Slab ends; What sealant?

[Greg Muller]

I just purchased some oak slabs 4" x 10" x 120". They are quite wet- about 16% on the meter. They need to dry a while, but I need some advice on end sealing. I've never bought slabs quite this big that weren't already air or kiln-dried. What should I use to seal them? Is sealing the ends only good enough?

Greg

[Kyle Kraft]

Anchorseal. I'd just coat the ends.

[Richard M. Wolfe]

Greg, your slabs are already partially dried. Green wood usually pegs a moisture meter out and most read up to around 30+%.

Anchorseal the ends and put them in a place where they can dry evenly and slowly. I'm surprised that they haven't cracked yet. Most will say that trying to dry thick oak is a losing battle. Good luck with them.

[Michael McCoy]

Thick oak can be a losing battle but not always. I picked up a small load of freshly cut white oak 2x4's several months ago that pegged my moisture meter. Being pressed for time, the only thing I had available was some Zinser BIN primer that I brushed on heavy. Anchorseal is obviously the best recommendation but surprisingly, not one of these boards has any checking.

[Greg Cole]

Greg of Sherwood. Whoops wrong forum.
Just Greg,
Anchorseal.
Sticker, stack and add some wieght on top for the fun of it.
So the stuff from TowMater is 1/2 dry huh?
I've got to go get mine from him sometime soon, but life has kept me awful damn busy lately.
Nice to know about the MC. I've had decent luck with a Rube Goldberg kind of tarp (lots of duct tape) & dehumidifier set up. If you are pressed for time or patience (like me) it's not a bad way to hustle up the process. I learned it from an uncle who was in a hurry to get some hemlock dried enough to make some ol' fashioned lap siding with.
Can you tell if it's red or white? Todd didn't seem to know. I don't really care, at the price it's a steal either species IMO.
Care to post a pic of your haul?

Greg

[Greg Muller]

Hey Greg,
Yup, about 16%. some more, some a little less. I bought 6 slabs. They all look pretty good, some large nail holes where the dividers were nailed in, but not too bad. It all appears to be white oak. 2 of the boards have some light splitting, but I can cut around that pretty easily. I bought more than what I'll need since I always figure about 20% loss for knots, etc... I don't expect that I'll lose any thickness. They are rail-straight. They are definitely solid. I have plenty of time to let them dry.

I will use 4 for a bench top and the other two will be bedrails- that was the wife's idea- she hates all the squeaking our bed makes...:eek::D

I don't have any pics right now- we are getting a new digital camera for our anniversary (more sqeaking hopefully:p). You are welcome to come see them, though.

Greg

[Greg Cole]

Hey again Greg,
They looked like white from what I'd seen. Was definately hoping they were ..... I MIGHT get down there tomorrow to pick them up. Depends on how lively I am during the Stanley Cup Playoff game tonight. Libations tend to flow when "my" team gets rolling & we're going full steam ahead right now (those that know hockey know what I'm talking about or those who recognize the little avatar thingy). Depends on Mother Nature too, no need to give the sticks a good soaking on the way home.
IIRC I bought 6 as well, but anyway a bit more than needed. But at $20 a stick for 20BF, I'd almost convinced myself to buy them all. Hearing they are very straight is nice, I didn't want to give up too much meat to dog legs per say.

Cheers. GO WINGS. :D

Greg

[Greg Muller]

. Depends on how lively I am during the Stanley Cup Playoff game tonight. Libations tend to flow when "my" team gets rolling & we're going full steam ahead right now (those that know hockey know what I'm talking about or those who recognize the little avatar thingy).
Greg


I love that avatar!
I grew up playing hockey in MN. Unfortunately, when the Northstars left town, I lost a team. Now that I'm here in KC, I still follow hockey, and like the 'Wings, but it ain't the same. Maybe I'll adopt a team and become a maniac again.

Greg

[Brent Ring]

Congrats on the oak. 'Wings fans are all over, even in the west. Go Wings!

[Frank Drew]

...some large nail holes where the dividers were nailed in.

Greg,

What dividers? Are these reclaimed lumber?

As other have said, just the ends need sealing and if you can't find Anchorseal there are various other green wood sealers available, called just that. Sooner rather than later is better.

And as Greg Cole said, take some care in stacking your boards; if they're not laying flat they might not dry flat, even 16/4 stuff like this. A little air movement is good, direct sunlight not so good.

[Jack Camillo]

Anchorseal
but don't waste gas going to the borg. I walked around over an hour the other day looking for it (could have sworn I saw it there when I didn't need it), went to the customer service desk, the paint aisle, the construction section, the lumber section (no specific order) and talked to six associates and a manager. All were dumbfounded, all asked what the heck it's used for, and shrugged. Then I remembered - I actually saw it at woodcraft, but that's a thirty-five mile drive one way... hoping my timbers don't crack until i can drive up there.

[Jacob Reverb]

I wouldn't spend 2 wks ordering or looking for Anchorseal...I would coat the ends with whatever you've got -- paint, whatever -- today. Anything is better than nothing. If you get Anchorseal in the future, by all means, slather it on top.

I would also loudly second the opinion that you want WEIGHT -- a LOT -- on top of the stickered pile. AMHIK. Good luck.

[Fred Voorhees]

If you don't feel like tracking down anchorseal.....let me tell you something that an old gentleman that knew his stuff about wood did to seal the ends of the rough sawn lumber that he sold. He sealed the ends with simply parrafin wax. He would heat the wax until it melted in an old pot and then coated the ends until it took no more wax. When I tell you that his lumber had ZERO checks and splits, I am fully confident that I am 100% correct. I purchased oak lumber from him for years until he retired and this guy sold top notch stuff. Parrafin wax....trust me - it works.

[Frank Drew]

Fred,

I'm sure you're right that parrafin wax is effective -- the green wood sealers that I've used are, after all, just waxy emulsions. The ready made stuff is more convenient, though, particularly when you're out in the woods or at some remote sawmill.

But anything you slather on that slows down moisture loss through the end grain is better than nothing... wax, paint, shellac, commercial sealer, etc.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

I have some left over cheapo Latex on some maple I have drying out side. The wood did check but nothing like it might have without the paint.

[Ray Moser]

I have used left over latex paint (liberally applied) on ash, butternut and catalpa. I waited a couple of days after the trees were taken down and most of the surface moisture was gone from the ends. The wood was milled a few months later and I still have no checking on any of the wood. The trees were taken down in Sept. '99 and milled the following November.