Keeping track of what blade is in which plane?

[Jim Belair]

How do folks keep track of the set up of various planes in their till? As my collection of bodies and blades grows it gets more difficult, especially if I've been out of the shop for a while (I know, I know, just solve that problem).

In addition to the crown/no crown, there is also bevel angle and even back bevel or not (BD). The interchangeability within the LV bevel up line means the ID should be on the blade, not the body (exept for those fortunate enough to TWO of everything http://forum.canadianwoodworking.com/images/smilies/smile.gif).

I've been marking on the top of the blade with felt tip, then covering mark with clear tape, but on some/most block planes the blade is covered. Colour coding on edge of blade perhaps?

Thanks
Jim B

http://forum.canadianwoodworking.com/images/misc/progress.gif

[Jim Koepke]

How do folks keep track of the set up of various planes in their till? As my collection of bodies and blades grows it gets more difficult, especially if I've been out of the shop for a while (I know, I know, just solve that problem).

In addition to the crown/no crown, there is also bevel angle and even back bevel or not (BD). The interchangeability within the LV bevel up line means the ID should be on the blade, not the body (exept for those fortunate enough to TWO of everything http://forum.canadianwoodworking.com/images/smilies/smile.gif).

I've been marking on the top of the blade with felt tip, then covering mark with clear tape, but on some/most block planes the blade is covered. Colour coding on edge of blade perhaps?

Thanks
Jim B

I think you are making it too complicated.

The only places I would see a real conflict is with my No. 4 & No. 5 planes as there are a lot of them and they all use the same blade. I have not done much to back bevel blades nor do I use a lot of different angles on bevel down bench planes. So in effect, all the blades are interchangeable. Then again, all of these planes are of different vintage. So, all of the blades have different logos on them.

Same with most of my other planes that can take the blade of another.

Same with the block planes with bevel up as for the vintage part. Then for different bevel angles, there is a simple angle gauge available from Lee Valley and other sources.

It is my tendency to accumulate extra blades for all my planes. This comes in handy when working and a blade starts to dull Or if one plane has an original blade that is being kept for the day the plane is sold.

So, I guess in the long run the easiest way to keep from becoming confused is to make things less confusing.

If back bevels and different angles were something my fancy desired, then most likely a system of marking the blades would be devised.

Symbols and such that can be removed for future changes would be something like; 30-5-0 for 30° main bevel with 5° back bevel and NO radius or 25-0-R 25° main bevel no back bevel and radius on the corners.

jim

[Randal Stevenson]

I don't have enough planes to worry about that (still falling down the slope), but how do you store your planes?


Couldn't you either store like setups together, or store them in the order you use them (most used to least)?

[Greg Crawford]

Jim, I wish I had your problem. So far, my only trouble like you mention is keeping track of which blade is in my Veritas LA Jack. I have all three blades, and I just keep them in the box if they're not in the plane. I have to find the empty box to know which is installed, but it's a system that works.

If you could add an etch by the logo on the blade, it should be easy to see. Don't know if that's a good solution or not. If you come up with something, please post it.

[Michael Faurot]

I have the Veritas Low Angle Jack, plus two other blades that fit it. I keep track of the blades for it via a custom box I made. I've also written the blade angle each blade provides on it with a Sharpie.

[dan grant]

dont worry after sharpening them 10 or 20 times youll know where they go:) dan ps i like that box idea

[harry strasil]

not a problem here, only one plane of each style except for specialty ones, smooth, jack, fore, trying, jointer, they all have their original blades and never get changed. Demo set are all woodies, basement shop set are all transitional.

[Eddie Darby]

When you set-up a plane to do a specific job, you could leave a note on a piece of paper in the mouth area of the plane to tell you what it was last left set-up for.

[Derek Cohen]

Jim

I usually make a note on the blade with a waterproof felt tip marker. This is especially important for the LV BU blades as I have several that look the same - it is difficult to tell from a microbevel what the bevel angle is! I have the option of 4 different blades for the LV LA Jack.

I use a "S" for straight, "FC" is fine camber, "MC" is medium camber, etc. Plus the bevel angle (25, 35, 50, etc).

The markings do wear off and so need to be maintained.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Danny Thompson]

Nice box idea, Michael!

[Michael Faurot]

Nice box idea, Michael!

Thanks. I got tired of dealing with the original cardboard boxes and baggies the blades came in so I came up with the box. In addition to keeping the blades all together in one place, they're protected from banging into each over via the dividers. I also left myself some room to grow as I don't yet have the toothing blade, but intend to get it soon.