Help deciding on a power sharpening system

[Brian J Holmes]

So I'm looking for suggestions on a power sharpening system, but first a little background.

Several years ago I fell off of a roof and shattered both wrists, they were successfully repaired but I still have a fair amount of pain and repetitive tasks tend to wear them out faster.

I currently have a Japanese waterstone setup that works very well to sharpen my chisels and plane irons but the repetitive process and heavy fingertip pressure required means that by the time I get my chisels sharpened my wrists are pretty much done for the day.

So I'd like to find a power sharpening system that lets me spend more "wrist" time working on projects and less sharpening. I only really have a need to sharpen bench chisels and plane irons, I don't do any turning.

I've looked at the Jet wet system and the Tormek as well as the new worksharp system.

Which one would you guys suggest? I like the idea of the worksharp not requiring water but I worry that it will get the iron too hot. Does anybody use the worksharp? and between the Jet system and the Tormek pros/cons?

Thanks in advance for any help

[Glen Blanchard]

I can only comment on the Worksharp. I love it. Never had a problem with overheating, and the recommended technique along with the design of the sharpener are supposed to prevent it. Does a great job and it is fast.

I would certainly buy it again.

[Bob Noles]

For what it is worth.... I sold my Tormek system and bought the WS3000. Got tired of all the water mess and I don't have plumbing in my shop.

You can read between the lines on this and your mileage may vary.

[Brian J Holmes]

Thanks guys!

[Rick Levine]

Definitely the Worksharp 3000. I bought one and couldn't be happier. I gave up on the whetstones after spending nearly 2 hours on trying to flatten the back and sharpen one 1 1/2" chisel. I have 12 chisels and was able to sharpen all of them in less time than that 1 1/2" one and I mean hair splitting sharp!

[Ben Cadotte]

I have the Worksharp 3000. Caught it on Amazon for $169. Have not tried the others. I have done chisels, and lathe tools with it so far. My chisels are Craftsman and its amazing the difference in them. They are absolutely scary sharp. I didn't take the back to complete mirror finish (about half is mirror) as I figured the more I sharpen them the more the mirror finish will come out as they get resharpened in the future. Made a huge difference on the lathe tools. Made a huge difference after the first sharpening (was just practicing). Actually suprised me.

I was also able to catch some of the accessories at discounts as well. So I picked up extra discs, and plates. I have a plate for each grit now, rough through microfine. I figured not having to change paper on the discs would save time and hassle. And most likely the paper would last longer. As constant sticking and removing would ruin the sticky side.

[Doug Shepard]

Yeah WS3000. The only real drawback is the 2" blade limitation which cant handle 3 of my plane blades (5 if you count the extra irons on by BU jointer). It's fast and essentially a sped up version of what I'd do myself on plate glass w/ sandpaper. From what I've read though, there are better choices if you're trying to do turning or carving tools but if it's flat it works great.

[Steve Paxson]

I own the Jet system. I bought most of the attachments and needless to say, made a large investment for a sharpener. I watched the Tormak demo at the Woodworking Show in Milwaukee and was impressed. After looking at the Jet and Tormak, I bought the Jet to save a few bucks. They both do exactly the same thing with the same looking attachments. The attachments are also interchangable with each other.
If you have a lot of time to sharpen your tools, get the Tormak or Jet. The finish is GREAT, BUT.....takes forever! I'm thrilled with the end result, but it takes way too long to get there!

[Mark Carlson]

For what it is worth.... I sold my Tormek system and bought the WS3000. Got tired of all the water mess and I don't have plumbing in my shop.

You can read between the lines on this and your mileage may vary.

Me too. I have a Tormek and replaced it with a worksharp. I still have the Tormek but never use it now. Didn't like the water aspect of the system and I get much better results with the worksharp.

~mark

[Jesse Cloud]

Make it three. I sold my tormek after getting a worksharp. The WS isn't as flexible as the Tormek, but setup and cleanup time is close to zero. I would ut off using the Tormek because of the mess and the trickiness of getting it calibrated just right. Now with the WS I go back and rehone after 30 minutes or so of work - what a difference.

Also with the worksharp, you don't have to put a lot of pressure on the chisel and there are way fewer reps than with a stone.:cool:

Never had a problem with overheating. That includes when I first got it, I reground all my chisels. I do sometimes have a problem getting that top nut loose if I have been using the same wheel for a long time.

Like the idea of a plate for each grit!

[Eddie Darby]

I would consider taking a look at the Lap-Sharp. It's main drawback is that it ain't cheap!:eek: But that seems to be the only deficiency it has.

http://www.lapsharp.com/

[Rick Levine]

The Lap-Sharp looks nice and the jigs available seem to make it very usable, but the price, ouch! I think I'll stick with the Worksharp 3000. Besides they are supposed to be coming out with some jigs in the next few months.

[Ben Cadotte]

Like the idea of a plate for each grit!

If you get some more plates. Just remember to mark the edge of the glass plate with the grit. I didn't do this, and was having to lift up the edge of the paper to see what the grit was. :rolleyes:

[Luis Oliveira]

I hear very good review of the worksarp 3000.
I have a question, the specs say that the sharpening port can only accept blades upto 2" wide, how do you go about sharpening blades when they are wider than 2".

[Ben Cadotte]

I hear very good review of the worksarp 3000.
I have a question, the specs say that the sharpening port can only accept blades upto 2" wide, how do you go about sharpening blades when they are wider than 2".

On top. The port is for using the bottom of the wheel. You will have to do this by hand or rig up some kind of holder to use with the supplied guide bar on top.

[Luis Oliveira]

Thanks Ben!