Simplest Router Table Extension

[tom holton]

Well the new TS shows up tomorrow and after spending 4 weeks trying to come up with a router table extension I dont think I am any further than 4 weeks ago. Problem is I am not sure I really want it there. I need an extension table and my saw is coming with 50" rails so it only makes sense to start there and see how it goes.

Here are my issues:
I have a PC 690 and I just got a Milwaukee 5616-24 combo. Do I dedicate the PC to a table, or use the more powerful Milwaukee.

Than comes the plate. I dont want to spend a ton on a plate if I am not sure what router should go there. Or i might by a dedicated router down the road.

Then comes the plate again, do I really need a plate with multiple inserts. Am I going to need template bushings in it?

Can I accurately rout out the opening without screwing up my top...

reading about david marks setup, he use a 3" torsion box with laminate top. easy enough. I cant figure out what he is using for a ring setup?

Anyone help out this Novice.

I think the best plan is to make a simple top, and mount the router to it directly. Will this only cause me headaches?

Tom

[Rick Dohm]

Don't know if it will work for you, Tom, but I have a Delta X5 with 50" Biesmeyer and I put a Bench Dog cast iron router table extension on the left side. I put in a Rousseau plate with changeable rings. Since I used a Triton router, I didn't need a lift. Works great for me. Guess it also depends on what you plan to do with it.

Good luck with whatever you choose.

Rick Dohm

[mike wacker]

I'm in the middle of putting together a Router table. After much research I fanally settle on using the Jessem plate/lift. They make a straight plate which is pretty cheap like $60 if I recall. Then the intermeadiate life that takes PC690 sized router bodies and lastly the Master lift that is basically designed for PC7518. All of these plate are available in identical demensions so you can up grade to a different plate and still use the same top.

After diggin thru the manuals for jessem's plate I found instrctions on how to cut the hole for the plate. You need a 1 1/2 in pattern bit to mach the 3/4 radius on the plate corners. Then using some care create a pattern with 3/4 inch MDF in the shape of an H with two cross bars. The lift/plate should fit snuggly inside the pattern. Clamp the pattern to the table top with the hole exactly where you want it. A plunge router works best here. If this isn't clear let me know and I'll try and take some pictures after the weekend.

[tom holton]

Thanks for the idea, but I forgot to mention one thing. If I spend another $50 wife is giong to kill me...haha. The saw, a router combo, a planer, and a few other things in the past month...

TOm

[Jim O'Dell]

Yeah Tom, I'd say you maxed out your tool budget for the time being.:D Since you aren't sure what you will be doing for the long haul, I'd make a simple extension/router table that you can use no matter what, and try it for a while. You can always upgrade/rebuild better later. Even if you used 2 layers of 3/4" MDF and sealed the top for now, you wouldn't lose much if/when you rebuild. If you have the materials to do a Torsion box all the better.
As far as which router for the table, I think most will agree that the more powerful one should be there. I don't know the features of the Milwaukee 5616-24 combo, but I'm guessing part of the combo is a plunge base. Especially if there is a way to do above the table adjustments with that one, use that base in the table. You can always pull it out for other work if need be. Use the 690 for hand held work.
And for a template for routing, make 2 L shaped pieces that are true 90 degrees and one side of each is the same length as the length of the plate, and you can push them up tight against your plate so that you have a pattern. Secure those together then clamp where you want the hole to be. Use the pattern bit size the plate manufacturer says (My Woodpecker uses a 5/8" to match the corner radius) test the depth of cut to match the thickness of the plate and your good to go. If later you decide to not use the extension table as the router table, you can always cut a piece of MDF to fit the hole, and use it just as an extension table. Have fun!! It's only wood (or wood by products!:p) Jim.

[Greg Hines, MD]

I would suggest dedicating the fixed base for your Milwaukee under the table, and then use the PC for smaller jobs, and keep the larger router for both table and hand work too.

You mentioned Marks and his set up. From what it looks like, he made his inserts out of either plywood or MDF, and they snap into a rabbet in the top.

The router plate that I use for my PC890 is a Rousseau plate, with snap in rings. It was not terribly expensive, and works well. In your situation, it sounds like something like that would be a good idea for you. That leaves you with the ability to get a more expensive plate and lift in the future.

Doc

[Steve Clardy]

Ditto the lighter weight PC for hand work.

[Brian Weick]

It's matter of trial and error and what your comfortable with. I have experimented with certain shop projects and if it's not going to cost that much to start off, then by all means - go for it. Then, if you need to change things , you still have the platform to work off of , you just need to do some modifications to it. It would be no problem, if you so desired, to insert a lift on to that table ~ if you want to. Start off with the flush mount and see what you think, maybe for what you want to do ~ it's perfect, and it very well may be, but - with all applications using the router table, there is changing the profiles? That is where the lift is a blessing~ If you have a Rockler location or fine wood working store in your area~ go check them out~ Little pricey , but with ease of operation change/operation and stability of the setup , it was well worth every dollar, several dollars actually~LOL . Anyways~ if it works for you ~ stay with it! everyone has there own desired wood shop setup and machine set up applications :)
Brian