New project started, need some help

[Jason Scott]

Hey guys,

Ok, so I have finally started my hall table as a compliment to my coffee table I just finished. My wife had a special request that has thrown me for a loop and not sure what to to. I originally was going to make the hall table a half moon shape and use bent wood lamination for the apron. What she wants is a cross between a half moon and a rectangle, so pretty much the back will be rectangle and the front will have a nice curve to it.

So I am unsure how to attach the side apron to the front (curved) apron. I thought maybe a miter but then how would I secure the joint. Then I thought maybe a half lap with dowels (which is still what I am leaning towards) but how do you half lap a curved piece to a straight piece? And as I was writing this post I just thought of another option, how about tounge and groove then small dowels to secure? Anyway I hope you all can picture this, if not let me know and I do a quick sketch to show you what I mean, thanks!

jason

[Ray Gardiner]

I think what you want is a bridal joint.

[Jason Scott]

Hmm, not real sure how I would do that, it seems that would be harder then any of them b/c of the curved and straight mating surfaces? I just thought some more about it, and may a miter joint secured with a biscuit would be the way to go?

[Ray Gardiner]

Here is an example from http://sawdustmaking.com/woodjoints/bridal.htm

make flats on the curved bit.

Or maybe I misunderstood the question?

[Jason Scott]

That is an awesome way to attach the legs to the aprons and I think that is exactly what I will do, so thanks! But the orginal question is how to attach the curved front apron, and the side straight apron together where they meet? Maybe I should just make the bent wood lamination so that at the ends there is a straight portion to do the joinery, sure would be a lot easier.

[Ray Gardiner]

Hi Jason,

Is there a leg at the corner? If so mortice and loose tenons would be
best, cutting the mortice in the end of the curved apron will require a
bit of setup time however.

[Jason Scott]

Yeah, I thought about that, good idea too...Not sure exactly where the legs will fall yet, maybe some more planning before trying to figure this out :p

[Jim Becker]

Need more information about the design; particularly the location of the legs. On my bow-front hall table, the aprons all attach to the four legs at the corners using pocket screws and glue. I made a jig for the table saw to cut the ends of the bow front so they would mate "flush" with the legs and the angles were not too extreme to cause any issues with drilling for the pocket screws. Traditionally, there might be an M&T joint used. I went the method I did to avoid dealing with all the angles and a hall table didn't need the "extra strength" of the traditional joint in my mind.

[Frank Drew]

Jason,

Putting the legs at the corners would be the easiest course in terms of the woodworking involved, and IMO also the best choice aesthetically.

If the curve is very shallow you can cut the front curved rail out of solid, which would simplify making a mortise and tenon joint on that rail (cut the joint before cutting the curve out). For a more pronounced curve either the bent lamination you're already considering, or bricklaying and veneering (more stable).

[Brandon Shew]

It sounds like you are trying to join two aprons together w/o a leg or something inbetween? I'm picturing a table that (from the top) looks like a rectangle with a 1/2 moon pushed against one of the long sides. Is that right?

If that's your design, I think that you need to make one continuous apron assuming that you're using 3 legs. You'll lose horizontal strength if you try to join the aprons w/o a leg between.