Newbie woodworker

[MATT HASSMER]

Hey, guys

I have recently started playing with my woodworking tools I got for various special occasions & I am building some drawers. I need some help rounding off the drawer faces. I want to round off the corner as much as possible without any edge to the roundover. I did some practice passes with some left over stock, but there is still an edge to the roundover. Any ideas? How do I set the correct depth (stock is a piece of 1/2" x 6"? Do I need a fence? I guess I was relying on the bearing to keep the router from wandering into the stock too far...

[Michael McCoy]

I'm not sure if I'm clear on what you're asking but you don't necessarily HAVE to have a fence but it's usually safer. I use a starting pin quite often and when used properly, it's very safe. The edge you are getting from the bit is normally just a matter of how you have it set.

[Amy Leigh Baker]

I am using a roundover a lot on my current project. If the bit is set too low on the workpiece it will leave an edge. Try raising the bit until you lose the edge, but not too far as you begin to lose the roundover. It took a few tries on scrap, but I eventually found the sweet spot.

Also, cut all adjoining pieces on the one set-up so that everything will mate correctly.

Hope this helps!

Amy

[Mike SoRelle]

Hey, guys

I have recently started playing with my woodworking tools I got for various special occasions & I am building some drawers. I need some help rounding off the drawer faces. I want to round off the corner as much as possible without any edge to the roundover. I did some practice passes with some left over stock, but there is still an edge to the roundover. Any ideas? How do I set the correct depth (stock is a piece of 1/2" x 6"? Do I need a fence? I guess I was relying on the bearing to keep the router from wandering into the stock too far...

I think what you're looking for is a bullnose profile, I usually do it with a pin and a bering guided roundover not the fence, and it always takes some practice cuts to dial the bit at just the right position.

An actual bullnose profile bit would probably be best for anything you were going to do alot of, doing it with a roundover isn't perfect since the surface for the bearing doesn't remain constant. If you get it almost perfect, you might still have a little ridge that you can take off on an OSS or just by hand sanding.

[Greg Hines, MD]

For any straight piece you will find that you will have better control and it will be safer to use a fence, regardless of whether your bit has a bearing on it or not. It sounds like you also need to do more test pieces. It is usually easier to start your bit lower than you think you need, so that you can creep up on the right height. In that fashion, you can continue to reuse your test piece until you get it right. If you start out too deep, you have ruined your test piece, and have to rip a new edge to test on.

Doc

[MATT HASSMER]

Yeah, I guess that's what I really need help on; setting the depth of the router to have a smooth rounded edge.on the facade. There's also an edge on the bottom of the cut. Can I get rid of that by taking off the bearing on the bit? I think it's sounding more like I need a fence so I don't cut too deep into the wood...

[MATT HASSMER]

I'm not sure if I'm clear on what you're asking but you don't necessarily HAVE to have a fence but it's usually safer. I use a starting pin quite often and when used properly, it's very safe. The edge you are getting from the bit is normally just a matter of how you have it set.


starting pin? don't think i've seen one of those. is this attached to the router? the surface your stock is clamped to?

[J. Z. Guest]

From your post, it seems like you are using the router freehand. Leave the bearing on the round over bit. raise the bit in the router little-by-little until you're not getting the edge at the top. There should never be an edge at the bottom, unless the bearing is the wrong size for the bit. (too small)

Welcome to Sawmill Creek!

[Mike SoRelle]

From your post, it seems like you are using the router freehand. Leave the bearing on the round over bit. raise the bit in the router little-by-little until you're not getting the edge at the top. There should never be an edge at the bottom, unless the bearing is the wrong size for the bit. (too small)

Welcome to Sawmill Creek!


You're absolutely right Jeremy, I completely assumed router table, but I don't think that's the case.

[Jim Becker]

Doing round-overs on both sides of typical 3/4" material requires the use of a fence. The first cut is no problem as the bearing has something to run along, but the second cut just doesn't work without a fence. It's best to do these using a router table and fence, utilizing feather boards/hold-downs to keep the material flat on the table for an accurate edge. You may be able to do it with a hand-held router with an edge guide but normal hand movement is typically going to provide variations in the quality of the end result.

[MATT HASSMER]

Doing round-overs on both sides of typical 3/4" material requires the use of a fence. The first cut is no problem as the bearing has something to run along, but the second cut just doesn't work without a fence. It's best to do these using a router table and fence, utilizing feather boards/hold-downs to keep the material flat on the table for an accurate edge. You may be able to do it with a hand-held router with an edge guide but normal hand movement is typically going to provide variations in the quality of the end result.

nope. i have no router table & i'm only trying to roundover one side. like i said, i've very new to woodworking & especially routing. while practicing on scrap, the best i did still had a little edge left at the bottom of the cut.

[J. Z. Guest]

while practicing on scrap, the best i did still had a little edge left at the bottom of the cut.

Matt: replace that bit with a quality one. The bearing is too small. Router bits are expensive, especially when the newbie considers all the other money he has to put out for tools. But bits & jigs are what make the router so darned versatile!

Menards carries Bosch bits at decent prices. Home Depot carries Freud at higher prices. However, except for immediate needs, I've bought all my bits from www.mlcswoodworking.com (http://www.mlcswoodworking.com) at great savings and with great satisfaction. Their Katana bits are among the best in the business. The "regular" ones are good quality and won't let you down, but not quite as well finished or with as much carbide.

A suggestion for a next project: router table. A router table will triple the usefulness of a router. That and a good router book. (I like Bill Hylton's)

[MATT HASSMER]

Matt: replace that bit with a quality one. The bearing is too small. Router bits are expensive, especially when the newbie considers all the other money he has to put out for tools. But bits & jigs are what make the router so darned versatile!

Menards carries Bosch bits at decent prices. Home Depot carries Freud at higher prices. However, except for immediate needs, I've bought all my bits from www.mlcswoodworking.com (http://www.mlcswoodworking.com) at great savings and with great satisfaction. Their Katana bits are among the best in the business. The "regular" ones are good quality and won't let you down, but not quite as well finished or with as much carbide.

A suggestion for a next project: router table. A router table will triple the usefulness of a router. That and a good router book. (I like Bill Hylton's)

i definitely plan on building a table & have already researched several plans. i agree that the router table is almost a necessity. i have to build my workshop as funds are available. =-)

i'm looking forward to many more projects; my wife has created a never-ending "Honey-Do List" that includes a craft table for her & closet organizers for our room & our sons room.

eventually, i'd like to build 2 toddler beds for our little girls. Uh, i mean princesses.

[Lee Schierer]

Matt, If you are using a hand held router and you are getting grooves or steps on the edge of the wood toward the bearing, then the router bit bearing is the wrong size.

If the step or edge is on the top surface of the board, then adjust the depth of cut to be slightly less until the step goes away.

Stick with quality bits like Freud, Amana or CMT. Lesser priced bits generally give lesser performance.

[MATT HASSMER]

has anyone out there used the router bits made by Grizzly?

[Lee Koepke]

has anyone out there used the router bits made by Grizzly?
i got a set of the 1/4" ones ( as a free-bie to my tablesaw order ) .. they are OK ... not bad, not great, just OK. I have a few Whiteside bits that have worked well.

[MATT HASSMER]

i have a small shop (pretty much a shed) & was thinking i could use a shop vac for dust collection. will that work? should i be looking for a particular standard as far as capacity or power?