exotic wood for an exterior door?

[Mark Vaughn]

any suggestions for exotic woods that would be suitable for a front door that would be subjected to the usual front door abuse?

[Jim Becker]

Mahogany is a time-honored favorite for this purpose. While it's not extraordinarily "exotic", you can really get some very nice figured mahogany that will be interesting. To keep the cost down, you could laminate 1/4" "veneer" of the figured material to plain mahogany where the faces show.

[Chris Padilla]

Sky is the limit on this one, Mark, I think. Jim mentioned the traditional/classical wood to use but typically, you want a very stable wood or one that is properly dried and stress-free so it doesn't move much on you. Properly finished and cared for over the years, it ought to serve you well.

Personally, I'd love to see a mesquite door!

I believe my own front door is made from vertical grain fir but after 15 years, the finish is coming off the bottom of it (not sure what finish it has) but overall, it still looks good.

[Richard M. Wolfe]

Chris mentioned a mesquite door. A friend in a neighboring town who primarily did mesquite flooring did a number of things (furniture, counter tops, etc) using mesquite and other native woods A pretty elaborate mesquite entry - door, transome, sidelights - could fetch five figures. What makes mesquite a good wood for a project like this is its stability and lack of seasonal movement. Plus the grain and aging gracefully.

Exotic to me doesn't mean it has to be imported from half the globe away. An exotic can be a domestic that is appropriate for the job that's not normally seen or used a lot.

Why don't you make it out of live oak? That way it could withstand siege cannon. :D :D

[Frank Drew]

I'm not familiar with mesquite; availability is an issue to consider with any wood not commonly sold at retail.

I like Jim's suggestion of mahogany, but only the real stuff, Honduras mahogany. I'm not sure how weather resistant the other "mahoganies" are, but Honduras is one of the most durable woods there is.

You've got to consider how much weathering your door will get, meaning sun and rain. Any wood can get bleached out by full exposure to the sun, and most finishes that get a lot of direct sunlight, even those with some built-on UV resistance, will degrade over time, which lets in moisture (staining, movement, decay, etc.). So a north facing door that's sheltered from the rain will look better for a much longer time than one that faces south and is right out there in the elements.

[Chris Padilla]

Chris mentioned a mesquite door. A friend in a neighboring town who primarily did mesquite flooring did a number of things (furniture, counter tops, etc) using mesquite and other native woods A pretty elaborate mesquite entry - door, transome, sidelights - could fetch five figures. What makes mesquite a good wood for a project like this is its stability and lack of seasonal movement. Plus the grain and aging gracefully.

Ooooohhh!!!!! That demands some pics, Richard!! Well, if you get the chance, that would be very nice to see!

[Peter Quinn]

A few things about entry doors as I understand them:

1) No exterior wood door is maintenance free. Maintenance is part of the equation when considering a wood door. Accept it or accept a man made alternative. Some finishes last longer than others, and good old paint seems to be the most durable protection exposed wood can get, but I'd guess you don't want to bury 'exotic wood' behind paint?

2) Protected doors last longer than exposed doors. If you don't have protection in the form of a soffit, porch or portico it may be worth expanding the scope of your efforts to build one of these features into your design. It will go a long way towards extending the life of your new door. How long would you last exposed to the elements naked?

3) Doors are not that hard to build. Plenty of beautiful doors can be rendered with out expensive shaper cutters or other special equipment. You can do it, the creek can help! (The borg on the other hand will be of little value to you in this endeavor!):D

As far as species, I agree with Richard completely on this one. I'd define exotic as anything not common place, and that leaves plenty of beautiful domestic species as well as those from foreign lands (like Florida in my case!)

Here's an incomplete short list of species I'd consider. Perhaps others can add to this for you:

Black Walnut, Quarter Sawn or Rift sawn White Oak, Live Oak, Cypress, Pecky Cypress, Doug Fir (reclaimed old growth), Jarrah, Jatoba, Honduran Mahogany, Peruvian Walnut, Teak $$$, Morado $$$, Black Locust, Koa, Pernambuco $$$, Sapele, Eucalyptus, Spanish Cedar, Redwood, Reclaimed Chestnut $$$, Pecan, Bocote, Iroko, etc.

Any of those suit you?

Next question, Construction Method. Solid wood? Stave Core? Solid Lamination? Timber strand Core? Raised Panel? Flat Panel? Bolection Molding?

[Richard M. Wolfe]

Sorry, Chris, you'll just have to take my word for it. I saw the door under construction and all I know after that is it got installed somewhere in Dallas. :o

Another teaser....which means I can't supply pictures. I talked to a cabinet/finish carpenter in a neighboring town some months back and he said the prettiest door he ever made was from bois d'arc (osage orange). The wood ages from brilliant yellow to brown but he said when the sun hit it it had beautiful golden highlights. I can't imagine what the thing weighed or what it took to install.

[Paul Girouard]

Madrone maybe , Hondo Mahog , maybe Khaya ( African Mahogany)

Here's a few doors done by memebers of the Whidbey Island Wooodworkers Guild.

http://www.whidbeywoodworkers.com/images/cschwager/christy%20northwest%20indian%20design.jpg


http://www.whidbeywoodworkers.com/images/cschwager/kelp%20door.jpg


http://www.whidbeywoodworkers.com/images/bschwager/bruce-door-bodines.jpg


http://www.whidbeywoodworkers.com/images/bschwager/bruce-door-partridge-point.jpg

[Steven Hardy]

You asked for exotic....well, I have seen some in person and it could be expensive to get.......but here here are a couple.
(Wood harvesting in the Philippines is tightly controlled now due to deforrestation and resultant mud slides.)

Kamagong is an extremely hard wood found only in the Philippines; it is a wood that some say is nearly indestructible. In ancient times, this wood was used to make weapons such as knives and swords. The scientific name of this tree is Diospyros discolor Willd (Ebenaceae). It has grayish or mottled sapwood and black heartwood with brownish streaks. Kamagong in its pure black form is one of the five most rare woods in the world.
or
Narra, the scientific term of which is Pterocarpus indicus, is the hardwood noted for its ability to take a high polish. Narra comes in varying colors: the heartwood varies from pale yellow to deep blood red while the sapwood, which is usually narrow in mature trees, is lighter. Narra is moderately hard and heavy, with a distinct cedary or camphor-like odor. Its popularity, utility, aesthetic value, hardiness, tolerance and history made it the unanimous choice as the Philippines' national tree.

http://www.kikaysjunk.com/rusticfurniturewoodspecies.asp

[Jeff Wright]

I see you are from Memphis, so you may get your share of hurricanes as do I living here on the Gulf of Mexico in Florida. I just had a beautiful front door made from what was called Brazilian Oak, stained with a walnut stain. The door is rated to hurricane standards meeting the Dade County Florida code for hurricane doors. It is four feet wide, 2 1/2 inches thick and mounted on four ball bearing hinges. The outer glass is the hurricane glass while the inner glass is a decorative Frank Lloyd Wright design. It was NOT a job I was willing to tackle due to the hurricane code issues and the weight of the door. The local manufacturer/installer is well respected in these parts. It cost over $5,000, but I am convinced it has added twice that or more to the value of the home. It makes quite a statement.

[patrick ramsey]

Peter read this item and noticed your mention of Eucaliptus as posible choice for doors. I live in a location called Topanga Canyon CA. Between Malibu and the San Fernando valley. I have access to lots of Eucaliptus trees. I didn't know it was a wood workable wood. Are there some species which are and some not? If so where can I find out which are workable, and what its chacteristics are?

[Peter Quinn]

Peter read this item and noticed your mention of Eucaliptus as posible choice for doors. I live in a location called Topanga Canyon CA. Between Malibu and the San Fernando valley. I have access to lots of Eucaliptus trees. I didn't know it was a wood workable wood. Are there some species which are and some not? If so where can I find out which are workable, and what its chacteristics are?

I am not an expert on wood in general nor have I actually worked with Eucalyptus other than to assemble an outdoor shower I bought made of some member of the species that has weathered quite nicely. It had that distinctive smell when new and a waxy quality to the boards. I was more offering food for though on the subject. I do work in a millwork shop and do make doors frequently. I understand Jarrah is a type of Eucalyptus commercially available (though admittedly not near me) which is suitable for out door building, and that there are plantation grown versions raised in Brazil called by the trade name 'Lyptus' that may be any of a variety of sub species which are available in the US. All of the exterior doors made by the shop I am at have been either black walnut, SA Mahogany, or QSWO, maybe one made of teak some time ago too. SA Mahogany is the most popular choice by far. Perhaps a check with a local millwork shop or custom saw mill might offer more information about the particular native species in question's workable properties?

[Michael Donahue]

As far as finishing, what if you could have an auto body shop paint it? That clear coat has to be pretty durable.:confused:

[Mike Parzych]

One of the primary considerations for a solid wood door is the exposure of the entryway. Full southern exposure is the worst since the sun will cause problems, or at lest high maintenance, for just about any type of finish. Eastern and western aren't so bad. Full northern exposures tend to be the wettest since they never get full sun, and you have to deal with the moisture.

With any all wood doors ball-bearing hinges are a must since they'll be pretty heavy.

[Bill White]

As I live in the Tupelo, MS area, I know what weather we both share. Think twice before committing to a wood door. I have one now 'cause I have a very deep front porch. New home will face West and not have the large overhang. Steel will be in that puppy.
I finished the existing fir door with various stains, glazes, and 5 coats of a water based exterior poly with good results. Been up 1 1/2 years with no fading, checking, etc. Finished all edges the same way.
Bill

[Chris Allen]

Here's a pic of a mesquite front door. I like it.

[Greg Robbins]

Here's an article by Jim Kull who knows a lot about finishing that you may be interested in.

In a recent post my friend, Steve, made reference to my tests of doggie sprinkling on exterior finishes. I figure after almost a year of testing it is time to post some interesting discoveries.

As a preface, allow me to set the stage. Almost daily there is a posting about clear, exterior finishes for doors, chairs, signs and such. Responses run the gamut from diehard marine finishes to apply a coat of primer and then paint. Each of these has a bit of a problem. Marine finishes are not always the easiest to find and it grieves me to think of a lovely oak, teak, mahogany, fir, redwood or similar nice wood door painted in mauve goop.

Bob from Fl inspired me with his continuing and accurate statements about the failings of a clear coat and the advantages of a good quality exterior paint. I decided after lots of reflection that he really was right but there was always the picture of mauve in my mind. Sooooooooo, how could one take advantage of his advice and yet capitalize on the beauty of a nice wood.

I began to reflect on the characteristics of paint. Now, comes the boredom.

There were several things I knew about paint. Exterior paints contain a mildewcide and a fungicide that a varnish does not. The best quality paints will contain a UV protectorant and trans-oxide pigments in very high percentages. Almost all paint is custom mixed by the store. The retailer maintains a large supply of base products that are used to achieve the desired color. There are generally 4 base products and the specific one for your paint is determined by your color choice. These base products are either named or numbered. They are named pastel, deep, tint and neutral. If numbered it is cleverly 1, 2, 3 and 4 with the exception of Olympic who numbers 1, 2, 3 and 5. Olympic is unaware that 4 comes before 5. Pastel and/or 1 is virtually a pure white and used for the lightest of colors. The others are slightly color altered from white and more translucent than pastel. These are used for succeedingly deeper colors. All of this comes to neutral, 4 and/or 5. These are clear and used for the darkest colors. In the can they are somewhat opaque but dry more or less clear.

Now comes the testing. I bought 4 oak exterior doors. Each door was given one coat of the same MinWax Stain. On 3 of the doors, I applied 2 coats of "base" to the 6 sides of each door (3 coats on the top and bottom edges). Each of these three doors had a different type of exterior neutral, 4 or 5 base. The fourth door was finished with a consumer "spar" varnish from my local friendly paint/hardware store. The bases for the 3 painted doors were an exterior semi-gloss acrylic, an exterior semi-gloss oilbased polyurethane floor paint and a semi-gloss oilbased trim and siding paint.

The doors were set up, slightly inclined, in mostly direct sunlight under a pecan tree in the backyard. My wife just loved that one. Daily, the sprinklers managed to hit the doors. The birds in the pecan tree used the doors for target practice. And, yes, the dogs did anoint the doors on a regular basis. My blonde Cocker, Zazu, was particularly enamored with the doors. Over the course of the test the doors experienced lots of Texas sunlight, rain and snow. The temperature went from below freezing to over 100. The advantage to the inclined position of the doors was the snow, ice, water from the sprinklers and the rain tended to collect in the raised panel areas. I feel these doors were subjected to far more severe environmental conditions than would be expected from normal use.

The results were interesting. The "spar" varnish looked fabulous but after about 2 weeks it began to develop small cracks. In rapid order the door began to turn black, started to mold and the smell was enough to knock a buzzard off of a manure wagon. The waterbased acrylic is milky in the can like a waterbased poly. It dried to a more or less water clear surface but was a bit cloudy. It tended to wash out the stain a bit. Over time it became cloudier and ultimately become almost white. But, it remained solid and protected the wood. The oil based bases are also a bit opaque in the can but dried to a clear finish that is almost identical to a spar varnish - they added an amber tone to the doors. Both the oil based poly floor paint and the oil based trim and siding paint remained "clear" over the entire test period.

The testing came to an end with a bit of encouragement. My wife said something clever like, "Get those damned doors out of the backyard?". She does not understand science. The floor poly had some minor checking and a thinned coat of the same base over the surface made that disappear. The door with the oilbased trim and siding paint was perfect other than it had lost a bit of the gloss.

So, I am with Bob - paint the door. My preference is the oilbased products. If you are predisposed to a waterbased use an acrylic rather than latex.

One thing you will find when you go out shopping for your product is a lack of knowledge on the part of the salesperson. Not many of these folk are aware that their neutral or 4 base will dry clear. If you want to have some fun, spring it on them. They will suggest you are full of Donkey Dust. Ask them to shake a can and put some on a stir stick. Dry it and voila, it is clear.

Jim Kull

[Neal Clayton]

Sky is the limit on this one, Mark, I think. Jim mentioned the traditional/classical wood to use but typically, you want a very stable wood or one that is properly dried and stress-free so it doesn't move much on you. Properly finished and cared for over the years, it ought to serve you well.

Personally, I'd love to see a mesquite door!

I believe my own front door is made from vertical grain fir but after 15 years, the finish is coming off the bottom of it (not sure what finish it has) but overall, it still looks good.

chris beat me to it ;).

mesquite is too short a tree for many architectural details (there are not many, if any, 15 foot long mesquite boards from what i've seen), and even enough length for a door will be very pricey, but it looks fantastic. plus it's very weather resilient as others stated so a proper wood to use for such a thing.

[Jim O'Dell]

There was a thread a few years ago, IIRC it was here at the Creek, with a Mesquite entry way. I tried doing a search, but found nothing. I remember it being extraordinarily beautiful. Wish I could find it again. Jim.

[Chris Tsutsui]

FYI and gloat: When you pull off curves, then it makes it that much more unique. :o

These are door projects from several years ago. I have to give credit to my friend and former business partner on these. Sadly enough he quit contracting over a year ago due to the economy so you won't see his level of craftsmanship anywhere... instead, you'll see mine. :D

http://www.flex-innovations.com/door1.jpg

http://www.flex-innovations.com/glueups2.jpg

http://www.flex-innovations.com/curves.jpg

http://www.flex-innovations.com/doortop.jpg

[Christopher Pine]

I took a class on door making at the local trade school, which has an excellent woodworking program and the instructor taught us how to make the core out of birch laminated together then a laminated layer on the outside of your wood of choice. I made one out of red oak and it worked very well. You use about 1/4 to 3/8 inch think exterior veneer and used a large vacuum bag in the glueing process. This makes a very stable door.
It is not finished as I have all the parts and just need to do the glue up and of course finish it.
good luck.

Chris