Types of wood for a work bench

[Jim O'Dell]

Seeing all the beautiful work benches that a lot of you have, and the tongue in cheek post I made about a Mesquite tree for sale last week, (moved to the classified forum) I got to thinking if I ended up taking the tree myself and had it sawn up and kiln dried, would this be good for a work bench? I looked up and the hardness is way up there (Hard Maple 1450, Pecan 1820, Mesquite 2345). So what do you think? Not sure I would be up to the task of safely felling a tree to begin with, much less be able to transport the trunk to the sawyer. So this is mostly just thinking out loud. But if the co-worker had the tree cut down, maybe I could get the trunk for a cheap price if I could find a way to transport it.
Anyway, just thinking while I'm waiting for the primer to dry, and to finish lunch. Jim.

[Vince Shriver]

My local hardwood supplier has European Beech at about half the price of Rock Maple. Excellent for a bench.

[Craig Summers]

From reading your post, a few thoughts
1) some creekers make benches from Oak, i don't know a thing about mesquite (its rare in VA, except for meat smoking). For a bench, I would wonder about
a) Strength : Can it take the forces imposed by woodworking? i.e.: planing , hammering, sawing, jumping up and down on it?
b) Stability : will it warp or twist when humidity changes? Will your selected finish mitigate that: BLO, Poly, Tung Oil etc.?
c) Durability : will it split, Chip, or splinter if struck? (localized strength)

2) have you thought of bringing the sawmill to the tree? Might be a few portable sawmill folks there in TX, I saw (pun intended) someone in Southern MD that charged .25 / BF to cut up logs into lumber. You would have to check prices in your neck of the woods.

3) You mention kiln drying. Are you planning on air dry (@1 year) or kiln dry (1 month)? If kiln, have you found a place that will do it, or would you do it yourself?

Just something to consider while watching paint dry.

[David Giles]

Mesquite strikes me as a tough wood to use for a bench. The grain tends to vary direction and it would be tough to plane it flat. But it would make a beautiful bench.

What if the top was a poured epoxy coating like on a bar top? It would fill any voids and cracks. Level it almost to bare wood. Don't go for a glass smooth top, just flat. Leave plane and sanding scratches for character.

[Jim O'Dell]

Craig, thus my questions. :D My thinking tells me that Mesquite should be very strong by it's hardness rating of 2345 vs Hard Maple at 1450, but you are right, that doesn't mean that it is as stable, or even stable enough to use for a bench. As far as a mobile sawyer, there is even one here on the Creek, but he has already said that it might be cost prohibitive to do a single tree. The sawyer mentioned on my first thread is within about 1 1/2 hours of me who's web site says sawing is 90.00 per hour plus 20.00 blade fee each piece of metal hit. This business has a kiln on site. I've emailed him a couple questions on this tree, how much wood could be expected to get from it, and how much that would cost to kiln dry. It may all be way too costly to even think about, but until I reach that point, I'll consider this an education, and a relatively cheap one at that! :rolleyes:
David, those are good points. Hopefully someone here will chime in that has the answers. But I don't think I'd want to use the epoxy on the bench top. I'd be afraid it would shatter when hit. Maybe it doesn't get that brittle when cured. But I wouldn't think Mesquite would splinter badly. How could it achieve the hardness rating if it did? Maybe hardness and strength don't go hand in hand. Someone have the answers?
My reason for thinking aloud about this is to learn. If the sawing/drying part is not too expensive and I could end up with enough wood for a bench that would be unique, then that interests me.
The paint is dry, the lawn is cut. Guess I'll go back to the shop and see what kind of trouble I can get myself into. Thanks guys!! Jim

[Bob Genovesi]

I think maple is about the nicest wood to use for a workbench top. My top is a full 2 inches thick and 34 inches wide. I just refinished it recently; still good as new..

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s225/BobbyG53/Image008-650.jpg

[Frank Drew]

Reasonably hard, reasonably dense, and very stable are the qualities you want in a workbench wood. I used maple because I got some at a good price way back when; birch or beech would also be a very good choices. I'd prefer a closed pore wood to open pore such as oak, but that's not to say that oak would be wrong.

I don't know a thing about mesquite, but your timeline will be stretched out if you use any wood you're just now felling; even if you plan on kiln drying, the wood should ideally air dry for a few months beforehand.

[Doug Shepard]

Mesquite has a rep for being one of the most stable woods you can get once it's dried. So while it might be a real bear to initially flatten, it might be something that only ever needs doing once. It would sure be sweet to look at too.

[Jim O'Dell]

Thanks for the info Doug and Frank. Frank, at the rate I work, I could fell the tree next month and get it cut into 6/4 planks, and air dry it myself for 2 years and still not be ready for it. :rolleyes: :D I really am thinking ahead here, but if the opportunity for something good comes my way and I can afford to do it, I will. Kind of like that 209.00 Delta 22-580 that's been in the spare room unopened for 3+ years! :eek: I think I'm about to get to the point of building a mobile base for it and getting it out to the shop. :o Maybe....Jim.

[Peter Quadarella]

I have also read that mesquite is a super stable wood. I have an excellent jack plane made out of mesquite. Hard and stable, what more do you want? I'd say go for it, it would be quite unique! :)

[Craig Summers]

Jim

Have you considered buying a larger chainsaw 9or using one you have), and buy one of those poor man lumber mill attachments for a chainsaw (some use a 2x4)? You would have to re-grind the teeth for rip cutting. Might be worth it if you are only cutting a few pieces slab wood (thick) and plan to air dry it. That way if you hit metal, you are only out the sharpening of your chainsaw blade.

Two examples are:
The Granberg (http://www2.northerntool.com/product/200316891.htm) $139 at Northern
http://www.northerntool.com/images/product/images/11879_lg.gif

Or the Beam Machine (http://www2.northerntool.com/product/200326318.htm)$39 at Northern
http://www.northerntool.com/images/product/images/11890_lg.gif


Criag

[Jim O'Dell]

Thanks Peter.
No, Craig, I hadn't thought about that. I do remember seeing them before. I have an older Mac 16" gas chain saw. I guess I might be able to get a longer bar for it if need be. I'm also guessing I'd lose at least 2 boards cutting it that way...to chips. And doubt that my saw would be up to the task anyway. But it is a thought.
A side question on dog holes for those following along. Has anyone ever built in the slots for dogs in the glue up process? I'm thinking you could get square or rectangular ones evenly spaced very easy this way. More thoughts while the paint dries. Jim.