. If you are inclined the old Unisaws can be found in need of minor refurbishing with new belts and maybe arbor bearings, no big deal. Full repaints are not necessary for function. You can find one with a little searching for $500-600 range.
These will last a lifetime, will hold value and do any kind of Wood cutting you might need. Parts are easy to find via the internet. Accessories like fences, miters, jigs are available.
The basic design was 1939, yet parts from a 2008 model will still fit as well as all in between. Some believe the older models are superior, I'm not sure but they are all very good.
Perhaps I am Biased!
Robert

[Jacob Reverb]

I have a Delta X5 contractor's saw...My saw does not have a sealed motor, so the wood box around the saw idea will not work.

Are you sure about this Steven? I've never heard of a contractor's saw using an ODP motor...that sounds like an ideal way to start a fire (or at least kill a motor quick) and get yourself zapped with a product liability lawsuit if you're Delta...

[Heather Thompson]

Leo,

Where are you located, I have a Delta contrator saw, PALS, turned pullies, Betterly insert and mobile base. It is taking space in the corner of my shop since I upgraded to a PM66, I would be willing to help you out without to much trouble.

Heather

[Ben Cadotte]

Since your limited to 110V I would say go with a Hybrid. I have a craftsman contractors and although it does what I ask of it. It is still not quite what I want. I have done a little bit to it to help it along. But now at the point of where I don't want to put any more into it. And will just get another saw. I intend to keep this one and go with 2 saws once I do another. It will be a full cabinet saw though. Power is not an issue for me.

[scott spencer]

wow.. some replies! Thank you everyone..
Well, ive been researching to death. Hard, considering there arent many places to look at saws.
I've seen the craftsman hybrid, and a jet and sawstop at my local woodcraft.
The Jet had a 52" fence. way too big.

From everything ive read, a hybrid seems to be the way to go. I dont really want to run 220V anywhere right now. The cost for the extra saw power isnt really worth it to me, im a weekend warrior, at best..

So, of the hybrids, these seem to be front runners:
1. Craftsman 22124. Solid saw, nice fence. crappy support table to the right. Can these be upgrades to cast iron wings?

2. Grizzly G0478. All I read sounds good. would be nice to see one though.

3. Jet JWSS-10CSPF.

4. Jet Proshop.

5. Steel City 35601.

I guess im not much further along.. thats a big list, and i cant seem to find most anywhere to test them out, or at least look at them!

Does anyone know of these choices, how much is upgradable? I know fences are, assuming they fit on the rails, right? What about adding wings or an outfeed table? is this something they are set up to handle?

Thanks again!

Leo - You can add wings, extensions, and outfeeds to just about any of them. Nearly any standard 27" wing can be easily modified to fit. I added a 9/8" laminate router table to the right of my 22124 and replaced the junky Biese extension table. Then I slid the rails to the right for 40" rip capacity....works out well for my space. Good luck with your selection!

http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/hewood/RT/?action=view&current=000_0252.jpg

[Ted Torres]

So, of the hybrids, these seem to be front runners:
1. Craftsman 22124. Solid saw, nice fence. crappy support table to the right. Can these be upgrades to cast iron wings?

Yep, side laminate table's not worth much (mine had a 1\32" bow). Had them replace it to only have the shipped unit, that was perfectly flat, come in damaged in shipping! I wanted a CI router table anyway, so I'm ordering THIS (http://www.benchdog.com/promax.cfm) with the 3\8" aluminum router plate to install on the left side. Then take the left CI wing to replace the right laminate support table...solid 60" of CI all the way across! :D



I'm assuming the steel city is the same as the craftsman, so no big deal in using it.

Yes, the SC-35601 and the CM-22124 are near identical (Orion), but the CM comes with a $450 Pro Bies fence & rails (Very Nice), an outfeed table and a miter gauge fence\hold down assembly!!!


no sears sales on the saw, best i saw was 950 a month or so ago. from playing with the ones set up, it still seems too high.

My store had the 22124 set up crappy which originally turned me off to purchasing it, but then I looked past the misalignments and terrible display and decided to go with all of the great reviews this saw had gotten over the past 3 years. Got mine for $900 in early May and really like the power, heft, smoothness and features it offers for that price! ;) HERE (http://www.epinions.com/review/Craftsman_Professional_10_in_Table_Saw_22124/content_428579131012) is an initial review I did in the first week after setting up the 22124. I'm no expert, but really like this power tool. :)

Hope this helps....

HAPPY FATHERS DAY to all you DADS!!!

Ted

[Leo Zick]

Leo,

Where are you located, I have a Delta contrator saw, PALS, turned pullies, Betterly insert and mobile base. It is taking space in the corner of my shop since I upgraded to a PM66, I would be willing to help you out without to much trouble.

Heather

wow, nice offer!
I'm in CT though. :(

[Leo Zick]

Since you are limited to 110 service you might consider a used Unisaw. The old classic Unis will run on 110 service . The 1 HP versions are very capable for anything but Commercial work where more HP is desired. If you are inclined the old Unisaws can be found in need of minor refurbishing with new belts and maybe arbor bearings, no big deal. Full repaints are not necessary for function. You can find one with a little searching for $500-600 range.
These will last a lifetime, will hold value and do any kind of Wood cutting you might need. Parts are easy to find via the internet. Accessories like fences, miters, jigs are available.
The basic design was 1939, yet parts from a 2008 model will still fit as well as all in between. Some believe the older models are superior, I'm not sure but they are all very good.
Perhaps I am Biased!
Robert

i have no problem with old saws. as a matter of a fact, i just spent 3 hours with my grandfather ripping wood for my router cabinet on his 50yr old 1/2hp craftsman benchtop saw.. :)
i bought him a tooldock base a few years ago, and the sucker still chugs along. slight slowdown with 1" oak, but still does ok.
not nearly accurate enough though. i think im spoiled by the precision of my router table.

(i just want a new saw for all my own :o )

[Leo Zick]

Leo - You can add wings, extensions, and outfeeds to just about any of them. Nearly any standard 27" wing can be easily modified to fit. I added a 9/8" laminate router table to the right of my 22124 and replaced the junky Biese extension table. Then I slid the rails to the right for 40" rip capacity....works out well for my space. Good luck with your selection!

http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/hewood/RT/?action=view&current=000_0252.jpg



nice setup! ive been debating about router table/table saw combo. my router cabinet is nearly built. ill see if i dont mind them being separate..

[Leo Zick]

Yep, side laminate table's not worth much (mine had a 1\32" bow). Had them replace it to only have the shipped unit, that was perfectly flat, come in damaged in shipping! I wanted a CI router table anyway, so I'm ordering THIS (http://www.benchdog.com/promax.cfm) with the 3\8" aluminum router plate to install on the left side. Then take the left CI wing to replace the right laminate support table...solid 60" of CI all the way across! :D




Yes, the SC-35601 and the CM-22124 are near identical (Orion), but the CM comes with a $450 Pro Bies fence & rails (Very Nice), an outfeed table and a miter gauge fence\hold down assembly!!!



My store had the 22124 set up crappy which originally turned me off to purchasing it, but then I looked past the misalignments and terrible display and decided to go with all of the great reviews this saw had gotten over the past 3 years. Got mine for $900 in early May and really like the power, heft, smoothness and features it offers for that price! ;) HERE (http://www.epinions.com/review/Craftsman_Professional_10_in_Table_Saw_22124/content_428579131012) is an initial review I did in the first week after setting up the 22124. I'm no expert, but really like this power tool. :)

Hope this helps....

HAPPY FATHERS DAY to all you DADS!!!

Ted



wow. nice wing. cast iron.. thats no joke.


thanks for the 22124 review.. it (they) are still in the picture. i actually found a place in NJ (Force machinery) and i have a meeting in the area Tuesday. if i have time im going to swing by and see what they have im stock for me to touch..

[Joe Mioux]

With your budget, you could find a new Griz or a lightly used cabinet saw.

A couple months ago, I sold my GI contractor saw and replaced it with something significantly better.

That General I saw was fabulous!!!@!!.

for about 800 it was money well spent.

It cut through 3 inch OLLLLLLLLDDDDDDDDDdd. Oak wood easily. Feed rate was probably slower than if I had used my new saw, but so what? I am not a production shop and a couple extra minutes sawing hard oak is moot to me.

Buy what you want. Brands, they are all pretty much the same when it comes to contractor saws. Hyrbrids???? i don't know.

joe

[Leo Zick]

im rethinking things.. if i have to run new wiring to where ever in my basement my shop ends up, what does it matter what size breaker I connect it to? lol.

talked to guys at a local woodcraft, and they advised against the jet hybrids. jet seems to be having problems lately, poor quality issues. delta seems like its been on a decline with some quality issues as well. that leaves me with a steel city hybrid or grizzly. if the grizzly, another hundred or so gets me a cabinet saw, with the same footprint.

sooooo... if im adding cabinet saws now, is the grizzly the way to go? anyone jet xacta cabinet saws? (lots more $ though, huh)

thanks.. :)

[Prashun Patel]

Shucks!
I just bought the Jet Proshop!!!

If I was going cabinet, which I almost did, I would have bought the Grizzly 1023. I have NEVER heard a bad thing about it, and have heard a million recommendations for it. The only thing I don't like is that I can't touch and feel it.

If yr still interested in the Jet PS, I found the best deal to be on Amazon. Open a Chase CC with them and you'll get an instant $30 off, and it ships free, and you'll get 3% back in the form of Amazon 'points' towards yr next purchase.

Also, FWIW, you might just hold off until the end of the year if you can. From what I gather talking to Jet cs reps, they're shipping a pro-shop-like ts with a riving knife in Q4. Won't be a proshop, but my guess is it'll be better. I'm sure this will also force the blade guard to be rearmounted hopefully with thumbscrews. One thing I don't like about the PS design is the blade guard that's bolted through the blade insert.

In the end, I picked the proshop for price. It ships with a blade and an excellent fence, which might not be the case with a lower end cab saw.

[Leo Zick]

im sure itll be great.. please update this thread once you get it and have some comments.. :)

[scott spencer]

im rethinking things.. if i have to run new wiring to where ever in my basement my shop ends up, what does it matter what size breaker I connect it to? lol.

talked to guys at a local woodcraft, and they advised against the jet hybrids. jet seems to be having problems lately, poor quality issues. delta seems like its been on a decline with some quality issues as well. that leaves me with a steel city hybrid or grizzly. if the grizzly, another hundred or so gets me a cabinet saw, with the same footprint.

sooooo... if im adding cabinet saws now, is the grizzly the way to go? anyone jet xacta cabinet saws? (lots more $ though, huh)

thanks.. :)

Hi Leo - Moving up to a cab saw has plenty of advantages....a move I doubt you'll regret.

Re: the comments from the Woodcraft guys about the Jet PS... I can't help but wonder if there's either an incentive to sell you something else, or perhaps they're referring to the original Jet Supersaw hybrid from a few years ago that did indeed have a couple of problems.... I've heard and read no negatives about the Proshop saw.

[Neal Clayton]

i'd buy a used higher end saw and fix it up, as i'm sure most others have done to save money.

got my late 80s model 5hp PM66 for 1000, new fence, new belts, new blade, and a couple cans of rust cleaner and the total cost was right at your budget.