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View Full Version : Arbor flange tuneup = huge improvement



Tom Henderson2
05-26-2008, 1:31 AM
Good evening everyone.

I had gone through my old mid-sixties Craftsman contractor saw and cleaned/lubed it, installed a Delta T-2 fence and aligned the blade to the miter slots as well as installing machined pulleys and a Fenner link belt.

All of this improved the cut quality a fair amount. But it seemed like it could be better. In particular there seemed to be a lot of blade wobble during start and coastdown.

Turns out the arbor flange was not square to the arbor shaft. I measured 0.003 to 0.004 wobble at the flange and ~0.018 out at the blade rim. No wonder the wobble was so obvious.

Fortunately the arbor shaft was straight -- less than 0.001 runnout.

So I removed the arbor and had the face of the flange trued up by a machinist and reinstalled it with new bearings. Now I measure less than 0.001 of wobble.

It makes a HUGE difference! The wobble is imperceptable, the cut quality is noticeably better, and the saw seems to even sound quieter.

All in all it was a pretty easy job to remove and reinstall the arbor. The hardest part was finding a machine shop that would take such a small job. I finally found friend-of-a-friend that had a research lab at his work and he was able to true it up for me one Saturday.

So if any of you ever do a full-up table saw recondition and measure a lot of runnout at the arbor flange, take the extra effort to get it trued up. The improvement will be worth it.

-Tom H.
Ventura, CA

Bruce Wrenn
05-26-2008, 10:23 PM
I usually true up the face of the arbor with it still mounted in the saw. A 45 degree support block and a piece of scrap with sand paper on it will do this. One day when I have nothing else to do (yeah right!), I might build a fancy jig with a screw mechanisim to advance block with sand paper on it.

Kirk Poore
05-29-2008, 11:55 AM
I trued up mine in place, with a dial indicator, a fine file, and a felt tip pen. I set up the dial indicator such that it was reading the flange face. It was out by .007 at the worst point as I turned the arbor. I marked the high point, rotated the indicator out of the way, and filed the high point down. When I measured again, the high point wasn't as high, and it was now a small arc. I marked the start and end points, then repeated the filing process. I kept at it until I got it down to .001. Total time was about 45 minutes.

Given the ease of doing this, I recommend anyone try it this way first. I don't see how you can mess it up, but if you're not satisfied with the results you can still take it to a machinist.

Kirk