Laminate coutnertop material

[Matthew Carroll]

I've built several countertops in the past using plywood, and particle board. What do you all think is the best material for a laminate countertop. Plywood, Particle Board, MDF? Others?

I typically go 1.5 inches thick with two pieces of 3/4" material.

My current project is for a 90 deg. desk with a corner and two end base cabinets. I'll probably run some horizontal supports along the walls underneath the countertop between the cabinets for support.

Any suggestions?

[Jim Becker]

Particle board is typical for plastic laminates, but I've used MDF for those I've done. Just about any flat sheet stock will work fine as long as it's properly supported.

[Nancy Laird]

All of the countertop shops around here use particle board. Hubby worked for four years building countertops, and that's all they used---he used that for all the countertops in my house.

You don't have to build in two layers - build the top in one layer, then do "build-up" around the perimeter - strips of the same material about 2" wide glued and pin-nailed. Reduces the weight of the finished countertop.

[Matthew Carroll]

Thanks,
Nancy, I've done it that way as well with the 2" strips.

[Howard Acheson]

Particle board or MDF which ever is less expensive. Both make excellent substrates for plastic laminate. If you want more thickness, glue two layers together or just glue on 4-6 wide pieces on the front edge. Your framing should provide enough support. You don't need double thickness for the whole top. Use solvent based contact cement to glue the layers together.

[Ron Bontz]

I am getting ready to make new counter tops for my kitchen this week as well, I hope. I have used both plywood and particle board. I am opting for particle board this time (3/4" thick with build up at the seams ,L Shape, and anchor points) Routed hardwood edging. The cheaper plywoods warp to easy these days, the double layer ,1-1/2" thick, weighs obviously twice as much, cost twice as much, and if you get any warping or twisting for one reason or the other it is a-lot easier to pull down those spots with 3/4". Hopefully you shouldn't get that. If you choose not to add back splash you may wish to add build up along the back for added strength depending on the span. Of course the old reliable solvent based contact cement is by far the best way to go in my book. I use Weldwood brand (can I say that?) and generally apply two healthy coats. The first tends to soak in. The cement is also smelly and flammable. That's my quarters worth. Best of luck.