Help needed using a laser with hollowing tool

[Bill Bolen]

I finally got a laser system mounted to my homemade steel snake for hollowing. (Much like the monster and elbo tool). When using the straight bar and cutting bit going straight into the piece the laser gives me a good reading on depth. My problem is when cutting the interior sides. I readjust the laser to hit the very end of the cutting tip (mounted at 45 degrees to the bit holder). The laser shows that I am about ½” away from the edge. But when I use the calipers to verify this I am down to 3/16” or so. The mounting arm is in line with the boring bar bit holder and the laser is straight over the top of the bit and pointing straight down at the tip. I stopped in time from going though because the sound told me I was getting thin. My question is how to set the laser up to give me a good depth reading for the inside side work? Should the laser spot be move away from the tip by a set amount? I know the false reading is because the laser is hitting a round piece of wood and will show the position at a much higher point on the piece in relation to the actual position of the cutting tip (make sense?) . I believe I read a post by Bernie or Steve about moving the laser point out 3/16” or so from the actual cutting tip. Can’t find the post to re-read. Any pointers are appreciated!…Bill…

[Burt Alcantara]

I strongly suggest renting (http://www.smartflix.com) or buying Lyle Jamieson's "Hollow Forms The Easy Way." In this DVD he explains how to set a laser to the exact thickness desired.

I have been using this method since I got my Monster system.

Essentially, you take a business card and create a simple template that consists of a line from one edge of the card that represents the desired wall thickness. The card is placed at the tip of the cutting edge while the laser is set to the thickness line.

This system is extremely easy to use and works. The DVD has other good information about hollowing in general and is well worth the money.

Burt

[Reed Gray]

I will set the laser pointer at about 1/4 inch away from the cutter for roughing work, and about 1/8 to 3/16 away from it for finish cuts. Also, where you have the pointer set in relation to which part of the curve you are cutting makes a difference. It will be in a different spot for outward curves then it will be for inward curves. It needs to be set at 90 degrees from the part of the cutter that is being used to the wall of your form. Finally, I will check it at the mouth of the vessel (cutter on the wood where I can see the cutter and the wall) to see if where I have set it is where I want it to be.
robo hippy