No threads in base for Tote bolt

[Doug Hobkirk]

The receptacle for the main threaded rod that holds the tote have been hogged out (the receptacle for the second bolt are fine). The threads that remain get no grip. My intuition is I have 3 choices:


throw the Stanley #7 Type 9 away (it's other problem is no lateral adjustment lever, but I figured I could deal with that)
get a machinist to enlarge the hole, re-tap threads, and use a long bolt with the larger thread size
epoxy the long tote stud in place, using the tote as a guide to assure correct alignment

Is there any hope that #3 would be sufficient?
Would #2 be plausible?

[Ray Gardiner]

Hi Doug,

What about a thread repair kit. (just google "thread repair kit") there
are a number of different types. Designed for repairing stripped threads.

Better than throwing it away.

[Michael Faurot]

I've not done a repair like this myself, but some thoughts occur to me about this:

1) If you tap new larger threads in the base of the plane, and then replace the threaded rod with a new one, you'll also need to tap new threads in the brass screw that holds the tote to the threaded rod. Seems like it would be less expensive to just buy an inexpensive tap and dye set and do this yourself, than it would be to take it to a machinist.

2) I seem to recall reading somewhere that the threads used for the hardware in Stanley/Bailey planes are not standard. So this idea may not work. But if you can get a tap that matches the threads, seems like it should be possible to fill the hole and then drill and tap it. Someone with more metal working experience would need to comment on this and what to fill the hole with. But if this worked, then you'd be able to use the original threaded rod and brass screw.

[Jim Mims]

I don't think it'd help you, but this post reminded me of a post of Bob Smalser's that I really enjoyed. It's titled "Files, Filing, Filling and Finishing...Metal"
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=7784

- Jim

[Jim Koepke]

The receptacle for the main threaded rod that holds the tote have been hogged out (the receptacle for the second bolt are fine). The threads that remain get no grip. My intuition is I have 3 choices:


throw the Stanley #7 Type 9 away (it's other problem is no lateral adjustment lever, but I figured I could deal with that)
get a machinist to enlarge the hole, re-tap threads, and use a long bolt with the larger thread size
epoxy the long tote stud in place, using the tote as a guide to assure correct alignment

Is there any hope that #3 would be sufficient?
Would #2 be plausible?

Pick door #4.
I had this same problem with with a 5-1/2 I bought.

My solutions seems to have worked very well.

I used JB Weld, but other products will work in a similar manner.

I used a small wooden paddle to apply the mixture to the threads, being careful to not let it slump into the hole. Take the time to let the mixture set up a little before putting it in the hole.

The threads are a 12-20. These taps are available from VictorNet.

I will send you the URL in a PM to comply with the rules here about posting sites of things for sale.

The have a $25 minimum order. I bought three of the taps so I could grind the end on one to make a bottoming tap.

If you have the tap handles and such, you are in business. If not, they are easy to come by at any hardware store. If you are brave, you can use a crescent wrench.

As to the rods, I have not been able to find a 12-20 die. However, Greenfield tap and die does make adjustable two piece dies. They are of the "Little Giant" series. I bought both a 1/4-20 and a 1/4-28 pair. These require collets to hold them. So if you do not have the holders, check out on eBay what is needed. There is also a wrench to open the collet, but that would not be too hard to fake.

The 1/4-20 can be adjusted down to restore the threads on the old tote shaft if necessary.

I bought mine from McMasterCar.com. This was after buying the taps, so I did not check their site for the taps.

The 1/4-28 is another of the odd sizes used by Stanley.

If you do try to make a bottoming tap with one of the 12-20 taps, be careful to not grind too much or too fast. The first one I did was a little too much metal off and some of the cutters chipped off.

It did do the job at hand and there is one spare in my set to work with.

Good luck,

jim

[Jim Koepke]

Here is a picture of the Greenfield adjustable die inside its collet.

Note: There are a few different collet sizes. The dies and collets have to be the same series. Mine are the A1 size which is a 1-1/4 outside diameter collet.

jim

[Tony Zaffuto]

I've done repairs also, like Jim has described, with JB Weld. A method I recently used that was successful, was to grease up the screw/stud, fill the hole with mixed up JB Weld, and let harden. When dry, simply back out the screw/stud. Marvelous stuff, but make sure you thoroughly clean the hoel with acetone prior to applying the mix.

T.Z.

[Jim Koepke]

I've done repairs also, like Jim has described, with JB Weld. A method I recently used that was successful, was to grease up the screw/stud, fill the hole with mixed up JB Weld, and let harden. When dry, simply back out the screw/stud. Marvelous stuff, but make sure you thoroughly clean the hoel with acetone prior to applying the mix.

T.Z.

I was thinking of this method, but was afraid of voids created by the grease in the threads. I guess one could do a real thin coat.

I decided to go the other route since I am retired and may take up plane fettling to make a little extra $pending ca$h.

jtk