Radial Arm Saw Opinions

[Matt Hutchinson]

I am now considering buying a very awesome radial arm saw as a temporary table saw. I have used a radial arm saw (a junky Craftsman that I currently own) for ripping, crosscutting, and mitering. I didn't mind it a bit. Sure a table saw is more convenient, but at the moment I won't be doing sheet good, and I think I could manage with a radial arm saw. Has anyone at some point used a radial arm saw in place of a table saw? I personally don't have anything against them, and I would save up to get a tablesaw in the future, like 6 months down the road.

Now, this isn't any small saw. This is an old Delta/Rockwell 14" saw, and about a 20" crosscut capacity. I have seen it in person, and everything is dead on....absolutely beautiful machine. All the moving parts glide smoothly and effortlessy, and there is no play anywhere. I think I may be able to get it for $400....quite a steal. Here is the link to the modern day equivalent. And no this is not an exaggeration, this is indeed the monster tool that is available to me.

http://www.cpowoodworking.com/radial_arm_saws/33-401.html?ref=froogle33-401

Opinions??

Hutch

[Jeff Miller]

Quit asking questions and go get it before somebody else does.........................................hurry up and get going:)




JEFF:D

[Roy Harding]

You've got 3 ph power available? (Or can get a phase converter).

If so - go for it.

[Jim O'Dell]

Hopefully the one you have available to you would be single phase. My first saw was a Craftsman RAS. I built a complete set of kitchen cabinets out of ash and ash ply with it. Probably used a circular saw for the ply...too long ago and can't remember.:o I burned it up cutting concrete Pavestone retaining wall blocks, :eek: with a masonry blade in it. I think it was the dust that killed the motor. I have my Dad's older than dirt Craftsman now. Not sure I will use it much, but I'm going to set it up and plumb it for dust control, if for no other reason than it was my Dad's saw.
So, yea, I'd go for it, as long as it is single phase. If it is 3 phase, you can get a decent contractor saw for the interim for less than the RAS and the convertor. Jim.

[jerry nazard]

Matt,

On two occasions I used a RAS for an extended period when setting up new shops. The RAS was simply better for framing and shop carpentry than any thing else. BUT... both saws were quickly replaced with a TS and from that time on were used only for 90~ cutoff. I avoid most ripping operations (except dedicated ones) on the RAS.

The particular saw you mention is well worth owning. So... what are you waiting for??

Best!

-Jerry

[Matt Hutchinson]

You all have confirmed what I thought. After seeing it I was impressed, but after seeing how much a new one costs I knew I should snatch it up. I have e-mailed the owner, and I hope to find out later today if I got it. I am so giddy. Here is a picture of it.

Hutch

P.S. Yes, this is 3 phase, but I will be getting a rotary converter.

[Peter Quinn]

I think a RAS of that quality is worth owning (I have a DeWalt 14" w/24" cross cut) but not so much to replace a table saw. Ripping is the kicker. Its quicker, easier, and IME much safer on a TS. They used to make power feeds that fit the RAS for ripping and shaping operations, probably still do. You might want one if your going to be ripping a lot on this machine. There's a few good books and a couple of RAS forums worth checking out to avoid making any costly mistakes if this is your first RAS.

If your setting up a shop to do this professionally you might want to consider getting a table saw sooner rather than latter. Perhaps something like a TANNEWITZ!:D:D

[Craig McCormick]

I used a RAS exclusively for years. Most of our furniture was made with it. I now have a table saw which I do prefer over the RAS.

Good luck,

c

[Jim Becker]

That's a sweet machine...'hope you can score it. While I'm not a general fan of the RAS, these big old machines are in a different league. I think I'd still be uncomfortable with any kind of ripping on the machine, but otherwise, if you have the space to really use it, it will be a great addition to your shop.

[Mike SoRelle]

Ripping on a RAS is the only shop operation that always induces a real palpable fear in me.

I still have mine, but these days I only use it for crosscuts that a 12" compound miter saw can't handle, I leave the rest to the table saw.

[Matt Hutchinson]

I have been doing ripping on an old junky RAS, yet even with 1.25" stock I have never had an inkling of pinching or kickback. Of course, a good long push stick is important, but I do plan on getting a tablesaw as soon as I can afford it. I just bought a planer, and I still need a jointer. So if I get the RAS, I will get the jointer next, then a tablesaw. Otherwise I will get a Grizzly TS and jointer.

Hutch

[Mark Kosmowski]

Do you have the thing yet? It's the bigger brother of my 12" Delta 33-890, which I'm very happy with. I don't think that ripping on a good quality RAS properly is any more or less dangerous than properly ripping on a good quality TS. I will admit that it is much easier to pick up an acceptable quality TS than RAS at a cheaper price.

Granted, I'm still newish to WWing, but I don't have a TS in my shop - no space when I started in a basement and now no space in a one car garage. I've got the RAS, a 14" bandsaw and recently picked up a guide system for my circular saw for sheet materials. The guide assembly I picked up within the past month. Before buying a fence for my bandsaw about 6 months ago I did all my cutting on the RAS.

Good luck with it! If you need to reduce overall weight to move it, feel free to unwire the motor (labelling which wire goes where as needed) and slide the motor off the carriage rails. It is not recommended to remove the arm assembly from the saw base if this can at all be avoided.

Some of my summer plans include rebuilding my RAS table - once this is done I'm going to work on an idea I have for a rip sled.

Hope you are able to get the beast! Good luck!

[Greg Hines, MD]

I have been doing ripping on an old junky RAS, yet even with 1.25" stock I have never had an inkling of pinching or kickback. Of course, a good long push stick is important, but I do plan on getting a tablesaw as soon as I can afford it. I just bought a planer, and I still need a jointer. So if I get the RAS, I will get the jointer next, then a tablesaw. Otherwise I will get a Grizzly TS and jointer.

Hutch

My dad still has the Craftsman radial arm that I used to toss a board into a door and leave a hunk of luan broken out. I would love to have another RAS, but not for its ripping ability. I would use it with a dado stack for dados and half-laps.

Doc

[Jeff Duncan]

Hopefully you got the RAS, those are good machines, I also would avoid ripping on one like the plague, (been there done that), but if your comfortable with it, then by all means.
More importantly, as you will be getting a phase converter anyway, stop messing around looking at those toys in the Grizzly catalog and get yourself some real machines. For much less money than any of those knock offs you can equip yourself nicely with some great Arn. I can't believe you would go from looking at a Tanny to a Grizzly? Sit down, take a few minutes and think about what you want in your shop. For me the table saw would be first and foremost b/c of the work I do. From there you buy one machine at a time in order of priority. Most of my shop is used equipment, and for the money I spend you couldn't come anywhere close in quality with Grizzly or any other inexpensive brands.
that's my opinion for what it's worth!
good luck,
JeffD

[Matt Hutchinson]

Yes, ripping on an RAS does make me a little uneasy. But I will make sure the kickback zone has a wall behind it, not a door or window, and I will stand to the side using a push still. Also, if I flare the back side of the blade out, just a few hundredths, it increases the safety. I have my junky C-man RAS setup like this, and all is peachy. But I would only set it up like this if I had a ton of ripping to do. I wouldn't want it that way on a normal basis.

As far as the Tanny tablesaw goes, I am looking for whatever will be effective. Grizzly's 1023 has a reputation as a good inexpensive saw, but I know it's no PM 66. I agree, I should be able to come up with some inexpensive iron, and I hope this is the case. There is a local used industrial machine warehouse, unfortunately, their table saws are out of my price range. I am poor and getting poorer, and there comes a point (very soon actually) where I may just have to take what I can get. I need to get my name out there, and I need a shop with tools. Believe me, I have been searching high and low, and drooling over many an awesome tool. But most are above my current means, and I may have to settle. Upgrading in the future isn't the end of the world for me. I truly agree with you, but my finances are draining faster than I can keep up with. I am only working part time.

Anywho, on the bright side, I am getting an awesome new 14" Delta/Rockwell RAS delivered to my garage on Friday or Saturday. I couldn't get it for $400, but I still am happy with the purchase. It's definitely a tool I will have for life. The phase converter may be a couple more weeks, cuz the money isn't quite there....but almost. Then I will be able to buy 3 phase equipment to my heart's content. And yes, my heart is oh so content at the mere thought of a shop full of big iron. :D

Hutch

P.S. OH MAN I CAN'T WAIT!!! Breathe, Hutch, breathe......

[Peter Quinn]

So you got the RAS! Sweet! Now call and get a proper ripping blade for that thing, because unlike those Crapsmans, Papa don't play! Perhaps call Wolfe Machinery about a proper blade?

I watched my grampa's Dewalt imbed white oak deep into the mortar joints of his rubble foundation while he was ripping. He had a sign painted on the floor of the kick back area of his shop which read "DON"T STAND HERE STUPID" , big bright red letters , but it was the sticker in the wall that got my attention.

[Matt Hutchinson]

That reminds me of all the crazy videos we would watch in shop class. I think the teacher wanted to scare the crap out of us in order to scare the safety rules into us. It worked. Pieces of wood flying at high speed, scary. Plus, my high school shop had some massive old iron with so much power to spare impaling was a very real danger.

Yes, it is truly sweet, though not as sweet of a deal as I had wanted.....$600 delivered. Oh well, it's a lot better then spending $5,700 for a new one!!! :eek: Also, I have been thinking I may try to rig up table saw anti-kickback fingers, cuz most kickback prevention on RASs are rather ineffective. Then again, I have never had an RAS that's engineered this well. We will see.....

Hutch

[Peter Quinn]

My Dewalt has anti kick back pawls that run off the blade guard, and though I've never ripped on that beast, I'm pretty sure they would stop a speeding bus. Maybe check with Delta if the kick back safety is missing, cause most good saws had them, and most guys who only cross cut throw them in a drawer or loose them, so you may not get it with yours.

I had my FIL wire in a big momentary stop mushroom that I hooked up to a knee kick so I can be jumping under the saw and shutting it off at the same time!:D

One more thought, do you know any former hockey goalies whose gear you fit into? Might want to call on them.

Congrats again on the BIG ARN. I would gladly have paid $200 to have my DeWalt delivered, but the deal was it was free, but I had to disassemble it and drag it out of the basement of a remodeled NYC row house...they had build the building around it!

[Bruce Benjamin]

My dad still has the Craftsman radial arm that I used to toss a board into a door and leave a hunk of luan broken out. I would love to have another RAS, but not for its ripping ability. I would use it with a dado stack for dados and half-laps.

Doc

This same story could be repeated many thousands of times only substituting the tablesaw for the radial arm saw. I'll agree though that you do have to pay attention when ripping with the radial arm saw. But the same can be said of the tablesaw.

I've had a Craftsman RAS for about 15 years and it used to be my only saw. I always operate it with all of the factory safety devices installed. About 10 years ago or so I did have one accident with it while ripping but it was because I was stupidly trying to rip a piece about 16" long and about 3" wide. Duh! First the sawdust was hitting me in the face. At the same time that I sneezed the blade hit a knot in the small piece of wood. The piece kicked back and hit me in the chest while my left middle finger somehow found it's way into the side of the blade. The piece hitting my chest didn't hurt too much because the guard must have slowed it down but the end of my finger did get chewed up to the bone. Fortunately every bit of that finger has grown back and it's almost impossible to tell it was a problem.

I've had a couple of kick backs with my tablesaw too. In both situations I was following all safety protocols but with a tablesaw I believe it's impossible to eliminate the chance of a kickback, short of maybe using a power feeder. That's why I like my EZ Smart so much. But I still use my RAS for quick crosscuts, and for half laps it can't be beat. My tablesaw is primarily used for rips where the depth of cut is beyond what my Hilti circular saw will perform. Not used often though.

Bruce