Oil Bath ---Question?????

[Gary Max]

I have been working on setting up a Oil Bath to drop items in straight off the lathe. The whole ideal is for the item to soak up the oil and lose any water that may be left. Let the piece sit in the bath for a couple of days and then let it slowly air dry.
I am using a 10 gallon Stainless Steal tank for storeage.
So far I have used two gallons of Danish Oil and two gallons of BLO with a gallon of Mineral Sprits to thin everything down---the oil seemed a bit to heavy.
Now for the question----What will adding a Gallon of Waterlox Tung Oil do.
I am trying to get to the point where I can just buff the piece off and have low luster shine.

[Ron McKinley]

I have never heard that Danish Oil will drive water out. I use it all the time on dry pieces. I'm anxious to see how yours turns out.

Danish Oil is a blend of varnish, mineral spirits and BLO. I might add more mineral spirits to thin it but wouldn't add Tung Oil since it's also a blend of the above. Good luck and let us know how it works.......Ron

[Jim Becker]

Waterlox is made with tung oil, but there is no tung oil left after the manufacture. It's a phenolic resin varnish. There is no real point to adding it to your mix and Waterlox also has a short shelf life once the container is opened.

[Gary Max]

Jim I am missing something---Waterlox is the name of a company not a product.
I founds gallons of Waterlox Tung Oil at a flooring company for sale.
I thought that Danish oil was made from a blend of different oils and Tung oil was just one of them.
I first read about this at Ron Kents web site a couple of years ago. I just never had enough oils to give it a try.

[Jim Becker]

Most of the Waterlox products you see are varnishes. I'm sorry if I was mistaken on this, Gary. But check the label...if it doesn't say "100% tung oil" somewhere on it, it's not tung oil. And note that tung oil has a very, very long cure time. Since you'll not really see any difference between it and boiled linseed oil which is also a fraction of the cost of tung... ;)

"Danish oil" is a combination of varnish, mineral spirits and an oil, such as linseed oil or tung oil. It's not usually pure oil.

[jeremy levine]

They do not make a 100% tung oil product.

[Lee DeRaud]

This may help: http://www.ronkent.com/techniques.php
You might also contact Sascha Gast, as he is/was using this method.

[Gary Max]

Lee-- thanks I had forgotten about Sascha----I will see what he thinks.

[Frank Drew]

They do not make a 100% tung oil product.

Doesn't (or didn't) Mohawk?

[jeremy levine]

Doesn't (or didn't) Mohawk?
In the past I had spent a lot of time on the Waterlox web site ( orignal vs. xxx vs yyy). So I just went back to all the MSDS they post and the "right to know" data and none of the products are 100 % tung oil. Even in thier "history" section they always speaks of a blend of tung oil and other products.

As close as I can the 60% solvent the rest Tung Oil, Phenolic Resin and Esther Gum

[Jim Becker]

As close as I can the 60% solvent the rest Tung Oil, Phenolic Resin and Esther Gum

Yes, and then it's cooked to make varnish...the tung oil ceases to be tung oil at that point. ;)

[Andrew Derhammer]

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=768
There's pure tung oil for ya!

[Jon Behnke]

If you take a look at Russ Fairfield's website you will find a wealth if info on different types of finishes including an article on tung oil alone. He frequents the IAP (penturner's forum) and he is very knowledgeable. He has a couple videos out, one called "Finishing Secrects" which is supposed to be very good.