Finewoodworking #6 spring 1977

[Jerome Hanby]

I'm doing some research into cutting wooden threads. I want to be able to cut threads larger than the 1.5" threadboxes and Beall gizmos will cut. That issue of Finewoodworking's cover story is about wooden threads, I was wondering if anyone was familiar with that issue. I've found a copy that I can buy for about $15, but I'd sure like to know if it's worth the cost/effort!

The 2" stuff from bigwoodvise is awfully tempting, but I'd like to take a shot at doing the threading myself.

Any info appreciated!

[Ben Cadotte]

I'm doing some research into cutting wooden threads. I want to be able to cut threads larger than the 1.5" threadboxes and Beall gizmos will cut. That issue of Finewoodworking's cover story is about wooden threads, I was wondering if anyone was familiar with that issue. I've found a copy that I can buy for about $15, but I'd sure like to know if it's worth the cost/effort!

The 2" stuff from bigwoodvise is awfully tempting, but I'd like to take a shot at doing the threading myself.

Any info appreciated!

I am blocked at work. But someone with FWW online should be able to bring it up. Their yearly $35 is worth it in my opinion (online subscription).

[Jerome Hanby]

I am blocked at work. But someone with FWW online should be able to bring it up. Their yearly $35 is worth it in my opinion (online subscription).

I subscribed to their website (Tauton) and couldn't find it. I'm thinking their online stuff my not reach that far back. I found that issue on Amazon of all places and bought it with one-click. Guess I'll find out if it's worth having :eek:

[Chris Padilla]

Well, if you have access to a metal lathe, they can cut threads of near infinite possibilities.

If you think about threads and the simple incline plane, you could make a template of the right ramp size/angle, and wrap it around a wooden cylinder and mark it off and handcut the threads.

Found this place: http://www.fine-tools.com/gewind.htm but you won't like the prices!!

Googling "wooden thread cut" yields some interesting stuff.

[Jerome Hanby]

No metal working gear here (outside a few saw blades and files). I need to find a machinist with computer problems and do some bartering :p

Laying out the threads, cutting a saw kerf along the lines, and using two sheets of metal on small ramps is the method Roy Underhill outlines in his Woodwright's Workbook. I've actually thought about buying a 1.5" wood thread kit, making a screw, threading a hole and then mounting a cutter at the end of the screw. Then I could adjust it out to make a larger diameter cut in what would become a larger threadbox which would produce a larger screw. I could repeat that as necessary and eventually bootstrap myself up to a 3" tap and threadbox. Sounds like a lot of work:(


Well, if you have access to a metal lathe, they can cut threads of near infinite possibilities.

If you think about threads and the simple incline plane, you could make a template of the right ramp size/angle, and wrap it around a wooden cylinder and mark it off and handcut the threads.

Found this place: http://www.fine-tools.com/gewind.htm but you won't like the prices!!

Googling "wooden thread cut" yields some interesting stuff.

[Johnny Kleso]

What are you making that you need to use wood?

Is there no way to use metal All Threaded Rod and Nuts???

[Ben Cadotte]

If I remember the Woodright tv show had an episode on how to make large screw cutters. Not sure if they have videos you can access. If the amazon thing doesn't work out. Might try and find that episode. Have you tried a post in the Neanderthal forum?

The Woodwrights shop. #2406 Episode description: An ingenious hand-cranked device for making giant wooden vise screws and nuts.
Have not found how to get the video though.

http://woodwrightsshop.stores.yahoo.net/24wothcu.html

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

http://tinyurl.com/4fb2hj
Sorby to the rescue
They even have video of it in use: http://tinyurl.com/5x9pxt

It's an old nearly lost skill that bears some revival.

[Ben Cadotte]

Ok found the episode I watched online. The Woodwrights Shop episode 2704. Shows how to make it.

http://www.pbs.org/wws/schedule/video.html

Seasons 26 and 27 are available online line through a Real player.

[Don Bullock]

Here you go with a Fine Woodworking article:
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ToolGuide/ToolGuidePDF.aspx?id=2007

Here is a tool for the job:
http://www.fine-tools.com/gewind.htm

This book may help:
http://www.amazon.com/Making-Screw-Threads-Wood-Holder/dp/1861081952

Beall Wood Threader Kit Review:
http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/bealthrdrvu.html

[Jerome Hanby]

Shoulder and tail vises. I've just got an itch to make wooden versions:rolleyes:


What are you making that you need to use wood?

Is there no way to use metal All Threaded Rod and Nuts???

[Jerome Hanby]

I've been all over the Internet and called several PBS stations trrying to get that episode :confused: I've got his book, but while it shows some photos of what may be a machine like that, he doesn't discuss it at all...


If I remember the Woodright tv show had an episode on how to make large screw cutters. Not sure if they have videos you can access. If the amazon thing doesn't work out. Might try and find that episode. Have you tried a post in the Neanderthal forum?

The Woodwrights shop. #2406 Episode description: An ingenious hand-cranked device for making giant wooden vise screws and nuts.
Have not found how to get the video though.

http://woodwrightsshop.stores.yahoo.net/24wothcu.html

[Jerome Hanby]

That looks like the episode that matches up wioth the chapter in his boof. Thanks for the link!!!!


Ok found the episode I watched online. The Woodwrights Shop episode 2704. Shows how to make it.

http://www.pbs.org/wws/schedule/video.html

Seasons 26 and 27 are available online line through a Real player.

[Jerome Hanby]

Thanks for the information. I just checked that book back into the library. It's got some great information. The part that would be useful to me concerns chasing threads on the lath. Unfortunately for me it appear to require some touch, definitely not my strongest attribute.

If that tool site is the one I'm thinking about, they must make those cutters only when ordered...out of PLATINUM:D

I've considered buying one of the Beall devices and using it as a model to build a bigger version, but that still leaves me needing a tap.


Here you go with a Fine Woodworking article:
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ToolGuide/ToolGuidePDF.aspx?id=2007

Here is a tool for the job:
http://www.fine-tools.com/gewind.htm

This book may help:
http://www.amazon.com/Making-Screw-Threads-Wood-Holder/dp/1861081952

Beall Wood Threader Kit Review:
http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/bealthrdrvu.html

[Ben Cadotte]

If that tool site is the one I'm thinking about, they must make those cutters only when ordered...out of PLATINUM:D

I went to the one link. And over 1100 euros for a 2 1/2" cutter :eek: :eek: :eek:

[Alan Schwabacher]

There is another Fine Woodworking article that I've seen in some book that was a collection of articles. That article showed how to make large threads, which is done differently from the smaller ones shown in most of the links so far. One of Roy Underhill's books also shows different approaches to large and small threads, but I don't think he goes into as much detail.

The article in FWW started at the very beginning. You make a rather large dowel, and cut a spiral kerf into it with a saw. A bandsaw with a tipped table to set the pitch, and a stop block to limit cut depth and keep the stock straight is helpful.

Once you have the big dowel with the spiral kerf, you make a block to fit it through, and put in a flat sheet of metal with a curved cutout to fit into the kerf. This allows you to turn the big dowel in and out.

You now fit a cutter to the end of the large dowel, making the cutter extension adjustable. You tap a hole by attaching the block to your workpiece, with the dowel extending through, and turn the dowel through the stock, cutting a shallow groove. Extend the cutter a bit more, and repeat until the female threads are cut. For threads larger than 2" diameter, I think you need to use some sort of gradual increase in cutting depth, and ordinary taps don'e work so well.

Now you can use your tap make a threadbox to cut male threaded parts, using the same approach as for smaller threads.

[Jerome Hanby]

Thats basically the approach in Underhill's book. I've been thinking that the blade in my drill press wing cutter might work pretty well as the blade in that tap and threadbox.

Thanks for that bandsaw tip. I had been fretting over cutting those kerfs. I have the feeling the exact specifics of the spiral and cuts aren't super critical, but consistency is. That band saw method should take care of that!

I was also looking at that Beall threader. I think I could buy one and use it as a pattern to build a bigger version. What I was curious about is the carbide "v" router bit that cuts the threads in the screw. How well do you think it would work as the cutter in the tap? Obviously it wouldn't be spinning (at least without a titanic Rube-Goldbergian effort). After all of typing that, I can't see how it could possibly work, the cutter wouldn't be sharp in the correct locations to cut the entire v-slot unless it was spinning. Maybe i could regrind the wing cutter blade to match the router v cutter...



There is another Fine Woodworking article that I've seen in some book that was a collection of articles. That article showed how to make large threads, which is done differently from the smaller ones shown in most of the links so far. One of Roy Underhill's books also shows different approaches to large and small threads, but I don't think he goes into as much detail.

The article in FWW started at the very beginning. You make a rather large dowel, and cut a spiral kerf into it with a saw. A bandsaw with a tipped table to set the pitch, and a stop block to limit cut depth and keep the stock straight is helpful.

Once you have the big dowel with the spiral kerf, you make a block to fit it through, and put in a flat sheet of metal with a curved cutout to fit into the kerf. This allows you to turn the big dowel in and out.

You now fit a cutter to the end of the large dowel, making the cutter extension adjustable. You tap a hole by attaching the block to your workpiece, with the dowel extending through, and turn the dowel through the stock, cutting a shallow groove. Extend the cutter a bit more, and repeat until the female threads are cut. For threads larger than 2" diameter, I think you need to use some sort of gradual increase in cutting depth, and ordinary taps don'e work so well.

Now you can use your tap make a threadbox to cut male threaded parts, using the same approach as for smaller threads.

[Steve Mellott]

Jerome:

Let me know if you are still looking for a copy of the article in Issue #6. I can scan it and email a copy to you.

Steve

[Jerome Hanby]

I am still trying to get a copy


Jerome:

Let me know if you are still looking for a copy of the article in Issue #6. I can scan it and email a copy to you.

Steve

[Steve Mellott]

Email sent.

Steve