Table Saw/Planer Table rust! :(

[Matt Ellis]

I bought a new 1023 and 15" planer back around december of last year. Both have been a real pleasure to use, but I am constantly fighting with surface rust on the cast table tops. Unfortunately, they are currently limited to living in my (unconditioned space) garage, and middle GA is not known as the driest place on earth.

I've sanded the tops with 400/600/1000 grit paper to remove the rust and coated the exposed steel VERY liberally with carnauba paste wax, and i am still getting some rust. is there another product out there? has anyone stripped and painted their table tops?

-matt

[Lee Schierer]

I use Johnson paste wax on mine and recoat it when I see rust appearing. I apply the wax with an #0000 steel wool pad dipped in the wax, let it dry and buff with an old towel. We don't get nearly as humid as you do so I only need to do this about twice a summer.

Where I used to work we fought rust all the time on the cast iron machined surfaces on the parts we made. We tested lots of techniques. The most successful was with Boeshield T-9. Spray it on and let it dry between uses. Right before you go to use the equipment, spray it again and then wipe it off. This will clean up the dried material and leave a slick surface. Spray it again after use and let it dry.

[Jerry White]

I am near the Texas Gulf Coast...very humid. I have a routine that has evolved from experience:

1. On new or rusted cast iron, I use Empire Topsaver to clean or restore. (You may not need step 1).

2. Then spray a thick coat of Boeshield T-9. Allow to sit about a day. Lightly wipe and allow surface to dry a couple more days.

3. Finally, coat with paste wax and buff. This step is to minimize friction.

Works for me, as I can go 8 to 12 months without danger of rust. Wax alone never worked for me.

[Matt Ellis]

is there a local source for the Boe-Shield product?

-matt

[Travis Rassat]

Woodcraft and Rockler both sell Boeshield T-9 - I'm not sure how close you are to one of their stores.

[Ted Torres]

is there a local source for the Boe-Shield product?

-matt

My local Sears (B-store) carries the T-9!

[Matt Woessner]

Hartville Tool also carries T-9, I found that they have been cheaper on the product and their shipping is cheaper.

[Brent Smith]

Hi Matt,

I've found that a good cleaning with mineral spirits then a liberal application of TopCote does the trick. Let the TopCote sit for 4-5 minutes before buffing it out. Another good product is the HTC machine covers for longer times without use.

[alex grams]

I am in Houston (near Katy where Jerry is). I use a regular regiment of paste wax. Pretty much after every significant project/use I rub them down with Johnson's paste wax and buff it off. That way they aren't sitting there during downtime unprotected.

I also make sure to not use the surface of any of them as resting places for wood or items. Items sitting on it could easily hold moisture against the tables.

[Ben Cadotte]

I use regular paste wax fairly often. When I know I am going to be gone on a long trip. I will do them again even if I think they might not need it. More you use the tools the more you need to wax them.

Since your humidity is so high, I would try Boeshield next like some of the others have suggested. Then wax on top for nice slick surface.

[Scott Rychnovsky]

I use bronze wool instead of steel wool to remove rust on my cast iron surfaces. The advantage is that it cuts through the rust easily but will not *ever* scratch your iron surface.

Fortunately, my climate is dry enough that the battle against rust is relatively easy to win.

Scott

[Brian Backner]

While my woodworking tools are in my basement and rarely give me problems with rust, all of my machine tools (Bridgeports, etc.) are in the garage and it is a constant battle.

I have tried Boeshield and 97 other formulations over the years. The one product that works for me is Starrett M1 oil - spray it on (it also comes in 1 gallon bottles and 5 gallon buckets), allow it to dry and then buff it out and you're done. It has a carrier that evaporates, leaving a thin film behind. A heavy treatment has kept rust at bay for an entire summer in coastal Massachusetts, which, while not as humid as some other places, does get quite nasty in July and August.

Unfortunately, I have no idea how it would react with wood and/or subsequent finishes.

To find it you will need to go to a place catering to machinists. It is actually quite affordable for something with the Starrett name on it - about $6 for a 12 oz aerosol or $25 for the gallon bottle.

Brian

[Jerry White]

I also make sure to not use the surface of any of them as resting places for wood or items. Items sitting on it could easily hold moisture against the tables.

I second Alex on this. I usually brush or vacuum the sawdust off the top of my saw after a cutting session. Once, I thought I would be right back in an hour or so, and left the sawdust. Well, that hour turned into a few days and the hated rust did form underneath the dust! :(

[jason lambert]

if it is bad try corrosian x I have had better luck than bio shield of coures it leaves some oil behind. just make sure to put it on and recoat with whatever before you store it for a long time.