Turning Blanks--Questions

[Mark Stutz]

Please indulge a novice turner with a few more questions. As LOML was helping me set up the lathe, she commisioned a large walnut bowl to hold fruit on the kitchen table. I recently found some 12/4 walnut stock that has been air drying for about 3 months (stickered, covered, etc) that is 12" wide--perfect for the assigned task. Hopefully, I'm up to the challenge, as all my other bowls have been 3-4 inches. Is this wood dry enough to turn in a single setting, or should I rough turn to 1 inch and allow to dry further?

As luck would have it, as I was driving home I drove by a small church where 3 large trees had been taken down and were being cut up--maple, elm, and pecan. I stopped to inquire, offered to buy some, and was told to take all I wanted to help them get rid of it. I now have several nice pieces to deal with, but I do not have a chain saw. I am trying to find one to borrow, though these machines have always intimidated me . I have sealed the end grain with end grain sealer. Questions are 1) How long can the logs be left this way before cutting into blanks? 2) I assume that you want blanks as large as the log will allow, and cut to smaller size as needed? 3) I have looked at Bill G.'s site on cutting logs, but any other sugggestions would be appreciated. 4) Is an electric chain saw, 16 or 18 inch, good enough? I live in a residential area and do not foresee the need to have a saw for felling trees. Thanks in advance.

Mark

[Jim Becker]

Please indulge a novice turner with a few more questions. As LOML was helping me set up the lathe, she commisioned a large walnut bowl to hold fruit on the kitchen table. I recently found some 12/4 walnut stock that has been air drying for about 3 months (stickered, covered, etc) that is 12" wide--perfect for the assigned task. Hopefully, I'm up to the challenge, as all my other bowls have been 3-4 inches. Is this wood dry enough to turn in a single setting, or should I rough turn to 1 inch and allow to dry further? Mark, 3 months for 12/4 stock is almost "nothing" relative to drying. That said, although walnut is relatively stable, turning to a thickness 10% of the diameter, coating the end grain with Anchorseal and letting it continue to dry for a few more months will greatly enhance your ability to get your large bowl finished without incident.


As luck would have it, as I was driving home I drove by a small church where 3 large trees had been taken down and were being cut up--maple, elm, and pecan. I stopped to inquire, offered to buy some, and was told to take all I wanted to help them get rid of it. I now have several nice pieces to deal with, but I do not have a chain saw. I am trying to find one to borrow, though these machines have always intimidated me . I have sealed the end grain with end grain sealer. Questions are 1) How long can the logs be left this way before cutting into blanks? 2) I assume that you want blanks as large as the log will allow, and cut to smaller size as needed? 3) I have looked at Bill G.'s site on cutting logs, but any other sugggestions would be appreciated. 4) Is an electric chain saw, 16 or 18 inch, good enough? I live in a residential area and do not foresee the need to have a saw for felling trees. Many of us have electric chain saws for use around the shop...even if we use a gas-powered saw for the heavier work. A nice 18" Remmington is what I use for that purpose and it will deal with what you need pretty easily. Best yet, it's usually under a hundred bucks for one which is nice since a decent gas unit from Stihl, Husky, etc, will run you close to $300. Don't forget you still need eye protection when using these saws and need to be very careful using them...even and electric chain saw can be quite dangerious to use.

As to your logs sitting, for turning purposes, you can go longer than if you were milling lumber as long as the ends are properly treated to slow down moisture departure. Many folks prefer to cut them right away and rough turn them the same day if possible. Others of us with complicated schedules cut them when we have time. But letting them go too long can cause you to lose material, especially if they are sitting on the ground.

[Mark Stutz]

Thanks Jim, That's pretty much what I thought about the walnut. Guess LOML will have to wait a little longer for the finished product! I'm glad to hear that an electric saw will work! Lots cheaper!! I should have a saw next weekend and can get them out of log form.

[Dennis Peacock]

Mark,

Jim has taken very good care of you here. I just wanted to add that I have had pieces (partially turned, outside of bowl only) and wrapped them up and set them aside. Some of them sat for well over 1 year before I got around to finish the turning. They were still wet enough to warp after turning. I was using red oak and that stuff is as hard as nails when turning dry AND you will need something to protect the hand you put on the tool rest.!! That stuff coming off the tool when the wood is dry is HOT.!!!!! DAMHIKT!!!! :rolleyes:

[Jim Becker]

I was using red oak and that stuff is as hard as nails when turning dry AND you will need something to protect the hand you put on the tool rest.!! That stuff coming off the tool when the wood is dry is HOT.!!!!!
Although I generally don't like "clothing" anywhere near the headstock/turning for safety reasons, I find that I need to wear a fingerless glove on my left hand when turning hard, dry material to avoid burns. I actually did burn myself badly a couple of years ago "toughing it out" like a stupid idiot...including blisters. No more. If it's coming off hot and burning, that fingerless glove goes on. It just happens to be an anti-shock glove, too, so it gets double duty when doing a lot of sanding with the ROS. (Don't have the Festool yet...:o )

[Steve Plunkett]

I've found that an old golf glove with the finger tips cut off works fine for protecting your tool rest hand. You just have to find an old golfer :p

[Matthew Clarke]

Hi Mark,

Here is alternative strategy to deal with freshly cut wood. You can rough turn that 12' piece of walnut, but leave it about 1 1/4" thick. Soak it in a solution of one part laundry detergent to one part water (my bin holds 20 gallons). Leave it there to soak for, at least one night (the longer the better). Let it drip dry then place it in a nice cool spot, to dry, for about 2 weeks. If you want to be SUPER careful, after it drip dries, place it inside of a few shoping bags - I use 4 - and then seal it shut. This will slow down the loss of moisture and extend the drying time by a week or two. It should be ready to finish turn at the end of that time. It may warp a little bit, but it should not crack. This has become my favorite method to stabilize and condition freshly cut wood (and it works wonderfully with dry wood). I have used it on walnut, ash, elm, maple, cherry and oak, with no disappointments to date. Good Luck with it - work safely!

Matt