Compressor In Need of Parts

[Pat Germain]

I picked up a used compressor today. I hope to use it in my shop, but it's in need of numerous parts. I looked around on a website called chpower.com. Since the parts are missing, I don't have part numbers. I do know it's a twin cylinder with a 240V motor. I'm going to try calling next week to see if they can help me.

As near as I can tell I'll need at least the following:

- Power cord
- Regulator
- Switch
- Condensate filter
- Inlet filter

I'm hoping I just didn't buy a headache. It seemed like a nice compressor. What do you guys think? Anyone have any other suggestions for parts? Or, am I likely going to end up spending too much for an old compressor?

Thanks.

[Chris Parks]

I picked up a used compressor today. I hope to use it in my shop, but it's in need of numerous parts. I looked around on a website called chpower.com. Since the parts are missing, I don't have part numbers. I do know it's a twin cylinder with a 240V motor. I'm going to try calling next week to see if they can help me.

As near as I can tell I'll need at least the following:

- Power cord
- Regulator
- Switch
- Condensate filter
- Inlet filter

I'm hoping I just didn't buy a headache. It seemed like a nice compressor. What do you guys think? Anyone have any other suggestions for parts? Or, am I likely going to end up spending too much for an old compressor?

Thanks.

All those parts should be universal and not peculiar to that machine. Most air fittings use universal fittings for attaching filters etc.

[Steve Flavin001]

likely made it. As mentioned by the other note, the cord is certainly a std hardware item as are a few of the others but C-H will undoubtably take care of you - you went to the right place, stay there. No, I don't think you got a bad deal based on what you mentioned - they're minor parts as long as the compressor itself is OK.

You will need the model and/or ser No off the machine when you call them.

[Gene O. Carpenter]

Make sure that you have a "pressure relief valve" or a "Pop off valve"! If the pressure operated "on-off" switch should fail "closed" that "PRV" or "POV" will relieve the excessive pressure that would result from that "on-offswitch" failure...
There's probably a "manifold" that screws into that hole in the tank and the above mentioned parts would be mounted to that part..
Check and maintain the proper oil level and smell the oil to see if she was run hot..

[Pat Germain]

Thanks for the info, guys. It looks like I'll have to order everything a la carte. I was hoping for a kit of some kind, but all the parts I see listed are individual. I'll go ahead and ask anyway. I'll be sure to include a pop-off valve. I certainly don't want to rupture the tank!

I've seen compressors like mine for selling for $250 elsewhere. That leaves me a pretty good margin before I hit that selling price.

[Pat Germain]

This morning I called Campbell Hausfeld to ask about ordering the missing parts for my compressor. Man, was that an adventure!

First, a very nice woman, who speaks English as a first language, answered the phone right away. I explained my situation. She took the model number, noticed I would require multiple parts, then transferred me to technical support.

At Tech Support, a very nice guy, who speaks English as a first language, promptly answered the phone. I explained my situation. He knew exactly what parts I'd need and quickly gave me the part numbers and a price for each individual part. He also told me I could buy some of the basic parts at my local hardware store. He then had to transfer me back to the parts department.

I then talked to a third Campbell Hausfeld rep. She too had the audacity to answer the phone almost immediately. She too was very pleasant, polite and helpful. I gave her each part number which she quickly found and repeated the price and a description. The total was surprisingly reasonable. Then came the shipping charges. Uh oh. I was bracing for the worst: a whopping $10.00.

I tell you, I don't know where these Campbell Hausfeld people get off providing helpful, courteous service and maintaining inexpensive parts for old compressors. It's certainly not very nice to make those overseas manufacturers look so lackluster.

Seriously, I don't have a problem with overseas manufacturers or foreign workers. But I have to admit, it was sure nice to deal with Americans who spoke English in my dialect. And I didn't even have to press 1 for English!

I do know the next time I'm in the market for a compressor or a power washer, I'm going to buy a Campbell Hausfeld. Even if the price is a little more, it's very reassuring to buy a product with such outstanding customer support. I felt like I had been transported to 1970.

[Greg Narozniak]

I have the Exact same compressor. Bought it almost 10 years ago from HD as a return for $75 and I have had ZERO problems with it. I only had to add the air intake filter. Change the oil and you should be good to go.

Enjoy your new purchase. and shoot me a PM if I can help with anything.

[Jack Vines]

Hi, Pat,

Be sure to copy your post to CH Customer Service. Good service needs to be recognized. Also point out the creek gets thousands of potential customers through here.

thnx, jack vines

[Pat Germain]

Good idea, Jack. I'll be sure to post my compliments on the chpower web site.

[Joe Jensen]

Wow, it's great to find that pockets of excellent service still exist...joe

[Gene O. Carpenter]

Pat,
While you're waiting for the CH parts to arrive check your local auto supply stores for an "automatic drain valve kit",,Harbor Freight also has them on sale occasionally.. It won't cost that much and will virtually put an end to having to get down on hands n knees to drain the condensate out of the tank....
Some people say drain daily and if it's a high humidity area and a high usage compressor then yes do it daily, and the auto drain will be a God-send!
If it's high humidity and comp gets used on weekends then drain when you shut comp off..which you should do when you're not around and/or not using air!

[Pat Germain]

Thanks for the tip, Gene. I looked at the drain valve kit on the Harbor Freight web site. How does it install? The drain valve on my compressor is on the bottom. I don't think there's room under there for that big valve. :confused:

Edit: I found a web site describing the installation of this automatic drain valve. In this case, the author bought the Harbor Freight valve which turned out to be junk. He replaced it with a borg valve which worked fine.

http://www.rvplane.com/pdf/CompressorAutoDrainValve.pdf

[Gene O. Carpenter]

Pat,
I've owned 6-7 comps in the last 50 years and they all had a drain valve mounted on the bottom, usually hard to reach but they were there!
There should be a 1/4" or 3/8" and possibly a 1/2" welded in and threaded fitting on the bottom, could be either end or centered.
Mine were always toward one end and I would place a piece of 1" Pine under both feet/legs on the opposite end..That way any condensate ran toward the drain..
If your tank is too low cut a couple lengths of 2X4 and place under feet/legs on each end. You might even add a length of 3/4" Pine to the one on end opposite your drain valve..
In high humidity areas and with heavy usage you could easily get a pint of condensate( depending on comp head size and tank capacity)..
I have a moisture trap on each of my 4 drop lines which I have to empty on occasion and a word of caution on draining a moisture trap..Some cheaper, older moisture traps had to be either unscrewed or were clamped on with a band clamp and to drain them you have to either bleed tank pressure down to "0 LBS" or shut that line down and relieve the pressure..Otherwise if you're able to turn the container while it is presurised, notice I said if YOU'RE ABLE to turn it! The pressure binds the Lexan/Phenol container threads to the body threads, but IF you do remove the container while under pressure you will definitely be the 1st to know that you did a bad thing!
The newer ones have a brass drain cock or a "wiggle valve", in that you just push sideways on the rubber covered nozzle and the pressure blows the condensate out..
You might want to capture anything that comes out of the system as it could be pretty "yuckkkky"..

[Pat Germain]

I received the parts I ordered from Campbell Hausfeld yesterday. That was fast. And exactly everything I ordered was in the box. Good on ya, Campbell Hausfeld.

Since the power cord was completely missing, I had some trouble figuring out how to wire the motor. I posted a question about this on another thread which was moved to the Workshop forum. As usual, The Creek came through and the compressor is up and running! I hope it's OK, but I'm posting the results below which I also posted in that thread:

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That compressor is sa-weet. It pumped up to 125 psi in no time, then shut itself off. The switch came calibrated perfectly. I connected an old air grinder I have from years ago. It zipped right along wide open with the pump keeping right up and keeping the needle just under 100 psi.

What really surprised me is this compressor really isn't very noisy. I think most of the compressors I've heard over the past few years must have been oilless models.

It was a lot of effort, but it was worth it. I actually like tinkering like this. I had to order many parts of Campbell Hausfeld. I also had to buy assorted fittings and a hose at my local BORG.

FYI, for the power cord, I bought a 12 gauge, 3-wire extension cord at the BORG. I cut the connectors off, connected an L60-20 plug to one end and wired the other to the switch. This was less expensive than buying 12 gauge wire by the foot.

I bought a BORG moisture filter which severely limits the airflow. That's going back to the service desk tomorrow! In case you're tempted to pick one of those up for your compressor, don't bother.

One more thing. The pump and copper line going into the tank get very hot! Is there supposed to be a heat sink of some kind on that copper line?
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