Using wood auger bits on Drill Press

[Chuck Turner]

Can one use wood auger bits on a drill press if the end of bit is cylindrical?
Thanks Chuck:eek:

[Randal Stevenson]

Don't cylindrical drill bits (drills in machinist talk), normally get used in a drill press?:confused::confused:

The big problem would be speed. Auger bits are generally used in either a brace (neander), or something along the lines of a hole hawg (right angle drill, two speed, lot's o torque).

[Alan Schwabacher]

An auger bit with a threaded spur will self-feed, and that's dangerous on a drill press. If the spur is simply conical, it would probably work OK in a drill press. An old auger bit designed for a brace would need its end modified to fit in a drill press chuck though. Is that what you meant by cylindrical -- the square part to fit into a brace is cut off?

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

I've used augers of all types in my DP. So long as the shank is round & it fits the chuck it's fine.

With an aggressive self feeder ( few are very aggressive) you might want to set it all up on a board with a hole under where the tip will pierce the work. That way you won't gouge the table

[Tom Esh]

Be very careful. Like Alan said, the self-feed nature of those bits can be dangerous on a DP or even a portable. They can suddenly feed so fast you loose control and then a variety of bad things can happen - the workpiece gets wrenched loose, bit bottoms out, DP stalls. I tried one of those Irwin speed bore bits on the DP once. I had a lot of 7/8 holes to drill in 2x4 stock and it seemed like it might be a good comprimise between a spade and a forstner. Even at the lowest speed in an instant it yanked the quill lever out of my hand and buried itself in the stock before the DP belt started slipping. (I can only imagine how that might feel on a portable drill.) I gound most of the thread off the spur and used it to finish the job, but a spade would have been a lot less trouble.

[Chuck Turner]

Thanks guys for all your comments!.. I have a complete set of bits both with a round end that fits perfect in the chuck. My problems have been the screw spur torque is so much that the belt slips. I also have complete set of bits for a brace. I'm going to try using a pre-drilled hole to take away the spur screw, the reason it is there is to apply downward force. So if I pre drill that area out it should work fine as long as I take my time and not get to aggressive. Thanks again for everyones help.
Chuck

[Josiah Bartlett]

I would run the belt loose so if it hangs up you don't end up breaking something. Also, run the press on the lowest speed you have.

But why not just invest in some forstner bits, they work great on a drill press?

[David DeCristoforo]

"I'm going to try using a pre-drilled hole to take away the spur screw, the reason it is there is to apply downward force..."

True but not the whole story. The threaded lead in will draw the bit into the wood but it also serves as a center. These bits are typically not "rim guided" so if you drill out the center to clear the lead in, you may have some problems.

[Brian Weick]

what's up with that chuck ~ I'm confused? are you not happy using the bits on a drill press or not happy with the article about the planer stand? not being a smarty pants, ~ just curious :)
Sincerely,
Brian

[Peter Quinn]

My Dad (former electrician) used to use self feed augers in a Hole Hog to drill through beams and joists for running wires and such. I don't recall them making what I'd call finished quality cuts. I think speed and ease was more the issue. Having seen how quickly they could throw a 200# man off the ground or to the ground off a ladder I'd be ill at ease chucking that kind of bit in a DP with an induction motor. I used a bit and brace as a kid and seem to recall the self feed on those keeping the bit centered as Mr. D mentioned above.

Perhaps for the drill press a small investment in some brad point and forshners would be a safer and more accurate option.

[Doug Shepard]

I just found this using the Googlesearch so sorry if this is abit old. But I saw some clearance sale auger bits on Bridge City's site that look to be a pretty good price from my brief check against Highland Hardware.
http://www.bridgecitytools.com/Categories/Clearance
I dont have an immediate need for auger bits but I'm always on the lookout for a good deal. These look quite a bit different from the ones I've seen though. Anybody used any of these and are these a good deal?