Miter Gauge Sled

[Craig D Peltier]

Hi, Im looking for a sled that will help me make crosscuts on long ripped sheets of plywood. i.e. 96 inch sheet 16 inch rip, need to cut off 10 inches. I have used my TS many time just by pushing it through but its dangerous and always needs a support hand on the outside.

I dont have time to build one, im too busy with other jobs. I was looking at the incra 5000 , it seems to come with the sled an the miter gauge for 299 an I think I seen it for 249 when you google search it.
I know other folks like the jessem an jointech as well. Im not looking for the best miterered cuts just some support for these long cuts and being able to cut accurate miters when needed.
I dont have room for a Radial Arm Saw.Its a pain to set up a sawhorse, straightedge and skill saw to cut to length . I guess unless you have the festool setup.

Thanks

[Cary Swoveland]

Craig,

I don't think a sled would give you the 48" cut width you need. Three options come to mind: add a sliding table (e.g. http://www.general.ca/excalibur/pagemach/ang/50_slt40_60.html and http://www.exaktortools.com/index2.htm), use a wall-mounted panel saw (which you could use for the rips as well) or use a saw guide and portable circular saw (e.g., Eureka Zone's EZ Smart System, Festool's guide rails and circ saw or something homemade).

For a discussion of sliding table add-ons, see http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=26499 and http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=2628 . Note that the Excaliber product was acquired by General (of Canada) since these posts were written.

You might consider using a jig--with a sawguide and circular saw--that you could quickly attach to the sheet while it is still resting on the table saw, after you've completed the rip. The jig could hold the saw guide perpendicular to the sheet and provide support for the end of the sheet, including the cut-off and the area under the saw kerf. I'd be inclined to look at Eureka Zone's sliding fence/square, and pieces of 1" rigid insulation to support the sheet for the crosscut. If this is of interest, take a look at the Eureka Zone forum here at the Creek.

If you opt for using a saw guide, it might make sense to use it for the rip as well as the crosscut.

Cary

[Loren Hedahl]

I would just leave the strips on whatever outfeed support you are using on your TS and cut them off with either a circular saw, or a hand saw.

You could use a factory made speed square, or a larger one made from plywood and battens. If the ply is 1/4 inch or less, I can cut as fast with a Japanese pull saw. Thicker stuff, I would use a circular saw with a fine tooth blade.

In my own home shop my saw of choice is a RAS. I do have a small bench-top TS, a DeWalt 745 that I get out if I have a lot of strips to cut, since it has a good accurate fence and good dust control. Otherwise it stays stashed under the bench.

Good luck.

[Craig D Peltier]

Thanks, I like the blade I have on my jet TS for plywood.I will try the incra 5000 sled.

[Craig D Peltier]

Craig,

I don't think a sled would give you the 48" cut width you need. Three options come to mind: add a sliding table (e.g. http://www.general.ca/excalibur/pagemach/ang/50_slt40_60.html and http://www.exaktortools.com/index2.htm), use a wall-mounted panel saw (which you could use for the rips as well) or use a saw guide and portable circular saw (e.g., Eureka Zone's EZ Smart System, Festool's guide rails and circ saw or something homemade).

For a discussion of sliding table add-ons, see http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=26499 and http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=2628 . Note that the Excaliber product was acquired by General (of Canada) since these posts were written.

You might consider using a jig--with a sawguide and circular saw--that you could quickly attach to the sheet while it is still resting on the table saw, after you've completed the rip. The jig could hold the saw guide perpendicular to the sheet and provide support for the end of the sheet, including the cut-off and the area under the saw kerf. I'd be inclined to look at Eureka Zone's sliding fence/square, and pieces of 1" rigid insulation to support the sheet for the crosscut. If this is of interest, take a look at the Eureka Zone forum here at the Creek.

If you opt for using a saw guide, it might make sense to use it for the rip as well as the crosscut.

Cary

Thanks for the links, although im not trying to crosscut a 48 inch wide piece. My example was 16 inch.

[Matthew Hills]

I rough cut (1/4" wide each side) with my circular saw and a very simple homemade crosscut jig. The plywood strips are supported on a couple of 2x4 supported by two saw horses. Final trim on table saw, where the cut quality is better.

Think it would be tough to move a 96" strip well for a cross-cut on the table saw. You'd need extra support, and the lever arm would still be pretty brutal. You'll definitely want a good clamp to hold the wood in against the fence.

Matt

[J. Z. Guest]

I think Cary's idea of building the jig is the best so far. Just a simple crosscut jig so that your circ saw isn't a last-ditch option.

[Frederick Rowe]

Craig, If you're just looking to support long pieces of sheet goods being crosscut, try this crosscut sled support. It is featured in detail in this month's Fine Woodworking. It would work fine with the Incra 5000 sled you're looking at.

[Jim Kountz]

Hi, Im looking for a sled that will help me make crosscuts on long ripped sheets of plywood. i.e. 96 inch sheet 16 inch rip, need to cut off 10 inches. I have used my TS many time just by pushing it through but its dangerous and always needs a support hand on the outside.



Thanks

Craig, whats the rip capacity of your saw? Only reason I ask is, if you have a wide rip capacity then you have 48"-50" or more of support to the right of the blade right? What I do in your situation where I only want to lop off 10" or so from a 96"x16" piece, is using a crosscut sled (shop built in my case but the Incra would be fine too) I simply place a small strip of wood on my extension table the same thickness of my sled over as far as possible. This keeps the 96"x16" piece the same distance off the table so its not trying to flop up and down. Then I just clamp the 96"x16" piece to my sled to steady it and guide it through the saw. Its quick, its easy and if clamped properly its safe. Hope this helps.
See my very bad drawing below!