How many drills do you use when projects use lots of screws?

[Ben Cadotte]

My last shop project was a cabinet for storing automotive fluids and maintenance stuff. For the fisrt time I have all 3 of my cordless drills working (needed a battery for a Dewalt).

Anyway, I ended up using all 3 at once. Makita I had just a 5/32" bit in for predrilling (my countersink drill bit not long enough). My Dewalt I had the countersink in. And my Ryobi I used for driving the screws.

I almost bought one of those quick flip type countersinks / drivers, but thought why not just use 2 drills. In this case I was driving screws longer than the countersink and was a little afraid of splitting the sheeting. So I also used a longer pilot bit. Seemed to work out ok.

What do you use for lots of screws?

[Dwain Lambrigger]

Ben,

I just built a workbench in my garage. I was going to buy the same quick connect counter sink bit too. Norm has one, and it looks cool. I ended up using my DeWalt 14.4 for counter sinking, Ryobi 18V for the screws.

[Lance Norris]

I use 3 also. Drill bit, Drill bit w/countersink, Driver.

[Steve Flavin001]

drills the pilot hole for the screw, countersink for the screw head, and if desired counterbores for the plug. :cool:

Countersink length is adjustable for respective length of screw.

see snappytools.com

Part 40030 contains set of five or available individually for gauge of crew

[Alan Tolchinsky]

I use an plug in drill to drill the holes and an impact driver to drive them. Works well if you're careful not to overdrive.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello,
2, 3 or 4 & sometimes 5 - depending.
My now busted B&D cordless had one excellent feature.

The chuck had a quick release w/a hex shaped driver bit holder under it built onto the shank. I could stick a driver in, and put the chuck on over it - drill - countersink w/another drill, then pull the chuck and drive the screws.
I really missed that a couple of weeks ago when I was putting in some mini blinds.

Last summer I used no less than 5 drills when mounting some treated 2x4's to a basement wall.
1 - Drill a pilot w/a 1/8" bit.
2- Hammer drill the concrete for a Tapcon.
3 - Spade bit to create a large hole to recess the head of a Tapcon.
4 - Screwdriver bit to start/half drive the Tapcons.
5 - Hex head driver bit to finish off the Tapcon and snug it down.
While at first glance, #4 & 5 may seem odd/redundant, It just worked out better - I fell into a rhythm where it was easier to use a screwdriver until the clutch slipped, then finish off with a hex driver to snug it down.
I had ~ 75 or so holes to drill/Tapcons to run.

[J. Z. Guest]

I use one drill with a combination drill/counterbore bit and my impact driver to drive the screws.

If I'm using up the rest of my Home Depot wood screws, I don't use the impact, as it twists the heads off those crappy screws. I'm liking plated drywall screws more and more lately. They're cheap, strong, and available in a wide range of sizes.

Impact drivers don't strip Philips screw heads like drills do, which is nice.

[Jim Becker]

Most of the time, it's just one...my Festool 12v...but during carcass construction, I'll typically use it for driving and use my Dewalt 14.4v for pre-drilling just for efficiency. (McFeeley's square drive screws are all I use)

[Chris Friesen]

I'm liking plated drywall screws more and more lately. They're cheap, strong, and available in a wide range of sizes.

Have you tried Spax or McFeeleys Robertson-head screws? Much stronger than most drywall screws--they're strong enough to drive into hard maple without predrilling (this is likely to split the wood, but is useful for testing screws).

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

(McFeeley's square drive screws are all I use)

I have converted to Star drives.
Nothing else resists cam out like a Torx or star drive (except maybe an internal hex Allen drive)

As to the self drilling screws that are supposed to eliminate pre-drilling I say: BOLLOX~!!
Unless material is removed it still has to go somewhere and a self drilling screw does not eject the chips it just packs 'em in.

[Ryan Sparreboom]

I only own 2 drills. And I use 'em both all the time!

[Prashun Patel]

The more drills, the merrier! Rechucking just means a lot of sore fingers (even with the quickchange chucks) and worse - lost bits (since they like to run away when you put them down).

Nothing beats having enough trim routers and drills to let you have permanently chucked bits!

[Ben Cadotte]

When I watched the NYWS show on the shop hutch. I was like how many routers does a guy need. Well I am actually getting there. I am now up to 5 in the router department. I have more in corded drills though :o

[Travis Rassat]

I thought the same thing when I saw that episode!

[Jude Tuliszewski]

Three, like a few have said; 1 for drilling, 1 for counter sink or counter boar, and one for driving. Less battery change out as well for high screw quantity jobs.

[Jason White]

I bought a pair of 12-volt DeWalt cordless drills when they were on sale at Lowe's for $99 each a couple of years ago.

I use one with a countersinking bit and the other for driving the screws. Nice when you've got one hand holding the work and the other is doing the drilling and driving. I keep them right next to each other within easy reach.

Jason


My last shop project was a cabinet for storing automotive fluids and maintenance stuff. For the fisrt time I have all 3 of my cordless drills working (needed a battery for a Dewalt).

Anyway, I ended up using all 3 at once. Makita I had just a 5/32" bit in for predrilling (my countersink drill bit not long enough). My Dewalt I had the countersink in. And my Ryobi I used for driving the screws.

I almost bought one of those quick flip type countersinks / drivers, but thought why not just use 2 drills. In this case I was driving screws longer than the countersink and was a little afraid of splitting the sheeting. So I also used a longer pilot bit. Seemed to work out ok.

What do you use for lots of screws?

[Joe Jensen]

I use as many as are handy. In the shop usually a min of 2, a drill and an impact driver. Often 3 or 4. When outside the shop, one..joe

[Walt Caza]

Good question Ben,
When building furniture with screws concealed by tapered plugs,
I find it most efficient to use three drills.
In the shop, I like corded VSR drills with good power and no batteries to
play with...I want it to work when I ask it to!

I often use a 3/8"dia forstner for screw heads, clearance drill so that
the screw does not 'jack' my hardwood boards apart, and a Robby red#8
to drive the screws home.
take it easy,
Walt
:)