Fred Kogler
05-25-2008, 4:29 AM
This little project is a compilation of things: Harvesting red cedar, using Cedarshield for the first time, and turning red cedar for the first time.
First of all I've been reading through the discussions about the use and methods of drying wood that has been home field harvested.
Part A. I've end coated many blanks of half sawed pieces with Anchorseal and am waiting for a couple of months to see what happens. I'm a little over 4 weeks into that trial. Several of the blanks cut at the same time and harvested from the same tree but not sealed with Anchorseal have dried and show so many checks or cracks that they are unuseable for turning. This batch has been drying out side, covered only wth a loose fitting tarp.
Part B. I've harvested, but not halved several logs about 8" x 18" long. These are of what appears to be soft Maple. I have Anchorsealed both ends and stored them inside my garage undisturbed for about 8 weeks. The ends show little or no checking, although I can see what appears to mold growing on the wood side of the Anchorsealed ends. I plan to cut and halve this wood around July 1st.
Part C. I've procured 5 gallons of CedarShield in order to compare it to the Anchorseal. As far as price is concerned Anchorseal wins hands down, that I know, but I wanted to see the difference in turning, warping and checking characteristics of similar woods, cut and halved at the same time and left to dry the same period of time. Until I find a suitable source for my wood of choice, unspalted, freshly cut white birch, I have worked with some aromatic red cedar that a friend, near Hudson, Wisconsin provided.
First I cut the wood in the field one day, hauled it home and left it in my van overnight. The next day I liberally soaked the blanks I had made the day before with CedarShield. (I noted that some of the pieces of day old blanks had begun to check as they sought moisture equalization.) After a thorough double application of Cedarshield at about 70 F I left them dry for 72 hours...then I turned my first bowl thusly treated. See picture. There was little warping, only two small checks, and the wood turned very easily, as though it were still wet...there were several minutes of steam vapor rising as I worked on the very heart of the bowl. Having turned the sides to the finished thickness, I returned to the garage and reapplied liberal coats of CedarShield...left the bowl drip dry for 48 hours. then I returned to the lathe to do the finish work. I found there was some warping, but not enough to render any problems with fine turning and sanding.
I sanded and then sealed the bowl with the Crystal Coat I use for pen finishing. We'll see happens.
If anyone has similar experiences, or suggestions, comments etc., let me hear from you.
Fred Kogler
First of all I've been reading through the discussions about the use and methods of drying wood that has been home field harvested.
Part A. I've end coated many blanks of half sawed pieces with Anchorseal and am waiting for a couple of months to see what happens. I'm a little over 4 weeks into that trial. Several of the blanks cut at the same time and harvested from the same tree but not sealed with Anchorseal have dried and show so many checks or cracks that they are unuseable for turning. This batch has been drying out side, covered only wth a loose fitting tarp.
Part B. I've harvested, but not halved several logs about 8" x 18" long. These are of what appears to be soft Maple. I have Anchorsealed both ends and stored them inside my garage undisturbed for about 8 weeks. The ends show little or no checking, although I can see what appears to mold growing on the wood side of the Anchorsealed ends. I plan to cut and halve this wood around July 1st.
Part C. I've procured 5 gallons of CedarShield in order to compare it to the Anchorseal. As far as price is concerned Anchorseal wins hands down, that I know, but I wanted to see the difference in turning, warping and checking characteristics of similar woods, cut and halved at the same time and left to dry the same period of time. Until I find a suitable source for my wood of choice, unspalted, freshly cut white birch, I have worked with some aromatic red cedar that a friend, near Hudson, Wisconsin provided.
First I cut the wood in the field one day, hauled it home and left it in my van overnight. The next day I liberally soaked the blanks I had made the day before with CedarShield. (I noted that some of the pieces of day old blanks had begun to check as they sought moisture equalization.) After a thorough double application of Cedarshield at about 70 F I left them dry for 72 hours...then I turned my first bowl thusly treated. See picture. There was little warping, only two small checks, and the wood turned very easily, as though it were still wet...there were several minutes of steam vapor rising as I worked on the very heart of the bowl. Having turned the sides to the finished thickness, I returned to the garage and reapplied liberal coats of CedarShield...left the bowl drip dry for 48 hours. then I returned to the lathe to do the finish work. I found there was some warping, but not enough to render any problems with fine turning and sanding.
I sanded and then sealed the bowl with the Crystal Coat I use for pen finishing. We'll see happens.
If anyone has similar experiences, or suggestions, comments etc., let me hear from you.
Fred Kogler