Repair / Restoration experts - I need help.

[Brandon Shew]

I recently bought a very nice marble top table made by Widdocomb and deisgned by T.H. Robsjohn-Gibbings (bio (http://www.architecturaldigest.com/architects/legends/archive/robsjohn_article_012000)and work (http://www.1stdibs.com/furniture_search.php?i_creator=Robsjohn+Gibbings#) ) from a guy that had it on craigslist locally. I don't think that he knew what he had as I picked it up for a song. I like Gibbings' work and find his design combination of classical references with modern execution very appealing.

Anyway, the seller also had two other T.H.R.J. side tables that had been water damaged which he was going to throw away so I took them as well. As you can see from the pics below, there is significant damage to the veneer on the tops to the point where it needs to be replaced. I have examined the tables in very close detail, and I don't really see a way of getting the veneered substrate panel out of the frame without breaking the glue joint and possibly causing some serious damage to the piece. I don't think that I could do a proper restoration without removing the panel.

I have included some pictures below that show the basic construction of the piece. At this point, they may be nothing more than firewood, but I like the tables and I don't mind putting in a little effort and time into repairing them or possibly finding someone that could do it for me so I could put them to use. Given that the tables would probably fetch several thousand dollars a piece at auction or from a dealer, I'm not that opposed to putting a little $ into it either. Any thoughts.



http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/5858/widdicomb003tr8.jpg

http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/9788/widdicomb004lo1.jpg

http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/6585/widdicomb001kh0.jpg

http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/3940/widdicomb006yp0.jpg

[Mike Wilkins]

From the photo it appears the veneer is in good shape, just with a lot of stains and discoloration. If the veneer is loose, use a thin putty knife to slip some glue underneath and put some weight on top until dry.
The only way I have been able to deal with the dark stains on wood is to use some wood bleach, followed by stain to put the color back into the wood.
Read the directions on the bleach carefully, as this is some less than friendly stuff. The grain will be raised, so use caution when sanding. Don't use a power sander, as it will be too agressive. Use a soft sanding block or just your hand. The power sander can easily sand through a thin veneer.
Ask me how I know.
You may have some treasures on your hand, so tread lightly.
Good luck and watch those fingers.

[Brandon Shew]

Actualy, the veneer is completely shot. It is blown through in several spots (one is visible in the picture of the top). The green "stain" goes straight through to the plywood underneath and I think that it's way beyond bleach.

[Chris Padilla]

Can you carefully route out the veneer with a mortising bit? But then again, I don't know how you might get a new piece back in. Love the joint at the table top and legs...hate to see you try and break that apart....

[Brandon Shew]

Can you carefully route out the veneer with a mortising bit? But then again, I don't know how you might get a new piece back in. Love the joint at the table top and legs...hate to see you try and break that apart....

I spent about 30 minutes today scraping off the veneer. The water damage was bad enough that it came off with little effort.

As you indicate, the problem now is how to lay the new sheet in there. Obviously the correct way would involve disassembling the table and removing the top altogether, but that's not realistic. Cutting the sheet to fit perfectly is going to be interesting...

[Dewey Torres]

Brandon,
Since, if this doesn't work, it will be fire wood (as you say) anyway:

Why don't you cut the new veneer as close as you can and then go back around the outer edge and rout a grove for a solid piece of inlay?

The inlay will hide all of your cutting imperfections on the veneer sheet and it will look super sharp when you are done...

Just a thought

Dewey

[John Keeton]

Make a paper template for the veneer from some heavy paper - maybe freezer paper or something similar. You can use 4 sheets to slide up to the edges, tape them in the middle for one complete pattern. You would not have to make as many cuts, etc. Make sure and mark your orientation.

[Brian Hale]

My first thought was to use a router and sled to remove a bit more than 1/4" of the top thickness and clean up the edges with a chisel. Then make a new veenered top from 1/4" material and set it into the top. This allows you adjust the size on the table saw for a good fit.

Brian :)

[Matt Hutchinson]

I have done a lot of wallpapering in my day, but no veneering. Here's an idea: fit two pieces of veneer, each one being slightly larger that half the tabletop. Used a template, and a straightedge and razor blade, to size these pieces. Then, place one piece snuggly against the frame on the right side, place the other piece snuggly on the left side, and overlap them in the middle. Then, using the straightedge and razor blade again, cut down the middle of the overlap, through both pieces. This will give a perfect seem in the middle. If you can get a good fit around the edges, this should work quite well.

Hutch

[Lee Koepke]

another thought would be to build a frame and use a glass top. It may not be perfect character for the piece, but insetting a frame would be much easier, IMO

[Jeff Duncan]

You may want to try carefully removing one edge of the table to have an access point to slide a new veneer in? As for value I wouldn't worry, from the very little I know about antiques, once you repair/restore or in any way alter the piece it's value pretty is shot. Fix it so that you have a nice piece that you can enjoy yourself.
good luck,
JeffD

[Brandon Shew]

All good suggestions for sure, but I want to try to stay as true to the original design as I can. Now that the original veneer is off, I think that I'm going to try to lay in a new sheet and fit it as exact as possible.


You may want to try carefully removing one edge of the table to have an access point to slide a new veneer in? As for value I wouldn't worry, from the very little I know about antiques, once you repair/restore or in any way alter the piece it's value pretty is shot. Fix it so that you have a nice piece that you can enjoy yourself.
good luck,
JeffD

I don't think that removing an edge is realistic given the way that the table is constructed - at least not without causing more damage. Normally I would agree with you about the restoration of an antique, but this table would have to go another 40 years or so before it hit the real antique stage. Robsjohn-Gibbings' works are in high demand now and even refinished tables similar to mine are fetching $2K-$4K each from dealers ($4700 example (http://www.1stdibs.com/furniture_item_detail.php?id=185774)). And from what I gather - a matched pair is even more desirable.

John Widdicomb has always made nice high-end furniture along the lines of Baker, Moser, etc... and still does (if the price of their new stuff is any indication). I think that Stickley now owns Widdicomb and Stickley's no slouch either. Gibbings himself has had a bit of a resurgence in popularity the last 3-4 years. I think that people are more interested in him from a design and stylistic perspective - not from the "antique" point of view.

I would like to put these to use in our guest bedroom and my goal here really isn't to make any money, but I won't say that that thought hasn't crossed my mind. If I can stay true to form and do a good job in the restoration, there may be some value in these tables that could be realized at some point. A few thousand would do good in my kids college fund (or for a new bandsaw...)