Method for Making Bow Saw Handles

[Ray Gardiner]

Here is a method for making bow saw handles. It's cheap and pretty simple.

1. Drill and tap the handle blank for 3/8" Accuracy is not important.
2. Glue in some 3/8 brass threaded rod with CA or epoxy.
3. Setup in lathe, with live centre on tail stock.
4. Turn handle as desired.
5. File off threads, with a flat file using remaining thread as a guide.
try to keep constant diameter on the brass.
6. Cut off excess brass rod.
7. Hacksaw slots for saw blade and pins.
8. Round tip and clean up on a disk sander.
9. Sand and buff to finish.

Whoops, I only got 5 pics before it said uploading is disabled?

[Ray Gardiner]

Here are the rest of the steps.

[George Sanders]

Nice handle. You make that look so easy.

[Dave Anderson NH]

Hi Ray,

Your method is similar to mine with one change. You can buy most common sizes of 360 brass in rod form from MSCDirect.com and not have to file the threads off. Local hobby shops also often stock and sell short lengths of brass rod, MSC's unfortunately are 6 foot lengths.

[harry strasil]

wooden file handles make good bowsaw handles, and they have a metal ferrule taboot, I use the round brass stock, thread the end that goes in the handle and also thread the inside of the handle for aways, then silver braze or soft solder a brass washer to it as a stop/spacer. stain and seal the handle.

[Ray Gardiner]

Hi Ray,

Your method is similar to mine with one change. You can buy most common sizes of 360 brass in rod form from MSCDirect.com and not have to file the threads off. Local hobby shops also often stock and sell short lengths of brass rod, MSC's unfortunately are 6 foot lengths.

I checked out MSCDirect.com They have some good stuff, a lot cheaper than what I paid. I wonder what the shipping costs would be...

The 3/8 threaded rod cost $12 for 2ft from Bunnings (A hardware chain, that has taken over from all the smaller hardware stores that used to sell
"real" stuff). So I should get at least 4 handles, works out to $3 each.

Anyway, the idea behind using threaded rod, is to do a couple of things, first the handle is tapped to 3/8 so the rod screws into the handle, and with a bit of CA or epoxy it is never coming out. Then using the rod to
chuck the work and turn the handle, it is exactly concentric.

Second, the hole in the frame is drilled to suit the finished size of the rod, which is smaller than the threaded portion so the tension is taken on the shoulder where the handle starts. So, there is no load on the handle/rod
join anyway.

I should probably put a 5/16 brass washer over the rod between the handle and the frame, I couldn't find any when I was making it.

I know they are around here somewhere....:)

[Michael Faurot]

When you file off the threads, with the hand file, is the lathe turning the piece? If so, are you doing that at a slow RPM?

[Ray Gardiner]

When you file off the threads, with the hand file, is the lathe turning the piece? If so, are you doing that at a slow RPM?

Lathe running at 1000 RPM or thereabouts, same speed as for turning.
Just file away as you would normally, push down slightly on the forward
stroke and lift on the way back, and work along watching the thickness of
the remaining threads. Takes about 2 minutes. Then smooth it out with 120.

(I did stop it to take a photo however)