Questions about 32mm & 1-1/4 systems

[Phil Thien]

I'm fascinated by the 32mm system. If I understand it correctly, I can space 5mm holes 32mm apart on my cabinet sides, and use the holes for not only hinges but also shelves and drawer slides.

I have a few questions.

(1) I've searched Rockler/Woodcraft/Lee Valley for 32mm and I do find jigs (at Lee Valley) and hinges (everywhere). BUT, I don't see drawer slides. So how do I know how far apart to space the front/rear sets of holes so I can make drawer slides fit if I want to outfit a cabinet with drawers instead of doors/shelves? I'm new to all this and I've never installed a drawer slide but I'd like to, so I don't know if drawer slides come in standard depths with holes drilled for 32mm increments or what?

(2) I've read there is also a 1-1/4" system. This appeals to me so I can avoid working in metric (which is okay, but I just feel more comfortable with imperial). If I go with a 1-1/4" system, are there hinges/drawer slides available, or am I going to have a harder time finding those than the 32mm system?

Any input would be appreciated.

[David DeCristoforo]

First read this:

http://32mm.dalrun.com/System_Design/Introduction.html

The attachment hole spacing for drawer glides varies from one manufacturer to another so you have to get those specs from them. But the front line bore is always 37 mils from the finished front edge for full overlay designs.

[Bill Neely]

Here's another resource originally posted by Frank Shic:

http://www.cabsystems.com/KISSII/KIIrivIe-mail.pdf

32mm is just about 1 1/4" but I bit the bullet and bought a Fastcap metric tape and a metric steel rule. I'm getting comfortable with the system - I like it because there aren't any fractions to deal with.

As David said the slides aren't uniform but the front set of holes is always 37mm in. Accuride has several slides that use 32mm mounting holes including the 3732 and 3832. You drill your back line of holes to accomodate the last system (32mm) hole of the slide. The specs for the slides give the hole locations. I mount the slide to the front and back holes then use a 5mm self centering bit to drill the rest of the mounting holes. All the Euro slides mount with 32mm spacing.

You are right, the drawers go in perfectly aligned and that's sweet. I make a little jig to drill the holes on the drawers themselves.

Hinges are much less complicated. :)

[Phil Thien]

32mm is just about 1 1/4" but I bit the bullet and bought a Fastcap metric tape and a metric steel rule. I'm getting comfortable with the system - I like it because there aren't any fractions to deal with.


What do you use for drilling the 5mm holes on 32mm centers? Veritas makes a jig. Kind of spendy. I was thinking of making something myself.

[Steven Wilson]

Festool 1010 router and LR32 32mm guide system rails.

[Bill Neely]

What do you use for drilling the 5mm holes on 32mm centers? Veritas makes a jig. Kind of spendy. I was thinking of making something myself.

I bought a two line jig from J & R Enterprises which is about $150 but others work just as well if a little slower.

Woodhaven has a nice jig set that's not too expensive, even though it's set up for the fixed distance of 37mm you should be able to turn it over, put the alignment pin into a hole and pivot the jig 90 degrees to locate the back hole line then drill them. I'd buy an extra alignment pin - I'm sure you'd be able to figure out a way to use it. I've got the self centering drill, it cuts clean holes.

You can build your own if you have a drill press. If that interests you I can give you more information.

Good luck

[Rob Wright]

I have done a fair amount of reading on the 32mm system and just a little building of sys cabinets so far. I had started out wanting to use the BLUM Sys32 - but the "handed" panels kind of turned me off from that system. I read all the dalrun stuff as well but it lacked the details that I was wanting. Frank Shic pointed me to the KISS II from "knob and pulls" and combined with the great info in the Blum Sys32 manual, you can get a good picture on how to make unhanded sides and doors.

I ended up making four full size templates in 1/2" Baltic birch ply of a cabinet side for a 34.5" cabinet +/- in a 12inch, 18-inch,21-inch, and 24-inch cabinet depths (these are for a separate toe kick to be built first then place the boxes on top of). The Blum manual will help you with the correct spacing of the holes from front to back and what holes are used for what.

The full size panels are drilled using the KISS II spacing and are drilled for a 5/8" PC template guide bushing (the short one that used to come with the standard half blind dovetail jig.) I clamp this to a cabinet side that has been cut to length, and use a plunge router, the PC bushing, and a 5mm plunging spiral to make all of the system holes. This really only takes a minute or two to complete per cabinet side. These are great since they are unhanded and after breaking down the sheet goods, I can really move on the carcase construction. You can get all of your sides cut and plunged pretty fast and not have to worry about the cabinet width.

Templates can be made using this:

http://megproducts.com/basic-bore32.html

or you can just use this jig. I found it easier to just make the full-size templates.

-Rob

[Phil Thien]

Thanks Rob, I think that is pretty much exactly where I'm headed.