Compressor-pressure release

[Lori Kleinberg]

My sons just got me the Bostitch CPACK3(stealth gloat:D). This contains a 6 gallon oil-free compressor and a framing nailer, brad nailer and stapler. This was actually the system I wanted, but the directions/instructions leave alot to be desired :(. I am a complete newbie when it comes to compressors :eek:.
My question is 'If I pull out the pressure release value, should it stay out or should it pop back in when I release it':confused:
Any other tips would be appreciated.

[Troy Donson]

Lori,

If what you are referring to is a brass "valve", with a small "pin" on top and a ring through it, then yes it should be spring loaded so that it stays closed.

This is, as you said, a pressure relief valve. If for some reason the pressure in the tank should go up beyond a predetermined pressure this valve will open to vent the excess pressure. Otherwise the spring keeps the valve seated so you don't have an air leak.

I hope this helps

Troy

[Lori Kleinberg]

Thanks Troy. I guess this means it has to go back to the store:mad:

[Troy Donson]

Ok so by your reply, I take it it stays out instead of springing back onto it's seat?

I have had this happen before on brand new compressors before. One thing you can check is to see if a drop (and I mean 1 Drop!!) of oil (not wd-40) right where the top of the valve and the body of the valve meets to see if an o-ring may just be a bit dry... Worth a shot.

But if that does not work or you feel uncomfortable, by all means take it back to the store or call tech support and ask about it. It MAY be like that until it sees a "pressure differential", but it would be the first time I have seen that in my 30 years as a car tech and 20 or 30 different compressors I have had to work on... And if you _do_ take it back, check a few of the different floor models for the operation of the valve you are referring to.

Not being able to see it, I am making an assumption that what you are talking about is the same as what I am talking about.... ;)

OK just looked it up on the internet. Is it the valve on the right side of the red knob? If that is the one that concerns you, yes it should move freely out (other than overcoming spring pressure) and snap back in when released.

good luck

Troy

[Lori Kleinberg]

That is the one I am talking about. I hated to have to return it so I tried one more time...This time it worked and has kept working. I thought about the oil thing and was going to ask but you beat me to the punch. Can I use the oil that came with the guns?

[Troy Donson]

Lori, that's what I would use, it's fairly thin and should not get gummy like regular engine oil might....

Glad it's working for you.

As an aside, in agreement with all those having "quality control" issues, I just saw a BRAND NEW $500 Snap-On Air wrench casing crack wide open and spill it's guts all over the shop while the rep was demonstrating it on a set of Toyota Corolla lug nuts...IN REVERSE!!!

A couple of band-aids later and all was well with the rep, but even the "High End" guys occassionaly let a clunker get through. With popularity of the internet, I think we just all hear about it alot more often...

[Lori Kleinberg]

Thanks for your help, Troy. I've already used the compressor and stapler on a couple of small projects. Also making a quick little cart for the compressor (can't move it because of a bad back). I plan to attach the sides of the cart with glue and brads. This is fun:cool:

[Troy Donson]

Well, I don't know that I actually helped or not, but I am glad you're up and running!

After doing everything at work with air ratchets, air hammers, air-everthings I hate going home and using hand tools on stuff like cars, mowers, kids bikes, etc...:D

I love my little Hitachi compressor and my PorterCable guns for the projects I make. They let me pretend to be Norm for just a little while. :p

That is untill my wife comes out and hears me say to myself out loud:

"And we'll fasten the back with some 1 1/4" brads..." Ker-PAP!! Ker-PAP!!

It takes her quite some time to stop laughing...:o

[Josiah Bartlett]

The better pressure relieve valves have some hysteresis built into them, so when they pop under high pressure they stay open until the tank pressure drops to 20-30 psi. This also doubles as a draw-down valve if you need to empty the air tank for some reason.

[Peter Quinn]

I've owned a handful of pancakes at this point and rented a few in a pinch. With most of mine when you pull that pin to drain down the tank, when it drains down to about 20-30PSI it shuts, then you can take it down the rest of the way with the fluid drain on the bottom. That's pretty normal. Sometimes they are a bit sticky till you've gone through it a few times.

My present PC pancake's manual says pulling the relief pin to drain tank pressure before opening the fluid drain is the correct and safe procedure. It sure is quicker!

[Troy Donson]

Josiah and Peter thanks for educating me about this. I have never had to work on the smaller units, just the big rotarys and old quincys. Their poppets just went off when an over-pressure occured or to vent for a zero head pressure startup.

To drain just turn the ball valve and run like heck!! 400 Gallon air tanks are noisey when draining!

Glad to learn this about the small ones. Appreciate the info!

Troy